Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

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Thanks for the information posted on this forum. I was able to fix my board by replacing the thermistor mentioned in the previous posts, thus saving me valuable money.
Digikey.com as component 570-1062-ND

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SL32 2R025/570-1062-ND/363379

SL32%20SERIES_sml.jpg
 
Hello folks -

Just wanted to post a quick reply and note of thanks for all the information and great advice. I too had an Aqua Rite that was cycling on and off, and this board was a Godsend. I bought the limiter from DigiKey, installed it, reassembled the SWG and am now back in business. Thanks for this forum and for all you who participate. Saved me a bunch of money and stress.
 
Message from Louisiana:
We purchased a home with a pool, and have never owned one. My Aqua Rite box display showed:
0 default
63 water temp
1.4 cell voltage
0 counting up to 21.4 then back down to 0.. then 1.4 cell current
67P
-0
AL-2
rl.55
t-15
After calling the pool company, and water growing algae, we shocked pool, and was told all was ok.
After reading this forum, I pulled front off box, and found the black quarter size Thermistor. Looked ok initially, but someone had said to check for a crack. I looked on the back, and sure enough, there was a circular crack on the back of it. No sign of black marks on front , and back of board.
From Digi-Key web-site I searched for SL32 and was referenced to their item number below.
Item: 570-1062-ND 2.69000 5.38
CURRENT LIMITER INRUSH 2 OHM 25A
I ordered 2 of them for $2.96 each, and chose regular mail delivery. It was at my door in 2 days.
I have never soldered much, but I found a video on u-tube: http://youtu.be/tPL_YnvWumk showing a guy that has never soldered, and his unit was doing the same as mine. Long story short...My part came in...I completely removed the board from the box, noting where everything connected..Board is very well labeled as to white, bray, blue, red, black, yellow, etc..I drew myself a picture just to make sure..fuse looked fine, and did not replace.
I soldered part onto the top of the previous connection area on board. Re-Installed, and turned power back on, and I had a "working" board again!
It now lights up to check salt, and yellow to check the cell, but at least I have saved at least $160 by doing it myself.
I have noticed also that someone is now selling the SL32-2R025's on e-Bay at a fair price, but you can't beat Digi-Key's price, and fast shipping.
Thanks everyone for the black quarter looking item, and how to replace, and save some money. Best forum I have found for pools.
 
First off I'm a little ticked at Hayward/GoldLine for continuing production of such a fault prone design. From the number of people complaining about this, the only justification I can give for this is that they love to sell those $400 boards as a result of their ****** design. So they have no real plans to fix the issue. I have had to replace my inrush limiter once every year.

It probably has something to do with my cell being the biggest the system can handle (T.15 for a 40k pool, I think). It always seems to happen after the first of the year when the pool has been too cold for the generator to run, then I run Super Chlorinate for a full day to catch up. I think this overheats the inrush limiter.

Last year I replace the original AS32-2R025 (DigiKey 570-1105-ND) with a AS35-2R035 (Digikey 570-112-ND). the resistance at full current was a little lower, but not far off and the part was built to run 35 amps as opposed to the OEM 25 amp...

Well here we are at the beginning of another year and I'm replacing the inrush limiter again because of the same reasons...

This year I'm going with a MS series part MS32-2R035 (Digikey 570-1027-ND). Just replace it this morning and everything is back up again.
 
Fronobulax said:
I think this overheats the inrush limiter.
Click to expand...
That is not at all likely. The entire box draws perhaps 2 amps, and it doesn't seem plausible that a part designed for 20 amps would be failing due to a continuous 2 amp draw. It is almost certainly lightning induced surges that burn out the inrush limiter. An inrush limiter is specifically designed to shunt surge currents, and to fail if needed in order to protect the rest of the device from especially large surge currents. The appearance of the damaged parts is usually consistent with very large surge currents, and does not generally match gradual overheating.

If you are trying higher rated parts, look for something with a higher peak current and/or voltage limit, rather than a higher steady state current limit.

That still leaves open the question of why other manufacturers are able to design circuits which generally avoid damage from the same surge environments, while AquaRite either can't or doesn't bother to.
 
If you are trying higher rated parts, look for something with a higher peak current and/or voltage limit, rather than a higher steady state current limit.
Click to expand...

Last year I used the AS series 500-900 Joules.. I think OEM SL series is 260 Joules
Well I went to the MS (Mega Series) part this year (900 Joules across the board). Supposed to be more rugged and handle higher inrush current. Hopefully I won't be back here again next year with another part number... :wink:
 
Thanks for the info. Read this post on Sunday and ordered the part from digi key that day. I got the part about 4 PM today and my Aqua Rite was back up and running by 5PM. Thanks for saving me a lot of money. The part was so cheap I ordered two of them. From all the comments it sounds like I'll need it in a year or two. Getting the old limiter off the board was a bit trickier than I anticipated. I ended up having to actually drill out one piece of the old one. Thanks again.
 
They have added a lot of surface pad to the board since the old pictures I saw, so it takes a good bit of heat to get the part off the board and a new part in. I used a solder sucker, then finished up with desoldering braid. But you will need some heat to get to it. I used a 150 watt soldering gun.

If you use the MS part the pins needed to be shaved a bit to fit into the holes on the board. I just grabbed the leads lightly with a pair of needle nose pliers and rotated the part to scrape off a little surface...
 
Fronobulax, i have the same board as you (with the larger surface pad). I was afraid to use too much heat as the components around it began to get hot. I ended up snipping the posts and soldering the new limiter to the old posts. I hope it maintains a good enough connection and i don't burn down my house! Hooked everything back up and it's working perfectly! Thanks to all for the information and savings.
 
I had a similar problem but it was not the Digi-key current limiter. There are two circuit board relays on the board. After removing the board, I inspected it and discovered a slight brownish tinge behind the top relay. The relays are also relatively cheap to replace albeit a little more involved than the current limiter because there are more points of contact with the board. The relays are Omron and the part numbers are GBP-1C4P and are 24 volts. Here is a website to order from: http://www.newark.com/omron-electronic- ... QAWidgetID
 

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That's good info Loot! :goodjob:
Maybe something for someone to look at if the current limiter doesn't fix the problem.

Maybe someone should take all the helpful items in this thread and compile them into a concise list of items to look for and how to fix them since this topic has gotten so long. :idea:
 
To all who posted about the current limiter problem, thank you. I had the same issue, ordered the part from DigiKey and installed it in 15 minutes. All is well now. I had checked with Hayward by the way who told me to replace the mother board. I mentioned to the tech the issue with the current limiter and he said "yes, that's been known to happen".
Thanks again. :-D
 
Need halp. No flow light is on, blinking and then solid. Replaced filter, checked flow sensor manually and it still does the same thing, blinking no flow. The flow sensor wire is intact. Unplugged and plugged back. Same status. I did notice the flow sensor had some rust that I was able to wipe off. Recently I had another issue with the drain line being clogged, but I believe that has been resolved. My readings were showing salt 2200 ppm, now it's 0.000. Any suggestions would be helpful. Should I check the fuse if the power light is green and the only other light is the no flow light.

R,
Julie
 
Can anyone confirm that this may be a inexpensive fix for a system that continually reads low salt levels? I have checked my salt levels at the pool store (3100) but my display continually drops to 2200 which causes it to stop generating.

The salt cell is only a couple month old and looks visually clean. I have tried the recalibrate/reset but "Instant" salt reading still shows 2100.

My next plan is to take the salt cell to a pool store to "Test" it and then hopefully warrant the cell if it is defective.

In the meantime I rean across this thread and thought I would check to see if the "quarter size black resister" may be a fix for this.

Thanks!

:?:
 
Looking for help my Aquarite generator has a slightly different problem. I turn mine on and the power and the generating lite stay on. When it first starts up these are my readings:
3500
57
24.6
4.48
87p
-3400
al-1
r1.33

After 10-15 min, power and generating lite still on but these are my readings:
3500
57
30.3
0.00
87p
-0
al-1
r1.33

I tested my salt level with a LaMotte pocket tester and it is at 3000ppm

Any ideas?? Is it still maybe the black disk?? Thankyou for any help you may be able to lend
New salt cell 2 years ago but same circuit board from 2005
 
GB2HB; I have the exact same problem...looking for answers as well. I read further on about the black quarter size thing, and that did fall apart when the old board was removed (many people talked about replacing this only for like $4), but of course the new circuit board has a new one.
 
Hi all, I'm a new registrant here but have used this site a couple of times in the past.

I have fixed my Aqua-Rite control in the past with the quarter sized black limiter but have used another source supplier that is half the price of digi-key.
You can go to http://www.newark.com and order Part # SL32 2RO25 for $2.70.
Shipping for small parts is usually around $5.00.

I replaced the black limiter about a year ago and it was working great but I'm having problems again.
I'm getting a "no-flow" light when turning the unit on, then the "generating" light comes on briefly (without the power light coming on) and goes out after about 5 seconds.
It could also be a bad cell since my unit is 6 years old...hopefully I can still get a year or two more on it :cool:
This time the limiter is not cracked like before but before I proceed with more expensive repairs I am going to replace the limiter again just to eliminate it as the cause.

Will post back here when I've completed the repair.
 
Turns out that the thermistor that I soldered in last year had become loose at one of the connection.
Although everything looked OK when I opened up the control panel, one of the soldered leads on the black thermistor had loosened and was not making contact.
After I soldered it back, everything is working fine!
Problem solved.
 

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