Automated PH and chlorine controls?

[Tallredrider]

Hello folks,

I have a pool that constantly needs some Muriatic Acid to maintain the right PH. I hear that is common with new plaster pools, so not too worried about that. It also has a waterfall that likely blows off some CO2. I generally check the PH twice a week and find it floats to 8.0+ every 3 days. When I add the acid the next day my PH is on the money at 7.6 - 7.8. So I think I have the quantity dialed in pretty well (Thank you, Pool Math!). I do worry that I am getting some fluctuation in PH as I do that, keeping it more constant would be better for my OCD, but I don't quite have it so bad as to add a little acid every day.

I would be happy to check less often and wondered about automating the system. I saw a thread from back in 2019, but couldn't find anything newer. The gurus at the time thought that constant automation was not quite ready for primetime, but a simple automated acid dispenser is often a better option. I am happy to invest in a more pricey automated system, but need it to be reliable so I can more or less forget about it and check things on a weekly basis.

So...Automated pump based system controlled by me vs. fully intelligent system with real time feedback, vs keep doing what I am doing?

 

[PoolStored]

You will find proponents of all three here at TFP. All can and do work, but have varying issues.

Automated and intelligent...you need to maintain the systems and they can and do get crystals over time that need to be cleaned up and tubes replaced.
Intelligent uses ORP. ORP tends to not work with CYA north of about 20-30, so you have to run CYA low.
Doing what you are doing is, well, doing what you are doing.

We don't recommend ORP

By the by, we don't recommend any brand of ORP based control for outdoor residential pool. Hi Jason, I've seen you say that a few times already, but I have not been able to find a good thread on why. I would like to read why you make that recommendation. Can you point me in the right direction?

www.troublefreepool.com

All the ORP threads since 1/1/2020:

Search results for query: ORP

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Tallredrider]

As soon as I hit 'post', I found a nice recent thread with lots of information. But I would be happy to hear more, as it relates to my situation.

I would assume that I would install the acid pump downstream from the SWG? I suppose I will have to read the owner's manual, but just thinking out loud here. I only have 1 little spot after my SWG before it goes into the ground. It seems doable, but isn't located in the best spot on the pad.

Automation for pH control

A very simple DIY wiring hack will prevent the issue but would void the warranty Has anyone looked for or located replacement connectors? I'm thinking your hack from Post in thread 'Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water' Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water But using a male and female...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

How often are you running the waterfall? You can start by reducing that. It really only needs 15-30 minutes a couple times a day to stay clean. If its for mixing a spa maybe a little longer but it doesn’t need to run all the time.

 

[Bperry]

As soon as I hit 'post', I found a nice recent thread with lots of information. But I would be happy to hear more, as it relates to my situation.

I would assume that I would install the acid pump downstream from the SWG? I suppose I will have to read the owner's manual, but just thinking out loud here. I only have 1 little spot after my SWG before it goes into the ground. It seems doable, but isn't located in the best spot on the pad.

Automation for pH control

A very simple DIY wiring hack will prevent the issue but would void the warranty Has anyone looked for or located replacement connectors? I'm thinking your hack from Post in thread 'Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water' Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water But using a male and female...

www.troublefreepool.com

Depending on who’s doing the water testing and what your total alkalinity is, you may not even need automated stuff to reduce your acid demand to once a week. Keep your TA at 50-60 and run your waterfall less will probably get you pretty close.

 

[reggiehammond]

Also when you dose, and are trying to reduce TA (which causes pH rise), make sure you are targeting 7.0-7.2. That gives you the most bang, reducing the TA the greatest, while still having a pH in the 7's (safe and easy.)

If you are at 8.0, and only dose to 7.6, then it takes 2x more additions for the same relative effect.

 

[PoolStored]

reduce TA (which causes pH rise)

Reggie, I know it is not how you meant it, but this could be interpreted as "when you are trying to reduce TA it will cause a pH rise."

For clarity to the OP: Higher TA causes pH rise. Reducing TA will reduce your pH rise rate. At some point, ignoring new plaster causing pH rise, with a TA of 60-80, you will likely find your pH rise will lessen, and likely will find a nice home around 7.8, 7.9, maybe even 8.

 

[Tallredrider]

Also when you dose, and are trying to reduce TA (which causes pH rise), make sure you are targeting 7.0-7.2. That gives you the most bang, reducing the TA the greatest, while still having a pH in the 7's (safe and easy.)

If you are at 8.0, and only dose to 7.6, then it takes 2x more additions for the same relative effect.

I think my goal is to maintain more stable PH. Going from 7 to 8 repeatedly hurts my OCD a little bit. Lowering my PH to 7 sounds like it would put my plaster at risk for corrosion. Getting over 8 puts me at risk for calcium deposition, which my waterfall already has some signs of.

I have my TA on the money at 70.

 

[Bperry]

I think my goal is to maintain more stable PH. Going from 7 to 8 repeatedly hurts my OCD a little bit. Lowering my PH to 7 sounds like it would put my plaster at risk for corrosion. Getting over 8 puts me at risk for calcium deposition, which my waterfall already has some signs of.

I have my TA on the money at 70.

Lower your TA to 60 and see if pH stabilizes around 7.8. If not try going down to 50 on the TA. But don’t go lower than that.

Any pH that starts with 7 is fine. 7.0 is no worse than 7.8.