Aeration

[Calje]

Hello, I’m wondering if the constant ripple on the surface of my vacuum hose has any aeration affect on my pH? It runs about 10 hours a day.
Fill water is 7.4 and I’m always fighting high pH.
Thank you

 

[splashpad]

Hello! Normally aeration would need to be quite substantial to raise PH along with an elvated TA level

What test kit do you have? Do you have a recent complete test result?

 

[Mdragger88]

Also, how old is your plaster?

 

[Calje]

Test kit TF100
Todays numbers
FC 5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 80
CYA 50
CH 200
Plaster 8 years.

 

[splashpad]

Thanks for that info When you lower your PH, do you use muriatic acid and what target do you aim for?

 

[TexEdmond]

Hello, I’m wondering if the constant ripple on the surface of my vacuum hose has any aeration affect on my pH? It runs about 10 hours a day.
Fill water is 7.4 and I’m always fighting high pH.
Thank you

Welcome to the club! [edit] good on you for getting the TF-100 kit... you're on the path to easy, clear water!

While you're familiarizing yourself with the website, it's also good to fill in your pool details in the profile (liner type, volume, chlorine used, pump, heater) because sometimes that has an impact on the right thing to do for your situation.

I'm in the same boat as you fighting high pH much of the time. Muriatic acid will be your friend; don't use dry acids as they'll lead to buildup of other levels in the water that can harm your equipment or pool surface. My high pH issues are more driven by the alkalinity, not the pH of my fill water. My well water is TA of 260ppm, but my pool really needs to be in the 60-90 range. I quit counting last season after 16 gallons of acid went into the pool following a drain/refill to bring my CYA down.

 

[Sunnydaze]

Define "always fighting high ph." How long does it take to go from x to y?

 

[Calje]

Thanks guys….
Muriatic acid typically aim for 7.6
7.6 to 7.8 48 hrs.

 

[PoolStored]

Thanks guys….
Muriatic acid typically aim for 7.6
7.6 to 7.8 48 hrs.

Let your pH drift up to 8.0 or even 8.2 and see if it stabilizes (which is ok).

Also, some find they need to continue to lower pH until their TA is 50-60 to stabilize somewhere between 7.8 and 8.2.

Yes, with 7.4 fill water you will fight rising pH as the 7.4 and evaporation will lead to this. My brother lived in SD (following TFP guidelines), regularly added MA. Life of the beast in SD.

 

[TexEdmond]

7.6 to 7.8 48 hrs.

You're a lot better off than you might think. Keep forcing it down and it'll stabilize. I'm still curious about your fill water's alkalinity.

Late in the season last year I got tired of doing the yo-yo every 2-3 days between 7.2 and 8.2 so I just got to where it'd take about 20 oz of muriatic acid every day to keep things relatively stable at the CSI I wanted. By that time I had changed over to the SWG and needed to quit going too high into the 7s. This season I got on top of it early and things are easier. I might try to shove things down to 60ppm TA but I'm almost positive I won't be able to safely get to 50.

To your initial question, I doubt a small ripple is really doing anything to the aeration. Run a water feature or the spillway on your spa if you have one. Other folks turn their returns up to break the surface of the water. The more you can do to get it churned up the better. I have a fountain feature that'll increase the pH about 0.1 points per hour when I turn the pump on high RPM.