Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

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Rushred said:
Thanks for this site, I read thru and saw I have the same situation. I ordered the part and will let you know how it turns out. My pool is going on its 3rd yr, seems kinda early for this to happen. Is nothing made to last?

16x32 vinyl liner salt pool 20k Gal.??
Pentair Pump 1HP
sand dollar filter
Aqua Rite
Dolphin Diagnostic cleaner
Click to expand...

when I see no power light I know the current limiter is blown. I don't know if this is a goldline/hayward only problem or what. if lightning strikes or you get an electrical surge of some type the limiter blows and protects the board. A new board is $200-$300 and the limiter is $8.
 
I have the Aquarite for about at least 6-7 years now and haven't got any problem with the board. The panel was really warm when I felt it the first time and I thought the sun won't help it either. I used an aluminum sheet as an cover to keep it in the shade . I don't know if that helps but I thought I mention it. Another way is may be try to let the pump/Aquatire run in the pm hours when temp is lower or the equipments are out of the sun. I will order the current limiter anyway just in case. Thx for the info.
 
Hello Everyone,
I have the same problem with the power light not coming on. I checked the resistor and it looked burned. I ordered a new one from DigiKey as mentioned above. Does anyone have step by step instructions how to remove the old one and install the new one? I am a single mother, husband just left recently and I cannot afford a pool guy or electrician. I do have a soldering gun though.
Thank you
Jackie
 
Jackie,
You can purchase a solder kit by Googling "learn to solder kit", this will give you a practice project before you attempt to fix the board.
If you just want to go ahead and risk it without practicing, I would look up soldering and unsoldering on Youtube. Likely that you will need to purchase a copper braid to unsolder.
Seems like some posts back someone took their board to a TV repair man who unsoldered and resoldered the component for them at a minimal cost.

Lastly, you can try to cut the wires of the old limiter and wrap the new one around the old wires.
That's probably just a temporary fix though, I've only read that it had success, never tried it myself.
 
Jpetrov - on a component this size overheating is not your big problem. With larger component your most common problem is a cold solder joint. Most people will tell you to use a 15 watt iron, but I would recommend a 25 or 30 watt because of the size of this component.

Watch some videos on cold solder and wetting so you know what a good joint looks like. Also, make it easier on yourself and clip the legs at the component before you start. That way you can grab the leg with your pliers and you only have to desolder one at a time.

As soldering jobs go this is a pretty easy one. There's lots of room to work and the components and traces are large and heavy so it's pretty forgiving. If you're handy at all, you can probably skip the learn to solder kit and learn on this project.
 

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Thanks a lot for the useful info in this forum. I had the same problem with my controller. Checked the current limiter after reading the posts, and looked OK, but when touch it, it crumble in pieces. ordered the replacement thru Digi-Key, replace it and system is now back online, generating chlorine.
thanks again
 
I fixed the problem with the resistor and the power light is now on so that's done. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I have a problem with the "No flow" light that stays on. I ordered a new flow switch online and installed it but it still stays on. I made sure the arrows were pointing in the direction of the flow. Does anyone know what else it could be?

Thanks,
Jackie
 
Just wanted to pile on to this topic.

My power light would turn on for 10-15 seconds, the board would make a "clicking" sound like it was starting up... and the power light would immediately turn off. Several minutes would go by and the same sequence would happen again.

I opened the box, saw the Current Limiter looked cracked. And with all the positive feedback on this topic from this forum, I immediately ordered 2 Current Limiters. They arrived yesterday, removed the old one, soldered on the new one, re-installed circuit board, and like a charm the power light came on, stayed on and began producing chlorine. I love the internet. :goodjob:

Thanks for empowering people to keep their pools up and running properly, without the need for pool service companies.
 
:hammer: Been hoping to get an inexpensive fix for my aquarite system... have had it for 9 years and only had to replace the cell once, that was in 2010. I hope the 570-1062-ND part will fix it. (round black thing) Ordered it today... keeping my fingers crossed. Love the system and will purchase another if I cant find the fix. But I understand that Hayward bought Aquarite so I guess that is what I will get.
I live in Florida and have had no issues with my pool prior to this and feel very fortunate.
Have always loved it 22500 gal, in ground have had it since May 2003.
Any other suggestions are appreciated.
this site is awesome thanks all !
Peggy :wave:
 
OK...

My 2 cents. Last fall, I noticed my power light wasn't on, intermittently. Then right about the time we close the pool, it went out for good.

Of course I thought nothing of it until we opened the pool last week... and my friendly neighbourhood pool company wanted over $700 for a new unit. They told me there were "no serviceable parts" and that it was a throw away unit.

So I hit the net... first looking for a replacement. I still couldn't find anything less than $450. Plus shipping it was all over $500...

Then I came across this thread and wow... ordered my 2 v 25amp current limiter for $2.89, and 3 days later I'm back in business.

I can't thank you guys enough!

I guess what dumbfounds me is that with such a disparity in cost, why isn't anybody fixing these thing for a living?
 
You guys just saved me over $650(CDN). Thanks for sharing! I had a problem where the flow light would start flashing, then it would stop, and the generating light would come on for few seconds and go out. Following your advice, I had a look at the circuit board, sure enough it was burnt around the to top by the current limiter. I ordered the parts, and it was at my house two days later. It took me about an hour to fix myself (first time de-soldering). When I saw that green light come on, it made my weekend!

Thanks again!!

Joe
 
Thanks to all on this board, especially the one(s) who figured out about the black "thingy", current limiter issue. My system worked for years until the chlorine generator pooped out. I replaced it and things worked well for a few months, then everything stopped. The LCD display and troubleshooting button worked but none of the LED lights were active. I opened the system and noted a hair-line crack on the current limiter. I grabbed it and it split down the middle. I just ordered two of them and will post later. I'm certain this will work. Thanks again.
 
That was the same with me. I replaced the salt cell (it was approx 7 years old), but I still had issues with the panel lights, and no chlorine being generated. Anyway, after doing some Googling on the symptoms, it brought me to this site, which provided a quick and cheap fix to my problem. I asked the pool store I frequent if they offer this type of repair service and the said no. I think they're more interested in selling me a brand new unit for $650.
 

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