Hello ... I have a pool in the CA desert. The Aqua Rite motherboard was replaced in August 2016 and the T-15 salt cell was replaced in May 2019. I did my routine check today of the salt cell due to the LED light was flashing. The cell was clean and I reset the motherboard to stop the flashing light. However, the "low salt" LED and the "inspect cell" are now both flashing, even after the reset. Does this sound like the motherboard is faulty, the salt cell, or what? Thank you for any help you can provide.
Aqua Rite SWG and Hayward T-15 salt cell - low salt and inspect cell continue to flash after reset
- Thread starter LisaDLu
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,743
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
www.troublefreepool.com
- Report all readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thank you for the quick reply! Here is the info you requested:
- Report all readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- 2700
- 57
- 31.6
- 0.00
- 12p
- -0
- AL-1
- r 1.59
- t-15
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- 2700
- 57
- 27.0
- 4.39
- 13p
- -2700
- AL-1
- r 1.59
- t-15
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- 2600
- 57
- 27.1
- 4.39
- 12p
- -2700
- AL-1
- r 1.59
- t-15
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- Cell = 3E19143
- Box = The only thing I saw on the inside door of the box was *5A0308-1020203*
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
- I'm not sure about the actual salinity. I've just been using the readings on the panel to guide me.
If the salinity reading is 2,700 ppm or lower, the light will blink.
You need to know the actual salinity.
tftestkits.net
See what the actual salinity is and add salt as needed.
You need to know the actual salinity.
Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit
See what the actual salinity is and add salt as needed.
We are ordering the salt test kit you recommended. However, in the interim, we purchased some strips from our local Leslie's just to have a quick look. The salinity was about 4500 using the strips. Our chlorine level is 4. At this point, does this sound like a problem with the salt cell or motherboard?
I don't really trust test strips, let's see what the K-1766 says.
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity.
If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell.
For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%.
Check the cell and clean it if necessary.
If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
Also, I did take a water sample down to one of the local pool stores this morning. They got a reading of 4100 on salinity. If I end up having to purchase a new T-15 cell, can you please tell me a couple good sources where I can buy one? Thank you.
Hayward AquaRite Replacement T-CELL-15, 40,000 Gal Pool, TurboCell, Model W3T-CELL-15 - INYOPools.com
Looking for a replacement cell for your AquaRite salt pool chlorine generator? Consider the Hayward T-Cell-15 replacement cell! This reliable and durable cell is designed to provide long-lasting performance and efficient chlorine generation for your pool. With easy installation and low...
www.inyopools.com
2700/4100 = 65.85%
Probably time for a new cell if the K-1766 confirms the actual salinity reading.
Probably time for a new cell if the K-1766 confirms the actual salinity reading.
Thank you - And I'm assuming that if the calculation you show above holds true once we get the K-1766, then we're going to have to drain the pool a bit? Would it be a partial/half drain required or do you think it would involve a total drain? Thank you.
It depends on the amperage with the new cell.
As long as the amperage stays below 8.0, you don't have to drain at all.
Try changing the cell size to T-9 until you get a new cell.
Thank you - I just changed it to T-9. Funny thing is that when I did that, both the "low salt" light and "inspect cell" light stopped flashing. They are now off.
Changing it to T-9 makes it read the salinity higher than it is.
The reading for salinity should be close to accurate now.
The reading for salinity should be close to accurate now.
Hi there ... sorry to have taken so long, but just got our K-1766. Salinity reading was 5400. So, using the math you provided above = 2700/5400 = 50%. We recalibrated it to a T-9 per your recommendation a few days ago and it shows 3900 and no flashing lights. Our free-chlorine has been good this entire time and tested today at a 4.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,743
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
5400 is way too high. Recommended salt level is 3000-3500. That high a salt level can damage The board or cause the system to shutdown.
Dont connect a new cell T-15 until you drain about 40% of the pool and get the salinity below 3500ppm.
One more question. Could anyone recommend a submergible pump that doesn't break the bank? it is going to be $50 a day to rent one so I figure I might want to buy one I can also use in the future. Thanks again!