Aqua Trol RJ - No flow

[JeanG]

Hi,
My Aqua Trol RJ unit is reporting a "No Flow". When I turn it off and back on, it will go 5-10 seconds before the "Inspect Cell" light momentarily flashes on and then the "No Flow" light goes on. I've inspected the cell, flushed it out, backwashed the filter, everything looks clean and I have strong flow. It was also working at the start of the season and then just started doing this. The cell is about 5y old.
Given that the RJ unit doesn't have a flow switch, is there something on the board that I can replace without having to replace the whole board or is this simply the cell being at the end of its life?

Thanks!

 

[hexabc]

Since the unit does not have the fow switch, I have no idea on what basis it may report "No flow" error.

Excerpt from the manual (https://hayward-pool-assets.com/ass...nuals/aquatrol-owners-manual.pdf?fromCDN=true):

Return Jet installation (-RJ option):
Note that this installation does NOT require a flow switch--however it is very important that the cell be mounted vertically directly below the return jet in order to allow the gases produced in the cell to naturally dissipate in the pool.

 

[JamesW]

The product name probably got switched from AL-7 to AL-6.

Check in diagnostics and switch to AL-7 or install a flow switch if it will not change.

Cell Diagnostics.​

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)

• AL-0 is AquaRite.
• AL-1 NatureSoft.
• AL-2 MineralSprings.
• AL-3 SmartPure.
• AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
• AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
• AL-6 and AL-7 are used on the AquaTrol, which is an AquaRite with a timer for above ground pools.

For regular AquaRite, the setting can be changed from AL-0 to Al-5.

For Aquatrol, the AL setting is either set to AL-6 or AL-7.

The regular Aquatrol uses a flow switch. The RJ (Return Jet) model doesn't use a flow switch.

The model number should be inside the door.

In diagnostics, AL-6 means regular Aquatrol, AL-7 means return jet.

 

[Mdragger88]

Have you replaced the board recently?
If not can you confirm all your diagnostics.
Here’s a helpful thread

Aqua trol RJ reading no flow

My aqua trol rj is reading no flow and pump will not turn off while plugged into unit. New board has been put in because it went out last week. Any ideas?

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

The product name probably got switched from AL-7 to AL-6.

Check in diagnostics and switch to AL-7 or install a flow switch if it will not change.

Cell Diagnostics.​

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• AL-0 is AquaRite.
• AL-1 NatureSoft.
• AL-2 MineralSprings.
• AL-3 SmartPure.
• AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
• AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
• AL-6 and AL-7 are used on the AquaTrol, which is an AquaRite with a timer for above ground pools.

For regular AquaRite, the setting can be changed from AL-0 to Al-5.

For Aquatrol, the AL setting is either set to AL-6 or AL-7.

The regular Aquatrol uses a flow switch. The RJ (Return Jet) model doesn't use a flow switch.

The model number should be inside the door.

In diagnostics, AL-6 means regular Aquatrol, AL-7 means return jet.

To the rescue !

 

[JeanG]

Thank you everyone.
I checked the diagnostics, it's still on AL-07 as it should be. Voltage is 27.4 which I guess is a bit lower than expected.
When I went to switch it on to see how the voltage/amps would fluctuate, it miraculously started working again. Voltage dropped to 21.9 and cell current went to 2.78 but otherwise, it seems happy.

 

[JamesW]

Sometimes, the display board needs to be removed and reset to make a better contact with the gold pins from the main board.

Bad contacts can cause signal disruption and that can cause spurious data input and settings changes.