Automation on the cheap?

djdonte

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2019
579
Houston, TX
Pool Size
11300
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
I have a 2 gang weatherproof switch box in my backyard. One switch for my waterfall pump and one for the light. I was thinking of getting something like the link below, and replace the faceplate with a waterproof flip open cover. My only concern is the water feature pump drawing too much for the switch. I have an auto timer switch for my bathroom shower fan, and it had a limit for motor loads, but don't remember the amps it listed. This switch says rated for 15A and 1650W. I know for sure the light is under that and no way the pump draws 15 amps. I think its a 1hp whisperflo.


I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of this. Let me know what you think.
 
Pretty poor reviews (I consider anything less than 4.0 on Amazon to be a BIG red flag). It looks like the switches are designed for resistive loads, not inductive loads. Normally the “smart switches” will give you specs on their HP rating as well as full-load amperage (FLA) and locked rotor amperage (LRA). Most “smart switches” I’ve ever seen are only designed for 1 HP pumps or less. So I think you’d get away with the pool light but not the pump.
 
Can you check the rating of the switch currently installed? You'll also need a neutral wire at the box.

If you plan on going this route, get good quality switches from a manufacturer that has been around awhile and offers a variety of switches. If you add additional switches throughout the home, you'll want them on the same app. I have a variety of Kasa TP-link controllers throughout the home, all on the same app. The HS 200 would might work for you. The app is user friendly and I've had no connection issues.

There are a few of us using the Woods WiOn 50054 for pumps. Its also available on Amazon.

Just my 2 cents.
 
 
I would recommend using a reputable company. I use the Leviton version of this switch around my house, and for my pool light. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15S-1BZ-Universal-Incandescent-Required/dp/B01MU9SH77
However, even though it's rated for 15A, I believe the limit is around 1/2HP for a motor due to the inductive power factor.

See if you can find the power factor spec for the pump you're using. Personally I would just try it and see what happens. Worst case, you're out $40 for breaking the switch.
Otherwise you'll need to find a different switch, which probably won't be wifi communication and you'll have to get a smart hub/controller.
 
The 1hp on the motor could be wrong so I need to look again. It has to be 110v though, as I changed the switches when I bought the house due to the box leaking, and they were standard 15amp single pole switches like I have indoors. There is neutral and ground in the box. Will check the motor when I get home.
 
If I had to start from scratch with a simple setup like yours I'd probably grab a used Suntouch off the auction site for 100 bucks (or less). It's no Intellitouch, but it can schedule and control pumps/valves/aux circuits and is already weathertight, UL listed, and has high current relays.

btw - regarding the full load current (FLA) Matt mentioned, a 1hp single phase 120VAC induction motor is about 15-16A FLA. There is a 1/2hp Whisperflo, and that's about 8-9A FLA
 
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The 1hp on the motor could be wrong so I need to look again. It has to be 110v though, as I changed the switches when I bought the house due to the box leaking, and they were standard 15amp single pole switches like I have indoors. There is neutral and ground in the box. Will check the motor when I get home.
Another cheap option is to use the wifi switch to energize a contactor/relay coil. If you have room in the box, and are handy with electrical work, that is.
 
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Its just a 2 gang waterproof box and its nowhere close to my pool equiptment pad either. I'll have to do some more digging.
 
An update: I double checked and it is an Emerson 1801 1hp motor mated to a whisperflo. Its set up for 110V so the listed amp draw is 14.4 amps. I tried to calculate the watt draw but I dont know the power factor. I would guess it is closer to one being a motor? This would put it around 1500-1600w.
 

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