Aqua Logic Panel Dead and can't start my pump

Mar 22, 2015
24
Phoenix, AZ
It looks like my control panel for my pool has died and now I can't turn on my pool pump. I had a guy replace my pool pump a few years ago and he suggested bypassing the relay connect to the double gang breaker and that by doing this, I could manually start the pump. I did this and it seems like the pump is running only on 110 volts so I shut it off. the cover for the relays also has a small burn mark over the first relay. It once was a salt water chlorine generator pool but I converted to TFP method since I moved in 5 years ago. Is it possible to convert my pump to a simple timer and ditch the complicated panel all together?

1.jpg

2.jpg

Display:
dispaly_panel.jpg

PCB:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nJfzcnM5mtjXKTO4WGw4q6tALOFftOEN/view?usp=sharing
 
It once was a salt water chlorine generator pool but I converted to TFP method since I moved in 5 years ago.
TFP method includes SWG. Many of us on the forum use SWGs.

Is it possible to convert my pump to a simple timer and ditch the complicated panel all together?
Yes, you can do that. However, anything else the controller turns on and off would need separate controls.

You can also replace the main board or even perhaps fix it as most of these fail due to a single solder joint. Do you have picture of the full back of the PC board?
 
That is a zoomed in picture of the front of the board. I need a zoomed out picture of the back of the board so I can see the entire board.
 
Here's a better pic
5730e1bae121064a841504b38ea16875.jpg
 
That is the front of the board. Again, I am talking about the back of the board (opposite side) where all the solder joints are.

Also, you might check the yellow/orange fuse in the upper right of the above pic that is labeled 20 to see if it is burnt out.
 
The lower right of that picture is a solder joint that looks burned. More than likely, that solder needs to be re-floated to repair the connection. This is a typical failure point for AquaLogic boards. If you can soldering skills, it is easily repaired. There are also vendors on ebay that will repair the board for you.
 
Yes, with dark brown/black burnt marks around it. If the connection is bad, it can affect the entire board. Sometimes the K1 relay, which is what that solder joint is connected to, can also be bad.

Is the Aqualogic display completely off without any digits showing (i.e. the entire board is dead)?
 

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Possible. I know of some on the forum who had the same problem, replaced the relay and it came back to life.

Do you have multi-meter and can you measure the voltage to the red and black leads that are connected to the top right (front reference) of the board? Just to make sure the transformer and the rectifiers are ok. Should read 24-26 vdc.

Also, did you also check the trace around the solder joint? Some times it disconnects from another part of the trace.
 
See if you have 120 volts to the system. It should be on its own breaker.

To the right of the breakers is the connection for board power. It says 120 volts on the sticker with red writing.

Check for 120 volts to black and white.

Also, check for 240 volts coming in at the bottom red and black wires that go to the breakers busbars.

Check for 240 volts from the pump breaker.

It looks like the pump relay is fried. It looks like aux 2 isn't being used. You can use that as a spare. Just tape off the 24 volt top control wires after you remove the relay.

The light wiring does not look right. The light relay should get power from the gfci load terminals so that the light is gfci protected. It looks like the relay gets power directly from the breaker. That's not safe.

The aux 1 relay looks like there is wire going to terminals 2 and 3. That won't do anything. What does the aux 1 relay control?
 
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