algaecides

engrav said:
sounds like a good idea; will get full chemistry and return; should I return here or move to chemistry section?
I'm not a moderator, but I've seen many threads by the same poster combined. The reason seems to be that lots of info on your pool & your situation have already been shared in the previous posts and no one wants to lose that info trail. So, my suggestion would be to return to this thread.

Just my opinion, subject to moderation. :wink:
 
Stay with the same thread until you have a completely new, unrelated concept. Even if the issue changes from algaecides to chlorine to testing kits, keeping all your stuff/thoughts/concerns in one thread helps everyone to understand the progress of your issue.
 
techguy said:
Stay with the same thread until you have a completely new, unrelated concept. Even if the issue changes from algaecides to chlorine to testing kits, keeping all your stuff/thoughts/concerns in one thread helps everyone to understand the progress of your issue.

Ok, Hi, am back

pool is clear, can see defects in the plaster on the bottom
and when I scrub the sides no cloud appears
and no chipmunks today on the bottom
mice and shrews seem to float, chipmunks seem to sink; wonder why that is? lower BMI?

well water
pH 7.8
TA 140
CH 70
pool water
FC 4
pH 7.6
TA 90
CH 270
CY 80

The CY test is kinda vague with K-2005. When the dot disappears? Kinda iffy for old eyes. But the dot never disappeared with well water so...

Would seem you all favor swapping out some water. And changing to tabs for background Cl and bleach or Ca Hypo to keep intermittently keep it up.

I suppose evaporation makes CYA thing worse.

At FC 4 and CY 80 and pool rarely used and when used by small numbers how much am I at risk for algae? like gonna happen, might happen, unlikely to happen

thanks

will check pool volume chemically next time I add something
 
The CYA is because of using pucks, not evaporation because when you refill it is zero CYA water. At 80 you should keep the FC at a minimum of 6 and preferably around 9 or 10. Your algae risk is hard to say now, but if you keep your FC above 6 at all times it is very low.

If you change enough water to get your CYA down to 50 you would only need to maintain an FC of 4-5. It would help you out a lot to lower it a bit. Also if you don't lower it and keep using pucks it will continue to increase.

And I am glad to hear your pool is clear. I hope you take some proactive steps to keep it that way and we are here to help you do that as efficiently and effectively as possible!
 
Donldson said:
The CYA is because of using pucks, not evaporation because when you refill it is zero CYA water. At 80 you should keep the FC at a minimum of 6 and preferably around 9 or 10. Your algae risk is hard to say now, but if you keep your FC above 6 at all times it is very low.

If you change enough water to get your CYA down to 50 you would only need to maintain an FC of 4-5. It would help you out a lot to lower it a bit. Also if you don't lower it and keep using pucks it will continue to increase.

And I am glad to hear your pool is clear. I hope you take some proactive steps to keep it that way and we are here to help you do that as efficiently and effectively as possible!

problem is
water drains into Puget Sound and nobody wants Cl in Puget Sound
I suppose I could
1) let Cl drop to zero
2) use vacuum hose to remove water (40% would go below the outflows)
3) turn off pump
4) refill with well water
5) restore Cl

or
do a little at a time every time I backwash

or
your clever idea here

and
I suppose I should move to tabs for background / bleach to top it off
since we are not here all the time probably cannot do bleach alone else might drop to zero for a few days

by the way, I diluted the water 50% and CYA was about 40 so about 80 seems "correct" even with the "see what is invisible" method :)

thank you again
 
Can you water your yard with the water? You could do small amount over time and slowly reduce the CYA during the rest of the season. If you keep your FC above the minimum and do not have an algae bloom, you should be OK for the season. It is possible the CYA will be lower after winter.
 
A modification on your idea of allowing FC to drop to 0 then draining is to use chlorine reducer, so you could drop your chlorine almost instantly (within an hour) drain, bump your FC back up and refill. This lowers your exposure time where FC is below the minimum where algae may start growing.
 
techguy said:
Can you water your yard with the water? You could do small amount over time and slowly reduce the CYA during the rest of the season. If you keep your FC above the minimum and do not have an algae bloom, you should be OK for the season. It is possible the CYA will be lower after winter.

I like it. We are thinking on how to store drained pool water for watering. But I calculate that 1" is 550 gallons which is a lot of water. (rough 35' x 25' x 1")
 
Isaac-1 said:
A modification on your idea of allowing FC to drop to 0 then draining is to use chlorine reducer, so you could drop your chlorine almost instantly (within an hour) drain, bump your FC back up and refill. This lowers your exposure time where FC is below the minimum where algae may start growing.

I like it. But still what to do with the water?

Which/what reducer would I buy?
 

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Isaac-1 said:
You would probably want something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Swim-Chlor ... ne+reducer

note a little goes a long way

thank you, will check it out
funny: Amazon says 2.25 lb container, label on the image says 40 lb
and directions say 6oz / 10k gallons, 40lb would go a verrryy long way

I think the image is wrong

thank you

looks like I will either need to
1)keep on with trichlor tabs and every so often neutralize and drain to remove CYA or
2)change to minimal tabs for a chlorine background and then bleach it to top off
 
engrav said:
Isaac-1 said:
looks like I will either need to
1)keep on with trichlor tabs and every so often neutralize and drain to remove CYA or
2)change to minimal tabs for a chlorine background and then bleach it to top off
You do not need any tablets at all. I use them when I will be away for more than a day but not for regular chlorination. Option 1 will require one, probably two water changes a year. If you are already "topping it off" in Option 2 then you might as well skip the tablets altogether.

So I propose Option 3: Keep the tabs for times you are not at home and add bleach nightly while you are. It takes 3-5 minutes a day. Most importantly you are right on top of the chemistry. You are seeing the chlorine and pH every day and if something starts to go awry you will see it long before the water starts to show. That is why BBB rarely involves algaecide, proper FC levels and being on top of things long before they become noticeable.
 
So I propose Option 3: Keep the tabs for times you are not at home and add bleach nightly while you are. It takes 3-5 minutes a day. Most importantly you are right on top of the chemistry. You are seeing the chlorine and pH every day and if something starts to go awry you will see it long before the water starts to show. That is why BBB rarely involves algaecide, proper FC levels and being on top of things long before they become noticeable.

oh my, even better
we are not here (where pool is) all the time so tabs when away and bleach when here, sounds like a plan, I will try it
will buy some bleach today

thank you
 
engrav,

I am seeing one thread on clearing and maintaining a nice pool and another on filling it in.........seems that should be one conversation and a lot less confusing to people trying to help. I can't decide which thread to respond to.
 
duraleigh said:
engrav,

I am seeing one thread on clearing and maintaining a nice pool and another on filling it in.........seems that should be one conversation and a lot less confusing to people trying to help. I can't decide which thread to respond to.

is true is confused
I had 2 queries
1) use algaecides or not and
2) remove pool or not

both rapidly morphed into discussions of
1) how to remove CYA
2) how to chlorinate
3) how to drain pool when there is no place to drain it (can't drain into Puget Sound, can't drain into the steep hillside, can't drain into septic system)
4) how to neutralize chlorine
etc

but I think all questions have been answered so maybe can cease and desist for now
I am extremely grateful for the ideas, has been extremely helpful since there are no pool maintenance sources on Whidbey Island

first step is to get chlorine up with bleach to match high CYA so off to town to buy bleach

bye for now

for the fun of it attached jpg of the pool and surround
thanks again you all were fine help and discussion was fun
 

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So... I am confused? What are you doing? cleaning, draining, filling, or deciding what to do? We are volunteers trying to come up with a single coherent plan and you have four conversations pulling in four directions?
 
techguy said:
So... I am confused? What are you doing? cleaning, draining, filling, or deciding what to do? We are volunteers trying to come up with a single coherent plan and you have four conversations pulling in four directions?

all questions have been answered by all of you guys, very helpful
all 3 startup queries have been answered

do I need algaecide? no
how to remove pool? bust up concrete and fill
why is FC6 Ok if all recommendations are 1-3? recommendations are historical and incomplete

and all of the derivative questions have been answered as well
what to do about CYA 80? drain water
what to do about CYA in tabs? use bleach instead
what do do when we are not here? use tabs
how to drain pool when no place to drain chlorinated water? neutralize and then drain
how to capture pool water for irrigation? use a small above ground pool
can you swim in FC6 water? yes

one was not answered. why do mice in the pool float and chipmunks sink? :)

so all my threads are over, can be archived, start with clean slate
you all have been very helpful, polite and fun; thank you
 
to close the circle

went to town
bought bleach
put in 2 gallons
FC is now 8
Rainbow is off since we are here

and
changes suggest pool is 30k, not 25k

and I think
will change to tabs when away and bleach when here as recommended
will think on how to exchange water since no options seem very attractive

thanks again for all the help
 

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