best place to get T-cell

Jul 2, 2014
115
Hudson, wi
It looks like my T-cell has died....seems fitting for this year, main drain leaked and had to be blocked off then my pump cracked in half last week, this may as well go also. It is a few years old so not surprised but it looks like the cell cost as much as the entire unit did when I bought it. Has anyone tied the knock off brands with good luck? Is there anywhere better than other places to get one? I have a Hayward T-15 cell that I am looking to replace.

After some more looking it looks like the t15 is not made anymore....will a 940 work in its place?

Thanks
 
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I have the hayward cell on it's way, I think it was $550.
It is very unlikely that you got a genuine Hayward TCELL940 for $550.00.

Is it a TCELL940 or a TCELL940-W?

The "W" means that it is a warranty replacement cell with a 1 year warranty.

If it is a TCELL940 without the "W", then it gets a 4 year warranty.
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 

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Ebay, some place on the other side of the cities from me so it was only 1 day shipping.

I am thinking my salt may be low, I just noticed we are only using test strips so I just ordered the Taylor kit. I followed the instructions for the install and it seems to acting like the previous cell. I will go through the troubleshooting thing that you posted in a few minutes and report back. Thanks
 
Ok, it's probably just low salt.
a little more background....my pump blew up last week and I am getting used to a VS pump, I think this started acting up becasue I had low flow, and then my salt got low in the middle of adjusting that, so that is what confused me....We are in a drought this year and going through a lot more salt than I ever have from the water evaporating....I am putting water in every day where it used to be every 1-2 weeks and I am not used to losing this much salt.....anyway, like I said, guess I have an extra Tcell now. Thanks for the help
 
Also, is the SWCG powered completely off when the VS pump is off? You need to be sure that the SWCG is completely powered off if no water is flowing through it.
 
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a little more background....my pump blew up last week and I am getting used to a VS pump, I think this started acting up becasue I had low flow, and then my salt got low in the middle of adjusting that, so that is what confused me....We are in a drought this year and going through a lot more salt than I ever have from the water evaporating....I am putting water in every day where it used to be every 1-2 weeks and I am not used to losing this much salt.....anyway, like I said, guess I have an extra Tcell now. Thanks for the help

FYI - Salt does evaporate only the water.
 
Also, is the SWCG powered completely off when the VS pump is off? You need to be sure that the SWCG is completely powered off if no water is flowing through it.
currently it is not....I need to figure out a way to do this better.....and of course I just finished off my garage this spring where I am pulling the power from so I don't have easy access to the wiring.
FYI - Salt does evaporate only the water.
actually does not...but I know what you meant......more than likely some leaking out my main drain that has been blocked off this year or just from the kids using it a lot and water splashing out...not sure, water is cheap here at least, just my electricity.

Overall my pool has been a mess this year, main drain failed, pump failed, liner is near end of life (about 9 years old)....I am trying to keep it going until I can do a full refurb next spring of the spring after....not looking forward to that bill, hoping construction prices come down a bit before then....

Once I figure out the salt/SWCG situation I will need to figure out the power thing....but by then it will be about time to close it up. :(
 

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