Am I On The Right Track?

Well, I don't know what those chunks are, but when we cleaned out our light niche, we found chunks of plaster that the plaster guys did not clean out. :hammer:
And, the light guy did not clean it either, when he came to re-install the light after the replaster.
 
Butterfly said:
Well, I don't know what those chunks are, but when we cleaned out our light niche, we found chunks of plaster that the plaster guys did not clean out. :hammer:
And, the light guy did not clean it either, when he came to re-install the light after the replaster.

That's probably what it is, it was probably hiding behind the light & it got sucked out when we cleaned with the hose. I wont worry about it then.

Last night FC dropped from 48 ppm to 41.5 ppm, so a loss of 6.5 ppm, hoping that loss reduces each night to less then 1 ppm this weekend, fingers crossed.

I know I'm higher than my recommended FC but am running low on testing supplies(await them in mail)
 
Am I On The Right Track? * UPDATE*

Here is an update..
Chlorine loss of only 4ppm last night. Hoping to be down to 1 in the next few days...
Light niche is still soaking in a bucket of pool water, had turned the water cloudy white the first few nights but is now clear.
Pool water is clear, my CC was .5 last I checked. Once my OCLT is less than 1ppm I can let the FC drop to 6 - 11 ppm based on my CYA of 80? Or do I need to shock longer to clear the filter? Thought I'd read that advise on here somewhere...
 
linen said:
Assuming your OCLT is less than 1 and your CC stays below 0.5, then as long as there are no signs of algae, and you water is crystal clear, you are done with the shocking process.

After all this hard work I wanted to be sure I wasnt in the instance to go another week to make sure the filter was clean....

My OCLT was a loss of 3 ppm... Maybe tomorrow...

Thanks for all the responses...
 
Update: Still plugging away, have kept FC well above the 31 ppm recommended. My OCLT readings are all over the place, not constantly lowering as they were earlier in this shocking process....
Here are my most recent readings;
43.5 to under 40 this am (over 3.5 ppm lost)
38 to 36 Sun am (2 ppm lost)
46.5 to 41 Sat am (5.5 ppm lost)
I was out of regents from Wed night till Fri morning but made sure I was well above FC by maintaining the 2 gallons each day that I've been using
41.5 to 40 Wed am (I thought I was almost there...)
40 to 41.5 Tues am (looked like I gained 1.5 ppm) I had add my last chlorine at 2:30 pm & took my overnight reading at 8pm so I'm stumped here...
39.5 to 37 Mon am (2.5 ppm lost)
We've removed & cleaned the light niche, sand filter is still running at 14 - 15 psi which is 1 - 2 psi over the lowest we've ever gotten it. CC is .05 & water is crystal clear. I've replaced the skimmer basket & we've soaked all brushes & poles for about a week. As of Saturday it's been 3 weeks that we've kept the FC well above 31 ppm. We are losing faith :( ... Any ideas?
 
What is your current CYA reading? I think you may be well above shock level which may be giving you the odd readings.

The 31ppm recommendation was probably based on a CYA of 80ppm from the Chlorine/CYA chart. The poolcalculator is not quite as aggressive and suggests a shock FC level of 21ppm.

I would suggest letting the level drop toward 21ppm and try the OCLT around there (since your CC are within range and your water is clear), unless anyone has a better suggestion.
 
I think jblizzle's approach is a good idea. Also, make sure that when you fill the test chamber, you fill it to the exact same level each time, I sometimes us a syringe for this.

Two possible relevant items from the extended test kit directions:
When measuring high FC levels, or measuring FC when the CC level is relatively high, it is important to move through the test quickly. Drops should be added about once per second, or slightly faster, swirling the entire time. You can slow down a little at the end of the test, to give you time to watch for the end point.

The exact amount of R-0870 powder used is not critical. The goal is to add more than you really need rather than using too little. Using too little R-0870 powder can throw off the results of the test. You need to use enough to bind to all of the chlorine that is present. Adding extra, within reason, has no effect. At very high FC levels it is likely that you will need to use more than the normal amount.
At your high FC levels you may need two scoops.



Here is the link to the extended directions for the FAS-DPD test: http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206393
 

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Thanks for the response... CYA was 80 just before we started the shocking process. We did some backwashing during the procees but still used the 80 CYA to calculate FC for Shock Level. I just ran the CYA test again & it looks somewhere between 50 - 60. I have read the CYA level at about 60 but wasnt sure if that was a false reading due to either algae or high FC. I'll let the FC level drop down to 18 (Pool Calculator) - 24 (Chlorine/CYA chart) unless someone has any other ideas I should try first. Here's hoping for a zero FC loss tonight!
 
lovemy3azboys said:
Thanks for the response... CYA was 80 just before we started the shocking process. We did some backwashing during the procees but still used the 80 CYA to calculate FC for Shock Level. I just ran the CYA test again & it looks somewhere between 50 - 60. I have read the CYA level at about 60 but wasnt sure if that was a false reading due to either algae or high FC. I'll let the FC level drop down to 18 (Pool Calculator) - 24 (Chlorine/CYA chart) unless someone has any other ideas I should try first. Here's hoping for a zero FC loss tonight!

Sounds like a plan :goodjob: ... although it may take a day or 2 to drop down to around 20ppm.
 
linen said:
I think jblizzle's approach is a good idea. Also, make sure that when you fill the test chamber, you fill it to the exact same level each time, I sometimes us a syringe for this. Two possible relevant items from the extended test kit directions:
When measuring high FC levels, or measuring FC when the CC level is relatively high, it is important to move through the test quickly. Drops should be added about once per second, or slightly faster, swirling the entire time. You can slow down a little at the end of the test, to give you time to watch for the end point.
[quote:3hgfmyn4]The exact amount of R-0870 powder used is not critical. The goal is to add more than you really need rather than using too little. Using too little R-0870 powder can throw off the results of the test. You need to use enough to bind to all of the chlorine that is present. Adding extra, within reason, has no effect. At very high FC levels it is likely that you will need to use more than the normal amount.
At your high FC levels you may need two scoops. Here is the link to the extended directions for the FAS-DPD test: http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206393[/quote:3hgfmyn4] Thanks for these additional instructions... I did read somewhere on here about hitting the bottom of the arch at the line rather than the top of the arch so I have been doing that. Good to know I can use more of the powder & it doesn't make a difference. With my FC so high I've been adding 10 drops at a time then swirling. Didn't think it would hurt if I did it the same every time. I'll work on adding each drop & swirling faster.
 
jblizzle said:
lovemy3azboys said:
Thanks for the response... CYA was 80 just before we started the shocking process. We did some backwashing during the procees but still used the 80 CYA to calculate FC for Shock Level. I just ran the CYA test again & it looks somewhere between 50 - 60. I have read the CYA level at about 60 but wasnt sure if that was a false reading due to either algae or high FC. I'll let the FC level drop down to 18 (Pool Calculator) - 24 (Chlorine/CYA chart) unless someone has any other ideas I should try first. Here's hoping for a zero FC loss tonight!

Sounds like a plan :goodjob: ... although it may take a day or 2 to drop down to around 20ppm.

I dont mind NOT adding chlorine for a day or two after the many cases I've been through. Although with it being over 100 here my FC once dropped 5 ppm in about 2 hours so it probably wont take too long...
Thanks for the responses...
 
Just finished my FC testing for tonight. I added 2 scoops of powder rather than 1 & it was very dark. I had noticed lately that after I added the powder it wasnt as dark as it used to be but would darken once I began adding the liquid drops, which I thought was strange. Anyway, tonight I used 2 scoops of the powder & I added one drop of the liquid at a time & just swirled the vial rather than stiring with each drop then began stiring towards the end. It worked fine & was easier & faster than stiring the whole time. My FC is down to 28.5 ppm, which is down from 40 ppm plus 1 gallon added this morning. Yes, it's that hot already. My family is dying to swim so I gotta get this thing ready.
Thanks for the tips & hope it holds overnight!
 
Just be consistent with how you test now... especially in the morning to compare with what you did tonight.

Later when you are a normal FC levels you can return to the single scoop.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
jblizzle said:
Just be consistent with how you test now... especially in the morning to compare with what you did tonight.

Later when you are a normal FC levels you can return to the single scoop.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)

I did it exactly as last night. Last night was 28.5 ppm & this am was 29.5 ppm(+1ppm?), last chlorine addition was yesterday morning... Will continue to let FC drop to between 18 - 24 ppm today & test again tonight...

Thanks for the advise & I will go back to one scoop once this is settled...
 
Based on that must be minor testing error. I am guessing you are in the clear, but check the next few nights as the FC continues to drop.

Good work!!!

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
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