All my numbers are off.

[frogabog]

Shock level for 0 CYA is 10ppm. You won't be shocking if you only raise it to 7ppm even if CYA is (but it's not...) 0.

You have added CYA, but how much? What is your estimated CYA level. If it's above 15ppm shock is higher than 10 (actually 11). At 23ppm CYA it's 12ppm. 30ppm CYA is 13ppm. And so on...

 

[raidencmc]

I would guess my CYA is about 60. But I vacuumed to waste and topped off. So I guess what I am asking is my goal at this time to shock?

 

[frogabog]

Go with 60ppm CYA. A couple inches off the top of these pools doesn't lower CYA very much if at all. Maybe 1 or 2ppm... maybe. If 60 is your calculated level, shock to that level till you know differently. A couple ppm extra will not be a problem at all.

Shock for 60ppm CYA is 18ppm.

Minimum FC is 5ppm, target high is 9ppm.

 

[raidencmc]

I shocked it yesterday and today it was more green then before. After work I Vacuumed to waste. But the clarity was better I could see the bottom. I also noticed visible white sandy material which I vacuumed out too. I then tested with my strips FC 2 I shocked again based on the new calculator results. After the shock I scrubbed the walls again.

Do I keep shocking until the green is gone or do I start correcting my levels? Or both.
I have read pool school once and am constantly looking it over. It makes more sense every time.

 

[frogabog]

In all likelihood you'll continue to shock long after the green is gone.

Without a test kit however, you don't know and neither will we. Have you considered getting a FAS-DPD test kit? The test strips are junk, sorry to say. I just used one last week for kicks and giggles... it was SO FAR OFF that if I'd adjusted the pool according to those numbers I'd have screwed up the chemistry in a massive way.

 

[raidencmc]

In all likelihood you'll continue to shock long after the green is gone.

W

When you say that are you referring too regular weekly shocks?

Knowing the test strip was not accurate I used the test strip to see if I could see a change and I did. Normally FC would be 0 and it was 2 which means it has risen. I picked up a liquid one at walmart while I wait for my TF 100 to arrive.
What am I looking for to change before I stop shocking the pool? What is the next step and how do I know when to do it.

 

[Butterfly]

Congrats on ordering the TF100

Shocking the pool is a process. Meeting three criteria/requirements proves when we are done shocking.

See red lines in my sig:

 

[raidencmc]

OK so I will do my best to keep Chlorine levels up at shock level until I see no more green. Am I helping by vacuuming or is it not necessary? And when you say "your water is clear" you are referring too the actual water and not dead gray stuff on the bottom of the pool(which I will be trying vacuum out)?

And when I am done shocking I start working on my other levels while still maintaining my FC levels. Is there a special order I should use when adjusting my levels? What about the chemicals I was using in the past? All I have left is some CYA, Ph plus, Arch Chemical 16.3Lb 3/1 Chlor Tablet 28207 Non-Stabilized Dry Chlorine, and some ARM & HAMMER® Clear Balance?

 

[linen]

OK so I will do my best to keep Chlorine levels up at shock level until I see no more green.

Not just green as Butterfly says, see her (or my) sig to know when you are done shocking.

Am I helping by vacuuming or is it not necessary?

It may help get the dead algae into the filter faster. Brushing is more important, do it as often as you can.

And when you say "your water is clear" you are referring too the actual water and not dead gray stuff on the bottom of the pool(which I will be trying vacuum out)?

To be safe I would shock until there is nothing in pool. If it ends up taking an extra long time we can address that then.

And when I am done shocking I start working on my other levels while still maintaining my FC levels. Is there a special order I should use when adjusting my levels?

ph, FC, CYA, then the rest. Do you have a good test kit yet (if not see my sig).

What about the chemicals I was using in the past? All I have left is some CYA, Ph plus, Arch Chemical 16.3Lb 3/1 Chlor Tablet 28207 Non-Stabilized Dry Chlorine, and some ARM & HAMMER® Clear Balance?

CYA if you need it, Ph plus if you need it, arch chem product is calcium hypochlorite which you could use but it does add calcium to your pool...I probably wouldn't, Clear balance is baking soda plus a clarifier so I would not use it since it is unlikely you need clarifier.

 

[raidencmc]

Thanks for all the info. I think I got it for now. Of course we are gonna get 5 days of storms and being on top of a hill with a large aluminum pole is not to fun for me. I would close the thread and if I have any more questions I will start a new one.

 

[raidencmc]

Everything is looking great. It took a bit we have been having terrible rain. Not sure if I did it or all the rain replaced the water but I will take credit. Just getting my numbers good and hopefully some last bit of hot weather so we can enjoy it a few more times. Thanks all.