Bullfrog A7 getting heater may be dry, heater too hot after running for ~20 minutes, shuts down

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It is strange that both behave the same. Generally failures don't occur in tandem when the systems aren't predicated on each other.

But the spa is used, and is a bit older. So it's hard to apply the same rule.
 
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I am getting quotes on 2 pump replacements. You all have been fantastic and much appreciated. I am still concerned for some odd reason this won’t fix the problem, mostly because it does seem odd both pumps would have the same issue. I guess the amperage test is the leading indicator but really hoping it’s also the circuit board somehow.
 
Venicetub said:
but really hoping it’s also the circuit board somehow.
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If you've got too much money I know some people who can help you with that. PM me for details. 😉🤣
phonedave said:
Do you want the left handed or right handed one?
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Every cub knows you need both! How you gonna stretch a wire from just one end? 🤣
I figured you knew about the wire stretcher. 😉🤫😎
 
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Methuselah said:
When ya get the wire stretchers, canya pick me up a bucket of Ohms?
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The hardest I ever laughed was during a service stop when a guest told us the pool was too hot and we said we'd adjust it. As the tech I had with me began pouring chlorine into the pool she exclaimed, "Wow I can already feel it! Is that 'coolant'?"

I thought about it for 4 seconds and laughed out loud.

That's not even how 'pool coolant' works. ;)

Or any coolant... :ROFLMAO:
 
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Venicetub said:
No, but as we get closer to the expensive job of replacing the two pumps I get more and more nervous that somehow this won't fix the issue... just a weird situation overall
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You could always replace just the filter pump first. Give that a solid run using all the prior circumstances to try and get it to stall. If it fixes the issue, you're assured you did good and you can order the 2nd pump at your leisure.

But, if somehow the pump behaves the same and it's actually the PCB, then you can replace the board for roughly the sum you would have spent on the 2nd pump.

You'd then have a new pump and new board and a spare motor if the 2nd ever went.
 
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Venicetub said:
No, but as we get closer to the expensive job of replacing the two pumps I get more and more nervous that somehow this won't fix the issue... just a weird situation overall
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It is a very wierd situation, even to me. But we've tested it, and others have run into this before on this brand, and the tech on site came to the same conclusion. I feel pretty confident.

bradgray said:
replace just the filter pump first.
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This is always an option, and a pretty good one in your case. It wouldn't work for me on the job, but on your own tub it's great.
 
RDspaguy said:
It is a very wierd situation, even to me. But we've tested it, and others have run into this before on this brand, and the tech on site came to the same conclusion. I feel pretty confident.


This is always an option, and a pretty good one in your case. It wouldn't work for me on the job, but on your own tub it's great.
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Good news all. The pump repair went well. Think we are good to go…

Last remaining issue to getting the tub to 100% is getting the bromine to read. Had this issue before. Had to drain and refill. Then had about 3-4 tabs in at a given time. Repair guy said that was way too many for a 500 gallon tub and I have 1/2 tabs in there with the feeder closed off to about 1/4 inch (per his recommendations). I did the granules on startup and have also done renew but still no reading! The strips work (they worked previously for bromine reading) and the water is clean! So it’s being sanitized. Any ideas?
 
Venicetub said:
Good news all. The pump repair went well. Think we are good to go…
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Congrats. Glad you're getting better results!
Venicetub said:
Then had about 3-4 tabs in at a given time. Repair guy said that was way too many for a 500 gallon tub and I have 1/2 tabs in there with the feeder closed off to about 1/4 inch (per his recommendations).
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Repair guy is wrong. Bromine tabs dissolve very slowly. You will need multiple tabs available and exposed to continue to keep your bromine levels present and oxidized.
Venicetub said:
I did the granules on startup and have also done renew but still no reading!
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Confirming the granules you are reffering to are Sodium Bromide?
I don't find the Leisure Time products to be the best. Try using regular bleach as your oxidizer if you want to go Bromine.
Venicetub said:
The strips work (they worked previously for bromine reading) and the water is clean! So it’s being sanitized.
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if you want to use strips occasionally, order HACH AquaChek 7-ways. But keep in mind strips are not as reliable or accurate as reagent kits.
Venicetub said:
Any ideas?
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Switch to chlorine. 😉
It's easier to manage, less quick to dull, and easier to recover from overuse. Also usually cheaper.
 
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bradgray said:
Congrats. Glad you're getting better results!

Repair guy is wrong. Bromine tabs dissolve very slowly. You will need multiple tabs available and exposed to continue to keep your bromide levels present and oxidized.

Confirming the granules you are reffering to are Sodium Bromide?
I don't find the Leisure Time products to be the best. Try using regular bleach as your oxidizer if you want to go Bromine.

if you want to use strips occasionally, order HACH AquaChek 7-ways. But keep in mind strios are not as reliable or accurate as reagent kits.

Switch to chlorine. 😉
It's easier to manage, less quick to dull, and easier to recover from overuse. Also usually cheaper.
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So more tablets and open the feeder more? He was saying it will be corrosive over time to the parts if I have 3 or so tablets in there exposed. Yes. Sodium bromide
 
Venicetub said:
So more tablets and open the feeder more? He was saying it will be corrosive over time to the parts if I have 3 or so tablets in there exposed. Yes. Sodium bromide
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He's right.... but "over time" Bromine lowers the pH so it will be a bit corrosive, but that's at high levels. if you have 10 in the tub till you get a reading and remove the other 9, you'll be fine. (ps. don't use 10)
 
Bromine tablets, like stabilized chlorine tablets, are acidic when they dissolve in water. However, many of the tabs are manufacturer with baking soda or borax in them to help reduce the acidity. You should be keeping a close eye on your TA as well as your pH if you are using tablets. You’ll want to maintain a higher TA level to compensate for the acidity.

If you use the bleach/liquid chlorine activation method, then your pH will not be affected as much. In this case, you’ll want the TA to be lower to avoid rapid pH rise.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Bromine tablets, like stabilized chlorine tablets, are acidic when they dissolve in water. However, many of the tabs are manufacturer with baking soda or borax in them to help reduce the acidity. You should be keeping a close eye on your TA as well as your pH if you are using tablets. You’ll want to maintain a higher TA level to compensate for the acidity.

If you use the bleach/liquid chlorine activation method, then your pH will not be affected as much. In this case, you’ll want the TA to be lower to avoid rapid pH rise.
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Okay so in order to try to get the bromine levels reading again I should again add:

- sodium bromide
- renew
- and increase number of tablets to around 3 and open up the feeder more?

He was saying the large number of tablets are why the bubbles were fizzing when jets were at high speeds
 

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