Bought Circupool RJ-60+ - contemplating options for install

[reefpool]

Hi everyone. Non-expert here hoping to install the RJ-60+ on my ~45,000 gal pool and could really use some help. I've already bought the unit and I did some measurements and found that I don't have enough linear space at present on the return line to do a linear installation (I have 14" linear, and it requires 15+. The reason I'm short on horizontal line is because there are some awkward turns glued in as the return goes into the ground. To correct this and get more linear space I woudl have to cut the pipe below ground level. My options as I see them:

1) horizontal install - get the line that feeds into the heater out of the way, then cut the return line below the ground and install a fresh pipe. Do the same for the waste line (cut below ground, install fresh pipe and get it out of way). Of course, these cuts are below ground, so the pool would need to be drained (a little? a lot???)

2) vertical install - just get the line that feeds the heater out of the way and then install the circupool swg vertically. This just seems so much more practical from where I am today. However, I'm worried that the vertical install will be a big impedement to flow with 4 90 degree turns in short order. Is this a bad option??

In either case, I believe I also need to install a one-way valve to protect the heater so I added a box for that also. Is that sufficient protection?

Experience base, FYI: I have done some of the plumbing, which is why it is not looking too fantastic. Despite that, I had someone do some plumbing before me and their pipe burst so I had to fix it. I do not have a trusted Houston local pool plumber unfortunately. We do have a regular plumber, not sure if it would be appropriate to call him out for help or not. I think this is all doable for me, but the speed at which the glue dries can be a real challenge and I've been off by a degree or two before and have had unions leak! All this to say, I'm quite nervous about a horizontal install given the "Tip" in the install guide: "Glue one union first, then when gluing second union use Cell body to gauge the final distance nee between each union; make small adjustments to second union's slip connection while glue is still wet". --> is this some very slow drying glue? I know the red hot blue glue is super fast!

Thank you for your advice.
rp

 

[markayash]

I would try and come out of the heater and go up and over and back to the return.
My thoughts are “if” you need to look at the cell or clean it it will be hard to get to where you have it marked.
It might take a few creative turns but could probably use the same return pipe.



PVC plumbing is like legos, plan it out and glue it together.

My weakness is my brain doesn’t think ahead for parts. I just start building my design and realize 3/4 in I am short a elbow and have run back to homedepot.

 

[Texas Splash]

I agree with your pic notes. That waste line is in a bad spot. There's more than one way to go about your install, so take your time planning it out. Some owners have opted to install their SWG vertically as well, so that's an option.

 

[Newdude]

Congrats Reef !!!!!

+1 with Pat. There are many ways to plumb it and you'll be the one looking at it forever so stand there mumbling for an hour and come up with several ways. Sketch them all out and then pick which one will work best long term for easy access / future repairs.

The flow switch needs to be on a leg that can only have flow with the SWG and needs to have 'up flow' when going vertical.

You don't need a check valve for the heater, a SWG doesn't leech acid like a tab feeder.

 

[reefpool]

Thanks, guys. I went out for the great contemplation and I really do think I have to do that line cutting and bring these pipes up above ground level to start working with this system. Going up and around the other line attached to the heater is not really workable since then I'd block the electrical box. Going under and around and I'd be getting too close to the heater ventilation. So I think the best path is that below ground cutting to bring both the return and waste line up. I think I'd just drain below the skimmers and maybe have to put something to block the pool drain. Might be tricky to get in place, maybe a very heavy frisbee with a rubber gasket could do it?? Otherwise I have to drain a lot of water to get below the level of the cuts I'm making.

I didn't realize I didn't need a check valve- that's good information and saves me work!

Quick question on the salt. The table says I need over 1000 lbs of salt. Does that sound right for the 45000 gallons? Is there a good bulk salt option to save money on this? I read you can't compromise purity. Also, how important is the calcium hardness level and TDS in the pool? I haven't tested those in ages. Finally, can I go ahead and add the salt, or I shoudl get the install done first?

Thank you so much, I'm getting closer here.

 

[Texas Splash]

Quick question on the salt. The table says I need over 1000 lbs of salt. Does that sound right for the 45000 gallons?

As an example, if you had a zero salt level right now and needed to increase the salt to 3,000, it would take 1,130 lbs. About 28 (40lb) bags. However, always test your salt level first. Years of liquid chlorine and other products can increase your saline level, so you may not need that much.

 

[PieterS]

And to add to @Texas Splash - go ahead and start adding it slowly anytime. You don't need to wait until your install, no problem having salt in there. That way you can creep up on it slowly too and not over-shoot.
It'll be a bit of a pain with such a large pool and so much salt, but ideally once you're at the right level, you'll just need to add a few bags here and there.

 

[Newdude]

+3 on testing salinity first. It can easily be half of your target and you'll overshoot by a mile.