Aquapure 1400 121 Error

Thanks James. It hasn't thrown the error again since I cleaned with the brass brush but I suspect it will. When it does I'll open it up and record the current on each leg of the cell.
 
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You can access the wires by clamping around the blue or red wire or using an inline test in the red or blue wire.

For an inline test, just disconnect the red or blue wire and put the meter in series so that the current goes through the meter.
 
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You can access the wires by clamping around the blue or red wire or using an inline test in the red or blue wire.

For an inline test, just disconnect the red or blue wire and put the meter in series so that the current goes through the meter.

Ok - What voltage am I looking for?
 
You're going to be measuring current. We're assuming that the voltage is probably ok.

The voltage should be between 24 to 30 volts dc and the current should be between 5 and 8 amps dc.

Maybe show a picture of your test setup to verify before you power the cell to make sure that it's correct.

Do you want to do a clamp on test or an inline test?

What meter do you have?
 
You're going to be measuring current. We're assuming that the voltage is probably ok.

The voltage should be between 24 to 30 volts dc and the current should be between 5 and 8 amps dc.

Maybe show a picture of your test setup to verify before you power the cell to make sure that it's correct.

Do you want to do a clamp on test or an inline test?

What meter do you have?

I just have this cheap mm. so I guess I'll be doing the inline. But I am back at my false sense of security since the error hasn't come back since I cleaned the leads with the wire brush. Maybe I'll order a clamp on style.

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That will work. You will disconnect the red wire female connector from the male connector and put one lead in the female terminal and the other lead will connect to the male terminal. That way, the current will flow through the meter.

Note: Do not test voltage with the meter set like that or it will create a direct short and damage the meter.
 
OK it threw the error again so I went out and tested it. I don't actually know how I can test it while it is in a failed state. What I did was change the output to 0%. Unplugged the red cord, patched in the MM between the 2 disconnected leads, then put the % back to 100%. It went up to 5.58 amps. The MM says not to use it for more than 10 seconds and then wait for 15 minute for another test. I wonder if I just get a new cable if that will make any difference.

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Try a new cord. At least we know what the amperage is with this cord.

I don't know the exact shutdown amperage, but I suspect that it's close. Maybe 5.5 amps.

You can try a new cord and maybe a higher salinity and see if the amperage goes above 6.0

You should be about 6 to 7 amps right now.
 
Try a new cord. At least we know what the amperage is with this cord.

I don't know the exact shutdown amperage, but I suspect that it's close. Maybe 5.5 amps.

You can try a new cord and maybe a higher salinity and see if the amperage goes above 6.0

You should be about 6 to 7 amps right now.

Thanks! I did actually note that whereas I usually set the SWG at 53%, this year I had to set around 65%. So it seemed to be outputting at a lower level.

So is amperage a function of cell condition? Is it possible the power supply is failing or is this all the cell and cable that connects it? I did order a new cable I'll check the amps on that one when I get it.

Can I disconnect the cable and put the MM between the leads while the SWG is running and outputting power through the cable? Or should I do it the way I did with - set to 0, put in the MM, then crank it back up? Also will it show different amps depending if it is on normal or reverse cell operation?
 

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Can I disconnect the cable and put the MM between the leads while the SWG is running and outputting power through the cable?
No, that's not good.
Or should I do it the way I did with - set to 0, put in the MM, then crank it back up?
Yes, that's the correct way.
Also will it show different amps depending if it is on normal or reverse cell operation?
If the cell is good, the amps should be about the same in forward and reverse. If the amperage is more than about 0.5 amps different, the cell is bad or going bad.
So is amperage a function of cell condition?
Yes, the amperage begins to drop as the cell begins to fail. You can check the voltage going to the cell if you want, but I suspect that the voltage is probably OK or it would give an error.

To check voltage, you need to get the probes on the wires. I would make two extension wires with a 1/4' male connector on one end and a 1/4" female connector on the other end and cut a bare spot on both wires where you can check the voltage. Put one extension wire between the red female and the red male and the other extension between the blue female and the blue male terminal. Connect the multimeter to the bare spots to test voltage.

Make sure that the meter test leads are in the correct holes or the meter will burn up. Don't let the wire bare spots connect to anything other than the test leads.
 
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I have some interesting notes.
  1. Error code 121 always show regardless whether I reverse the cell connector.
    1. Does this mean the cell and the cable is not the problem?
    2. Does it mean the cell is fine but the cable is not?
  2. Cell always shows as "cell reversing".
    1. I watched a cycle when it went from "cell on" to "cell resting" and back to "cell on". It never changed from "cell reversing".
    2. Does this indicate a SWG power supply failure?

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I suspect that the polarity is not reversing because the cycle never completes. Most likely, the cell is failing. I would try a new cord and a higher salinity to see if you can get a sustained current above 6 amps.
 
I suspect that the polarity is not reversing because the cycle never completes. Most likely, the cell is failing. I would try a new cord and a higher salinity to see if you can get a sustained current above 6 amps.

I already increased salinity by 400 parts and ordered the cable. Should get it by the weekend.

BTW: They show max 6 amps for output. - 22-30 VDC @ 6 AMPS maximum

Isn't the cell purely mechanical? It looks like the plates which are connected to the power supply and no electronics. There is no corrosion that I can see so not sure what in the cell could be failing.
 
The plates are coated with platinum group metal compounds that act as catalysts for the electrolysis reactions.

They show max 6 amps for output. - 22-30 VDC @ 6 AMPS maximum
The actual current probably goes to about 8 amps maximum. The 6 amps is probably not accurate.

Over time, this coating fails and the production drops below the preset limits.
 
The plates are coated with platinum group metal compounds that act as catalysts for the electrolysis reactions.


The actual current probably goes to about 8 amps maximum. The 6 amps is probably not accurate.

Over time, this coating fails and the production drops below the preset limits.

Understood I just find it hard to believe that after 3 seasons of use with verifiable near perfect water conditions that the plate coating would be failing already. Not to mention I use it at 53% output. I would think these should last 2 to 3x as long.
 
I suspect that if you removed the screws and took the cell apart, you would likely find the problem.

If the cell is less than 3 years, file a warranty claim.

Hmm you know what, I just checked for some reason I thought I was in my 4th year, but my pool was finished 2017 so I am in my 3rd year. I am checking with my builder to see if I am covered. Maybe there is an easier solution! I actually have time-stamped photo evidence that my pool was filled on 9/13/2017. So I am literally 3 days still in warranty! .....hopefully....
 
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