As the title suggests we moved states to the western mountains of NC and bought a pool that came with a smallish house.
Pool - inground L shaped vinyl 36,000 gallon, 2 skimmer baskets, a third skimmer converted to a vacuum line and a main in the deep end (diving board), Pentair Intelliflo 3 HP variable pump, 2" lines on the main and skimmer (but the skimmers have 1.5" return pipes in the bottom) so I assume 1.5" and a 1.5" vacuum return with a 32" sand filter. All lines have valves so I can control flow. I run skimmers and main open with vac closed unless I use it. The pool is inhabited by two teens (boy and girl), a Dad (me) and a collegiate D1 swimmer Mom plus as many friends that we meet that accept pool invites...
I have the previous owner's HTH 6 way test kit. It's like $20 or less. He definitely did things on the cheap. Should I continue to use to or get a TF-100 kit?
I have a pool company around the corner and they open and close for $200/open or close. I think I'm good with that cost given the labor and size of the cover. Thoughts?
Two main questions I have at present. I've been reading a lot and discovering there's a lot to maintaining a pool and a lot I don't know.
How long and what RPMs to program my pump?
I do not have flowmeter and really do not know my total dynamic head for gallons per minute calcs. I only know RPMs and max flow rates of a 2" line (Main) and a 1.5" line (skimmers) which gets me to about 110-115 GPM. I've read a 32" sand filter has a max GPM of 110. So if my max GPM is 110 and I have 36,000 gals I should get one turn in 5.45 hours running max flow. What is max for my set up, 3,000 RPMs - more, less? Is the RPM and GPM relationship linear, if I ran the pump at 1500 RPMs would it take twice as long to turn the pool? Any suggestions? I reprogrammed to:
7-9am - 2500 RPM
9am - 4pm 1500 RPM
4-6pm 2500 RPM.
I used to bring samples to pool store last year (we closed on the house last August) and he said I had way too much Chlorine. They could read up to 10 ppm (I think was 10 ppm, but 10 is the number at any rate). I have an inline canister chlorine holder that I feed 3 oz pucks. The previous owner added 4-5 every Thursday and Sunday! The pool store convinced me to turn down the dial and add less chlorine to bring it down to a target of 3. I got algae within the week. I had to shock etc... We struggled and struggled and by adding more chlorine and higher flow rate got it back to good then closed it mid Oct. This year I'm running 2 pucks of 3 oz chlorine in the canister and the dial for delivery rate is 1/2 open. No algae. We've been away and not using the pool heavily and I may not add any more chlorine this Sunday. Under heavy usage the 2 pucks are nearly gone, little usage I see 4 pucks in various deteriorative states. According to my tests I have about 10 ppm chlorine, maybe more as the visual indicator tops out at 10. I checked my cyanuric acid last night and it's approx 75-80. TFP says 40 is the target. The only way to lower is pump out and add water back. So, that's not an option for me. The TFP calculator says target 6-11 chlorine with a CYA of 75-80. Am I OK running a 8-10 on chlorine with a CYA of 75ish?
By the way, we drain the pool 1/2 way in the fall and when we open the pool is full from rain/snow over winter.
Thanks in advance,
Derek
Pool - inground L shaped vinyl 36,000 gallon, 2 skimmer baskets, a third skimmer converted to a vacuum line and a main in the deep end (diving board), Pentair Intelliflo 3 HP variable pump, 2" lines on the main and skimmer (but the skimmers have 1.5" return pipes in the bottom) so I assume 1.5" and a 1.5" vacuum return with a 32" sand filter. All lines have valves so I can control flow. I run skimmers and main open with vac closed unless I use it. The pool is inhabited by two teens (boy and girl), a Dad (me) and a collegiate D1 swimmer Mom plus as many friends that we meet that accept pool invites...
I have the previous owner's HTH 6 way test kit. It's like $20 or less. He definitely did things on the cheap. Should I continue to use to or get a TF-100 kit?
I have a pool company around the corner and they open and close for $200/open or close. I think I'm good with that cost given the labor and size of the cover. Thoughts?
Two main questions I have at present. I've been reading a lot and discovering there's a lot to maintaining a pool and a lot I don't know.
How long and what RPMs to program my pump?
I do not have flowmeter and really do not know my total dynamic head for gallons per minute calcs. I only know RPMs and max flow rates of a 2" line (Main) and a 1.5" line (skimmers) which gets me to about 110-115 GPM. I've read a 32" sand filter has a max GPM of 110. So if my max GPM is 110 and I have 36,000 gals I should get one turn in 5.45 hours running max flow. What is max for my set up, 3,000 RPMs - more, less? Is the RPM and GPM relationship linear, if I ran the pump at 1500 RPMs would it take twice as long to turn the pool? Any suggestions? I reprogrammed to:
7-9am - 2500 RPM
9am - 4pm 1500 RPM
4-6pm 2500 RPM.
I used to bring samples to pool store last year (we closed on the house last August) and he said I had way too much Chlorine. They could read up to 10 ppm (I think was 10 ppm, but 10 is the number at any rate). I have an inline canister chlorine holder that I feed 3 oz pucks. The previous owner added 4-5 every Thursday and Sunday! The pool store convinced me to turn down the dial and add less chlorine to bring it down to a target of 3. I got algae within the week. I had to shock etc... We struggled and struggled and by adding more chlorine and higher flow rate got it back to good then closed it mid Oct. This year I'm running 2 pucks of 3 oz chlorine in the canister and the dial for delivery rate is 1/2 open. No algae. We've been away and not using the pool heavily and I may not add any more chlorine this Sunday. Under heavy usage the 2 pucks are nearly gone, little usage I see 4 pucks in various deteriorative states. According to my tests I have about 10 ppm chlorine, maybe more as the visual indicator tops out at 10. I checked my cyanuric acid last night and it's approx 75-80. TFP says 40 is the target. The only way to lower is pump out and add water back. So, that's not an option for me. The TFP calculator says target 6-11 chlorine with a CYA of 75-80. Am I OK running a 8-10 on chlorine with a CYA of 75ish?
By the way, we drain the pool 1/2 way in the fall and when we open the pool is full from rain/snow over winter.
Thanks in advance,
Derek