Balance new pool water. Help please.

This is the chart people on TFP use to determine FC levels:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

You can use Pool Math to determine how much bleach to add:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

As zethacat said you need to add 69 Oz of 8.25% bleach for now.

When you use Pool Math you need to enter the gallons for your pool, your current FC level (1), your target FC level (3) and the concentration % of the bleach you have (i.e. 6%, 8.25% - this info will be on the bottle of bleach). You can also adjust the bottle size for the bleach you have. Pool Math will show you how many ounces of bleach to add. If you hover your mouse over the ounces indicated it will also show you the amount in cups or quarts, etc.

Turn the pump on and slowly pour the bleach in front of a return line, no need to dilute.

You also plug in your current pH (8.2) and your target pH (i.e. 7.6) into pool math and the % concentrate of the muriatic acid (it will be on the bottle, hopefully it's 31.45%). Pool Math will tell you how much to add (32 oz). You need to be careful with muriatic acid, especially about breathing the fumes. Some people are more comfortable diluting it and some people prefer not to add another step (dilution) in dealing with it. Personally I pour it straight without diluting. Again, pour it in front of a return line slowly with the pump running. I also brush after adding it.

You can do either one first. As Richard said just allow the pump to run for at least a half an hour in between adding the bleach and the acid.

You will need to test FC and pH daily and adjust as needed. You may want to retest the pH a half hour or so after adding the muriatic acid to see where the pH is at since it could be higher than 8.2 but the test only goes up to 8.2.

Once you get that done you can move on to adding some CYA (stabilizer). Just get get FC and pH done for now.
 
I should pick up cyanuric acid as well? Is it ok to add with the muriatic and clorox?



Yes. Granular cyanuric acid (aka stabilizer) should be put into a sock and sit in the skimmer until it is fully dissolved. Squeezing the sock every so often should facilitate the process. It could take up to a week to dissolve. Once you add CYA you should target FC for the anticipated new CYA level.
 
You are learning SO much right now it can be overwhelming. You are doing a great job! Keep it up. In a few weeks it will become second nature knowing what your pool needs.

Keep asking questions and reading ABC of pool school. It takes MANY reads as you learn the stuff for it to really sink in.

Chlorine/bleach-make sure to take some time to price it out at places that are convenient for you. For some it is Walmart's brand Great Value, for some it is Sams 3 packs. For me it is my local ACE Hardware for their chlorine they put in jugs that I got from them that hold 2.5 gals.

Kim
 
It is imperative that you read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

Simply tossing in the ingredients we tell you does not fix your pool. You must understand WHY you are doing what you are doing.

TFP is based on you becoming familiar with pool water chemistry so you understand the purpose of chlorine, acid, etc.
 
Hi there,
...
CYA ? - I tried to this test several times; still able to see the black dot on the bottom and the container is completely filled... now what?
...
I just wanted to point out that, with a freshly filled pool, you should expect CYA to be at 0 -- fill water doesn't contain any cyanuric acid. It isn't like the CH or TA tests, where you would expect to get a non-zero reading from your fill water.

The CYA gets into the pool because you add it to the water, either directly (powdered or liquid stabilizer), or in combination with common chlorinating chemicals (dichlor, trichlor). Thus there is no need to use up CYA test reagents from your test kit until you've actually added some CYA to your new clean water.

You've probably figured this out in the meantime, especially if you've been reading pool school, but I'll point it out just in case there's till some confusion about your initial CYA reading.
 
I would like to add, which is not in pool school anywhere I could find, that you should not store muriatic acid indoors (or even in your garage) or anywhere near bleach/chlorine. Store it outdoors away from anything metal (even your pool equipment) as it has a tendency to cause things around it to rust, and wear rubber gloves & goggles when you're handling it. I even go as far as to wear a surgical mask so that I don't accidentally breath in the fumes. I might get a few chuckles from the wife and kids when I do that, but having a healthy set of lungs is worth the price of admission. :D :D :D
 
Thank you everyone for all the knowledgeable advice, I appreciate the support and information.
Here's the update since yesterday:
I tested the water after adding the muriatic acid-
ph 7.2
fc 2
cc 0
ch 525
ta 180
cya 0 - thanks for the insight regarding the cya (I suspected something to that nature, but wasnt sure- I'm glad you had responded)

I will definitely store the muriatic acid as recommended. Thank you.
I am off to the store to purchase the cyanuric acid. I went to home depot and someone said chlorine stablizer(?) - I realize some terms are interchangeable just want to make sure I'm not getting sold chemicals again that I dont need. lol
Question, is it ok to use the pool with the cyanuric acid in the "sock" contraption? Is it ok to use the pool or wait until all issues resolved. Thank you again for all the help.
 
Yes CYA is chlorine stabilizer. It is perfectly safe to swim while the CYA in sock is in the skimmer. Once you put in CYA, start targeting the new goal FC from pool math. Right now the target with 0 CYA is 3 FC and you have 2 so I would add whatever is needed to bring it to 3 right now. The "goal" in FC shouldn't be regarded as a "top end" it should be considered your target at all times.
 
Thank you for clarifying. So I'll adjust and bring up my FC to 3, as this should be my target and not top end of range.
I had a question still regarding the CH issue- to lower, the PoolMath indicates changing 53% of my water for CH 0 or 100% for goal of 260 - I just changed the water not too long ago, am I missing something? I cant thank everyone enough. :D but thanks again in advance.
 

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You can use your test kit to to run a full set of tests on your fill water (no need to test CYA).

If you haven't checked out the article on Pool Chemicals in Pool School that would be a good read for you. It explains the different names things like CYA can be called and also gives info on proper techniques for adding the chemicals.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/139-recommended-pool-chemicals

Now that you're getting familiar with the Pool Math calculator you can play around with different target settings and see how they affect your CSI. Look towards the bottom of the colored areas of the calculator and you will see CSI automatically calculated for you based on the numbers you input for your chemical levels. Since it seems you probably have high CH fill water you can use Pool Math to adjust other target levels and see what will work best for keeping your pool properly balanced.

This thread might be helpful for you too:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/62181-Managing-high-CH
 
You can manage the pool easily with CH to about 800. After 1000, it gets very difficult to deal with it. I lower my high CH by using pool water on the lawn and using the irrigation water to refill the pool. I also directed a downspout to the pool to collect as much Calcium-free rainwater as I can whenever it rains.

My advice is to just set the target to the current reading and see what the CSI is. It's down near the bottom of poolmath. As long as it's below .5, don't sweat it. Otherwise, you'll have to lower the TA and keep the pH at the lower end of the scale to keep things balanced. Note that CYA does affect it a little, so once you've added that, everything will change.
 
Here's a tip on storing the acid, buy a new five gallon bucket with a lid. A 5 gallon bucket will hold a one gallon jug of acid and the measuring cup. Keeping the lid on helps keep the fumes contained and also allows you to store it outside. Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid's strength is not affected by temperature so no harm keeping it outside. Just don't store it anywhere near chlorine as mentioned before. Acid plus an oxidizer equals an energetic chemical reaction!
 
I would like to add, which is not in pool school anywhere I could find, that you should not store muriatic acid indoors (or even in your garage) or anywhere near bleach/chlorine. Store it outdoors away from anything metal (even your pool equipment) as it has a tendency to cause things around it to rust, and wear rubber gloves & goggles when you're handling it. I even go as far as to wear a surgical mask so that I don't accidentally breath in the fumes. I might get a few chuckles from the wife and kids when I do that, but having a healthy set of lungs is worth the price of admission. :D :D :D
I fully agree with all and a mask as the fumes are pretty noxious, although I don't use a surgical mask as these can allow fumes to pass through. Choose one designed to filter out hydrochloric acid fumes. I use 3M 4277
 
I fully agree with all and a mask as the fumes are pretty noxious, although I don't use a surgical mask as these can allow fumes to pass through. Choose one designed to filter out hydrochloric acid fumes. I use 3M 4277
Thanks for posting this! I was just going to comment that a surgical mask (or the typical cheap disposable mask you can pick up at the hardware store) is unlikely to do much against hydrochloric acid fumes. Those are masks for nuisance dust. There are specific respirator cartridges for specific types of chemicals -- acids, organics, etc. Easy to get more information with Google.

Wearing an mask inappropriate for the hazardous material one is working with can give a false sense of security. You might end up with more exposure than someone who is wearing no breathing protection, and just being ultra careful about not having their face near the fumes.

Oh, and Zethacat -- wearing a respirator for pool maintenance tasks should get you more and better chuckles from the family audience, so there's another plus side to upgrading the protective equipment :p
 
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