assistance needed with cutting of pool pipe

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If you cut flush at the join between the T and the feeder, then heat the inside of the cut off stub that is left in the T with a heat gun (or paint some pipe cement in there and light it, that's the ghetto way!), you can work some pointy nose pliers into the join and then twist, and the softened pipe will pull away from the bond and twist up onto the pliers until it pulls away.
@Danjaymor: that's a nice ideal, but reality is the cement is just that. The primer and then the solvent in the cement do start to soften the PVC at the joint, but the cement still forms the bonding layer between the two surfaces and will soften with heat.
I say this from experience as I have done it many times, both old and new joints. Your biggest trouble will be getting the heat in there evenly so you can twist it out without deforming the T.
Good luck!
 
heat the inside of the cut off stub that is left in the T with a heat gun (or paint some pipe cement in there and light it, that's the ghetto way!), you can work some pointy nose pliers into the join and then twist, and the softened pipe will pull away from the bond and twist up onto the pliers until it pulls away.
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Really? I don't think I have ever heard that mentioned on this forum or heard of anyone practicing it. I have always hear that the joint is the strongest, most stable part of the pipe.

Do you have any pics? Here in the US, I think Sched 40 PVC is rated to 300 pounds bursting pressure @ 170 degrees so the 170 temp rating would seem to eliminate a hair dryer being able to break the joint.
 
Been there, done that, but only as a last resort. That's a lot of work to try to save a couple of bucks. I'm not sure what the green cement in the video is, but here is the statement from the #1 PVC cement manufacturer:

http://www.weldon.com/pdf/weldon/BestPr ... _Sep08.pdf


Dave, the pressure rating on Sch 40 pipe is at 70 degrees F. Not 170. Maximum realistic (and recommended) operating temperature is 140 degrees F. Also, the pressure rating on Sch 40 varies with the diameter. As you increase in diameter, the max operating temperature decreases. For example, 2" Sch 40 has a max OP of about 280 psi. 8" Sch 40 has a max OP of 160 psi.

This is not true of your "class pipes" that carry an SDR (side dimension ratio) such as CL 200 IPS or CL160 IPS. With these types of pipe the side dimension ratio is carried throughout the diameter run. Using the same example, with CL 200 SDR21 both 2" & 8" would carry the same exact 200 psi pressure rating. With "class pipe" you can determine the wall thickness of the pipe by dividing the outside diameter of a given pipe by its SDR number, giving you the pipe wall thickness in inches.

In all cases, you will also need to de-rate listed pressure ratings based on the operating temperature of the water. The rough rule of thumb is to de-rate by 20% for every 10 degree increase in water temp above 70 degrees F, up to 140 degrees. Higher than that you better go steel or some other material. Here are the exact temperature de-rating factors:

http://www.jmeagle.com/pdfs/Technical%2 ... sonPVC.pdf
 
I was skeptical of this when I read. I see it was done here, but that was thin wall pipe he removed. I doubt seriously it would be so easy
with Sch 40 or heavier. I also wonder how well it would work with different glue types. Then, doing it in position might be another thing altogether. Neat trick for the right circumstances I suppose.
 
I don't know what sch40 means, here we have class 9 and class 12 pressure pipe, typically 9 is used for irrigation, pools or anything running pump level pressures whereas class 12 is for mains water supply pressure. That trick works well on 9 or 12, and only takes a few seconds. Handy if you are short of a fitting and need to reclaim one.
 
Turns out Aussie class 12 is the same as your sch40. Class 12 refers to 1200kpa pressure rating. When you get the piece out, you can certainly see the bond is better at the end, but none the less it can still be removed. As you said, though, getting the heat to the right place in situ would be difficult.
 
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