Advice on a few new parts

Scout101

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2015
245
North Kingstown, RI
Hey all! Been generally lucky for the past few years, but looks like this year, I'll be spending some money on pool parts! Haven't had to do a ton previously, but pool is of unknown age, somewhere between 10-15 years old, and things are starting to wear. Likely installed around 2008. Looking for any input/guidance as I start to grab parts.

1. Pool pump (currently Hayward SuperPump, 1.5hp). Actually working alright, but much louder and bit of a high pitched mechanical noise, I guessing maybe bearings are going bad? Usually much more quiet. Also decent amount of water underneath it on the pad, so guessing some seals aren't doing so hot. First question: Buy a replacement motor, or just buy a whole new pump? Given the age, inclined to buy a whole new thing, especially if some of the stuff wearing down in on the pump side and not the motor side. Can buy exact same model (SP2615x15), which should hopefully be plug and play instead of having to replumb anything. The plumbing already has quick disconnects on suction and filter sides, so can I assume that I can undo that, unscrew that connection from the pump housing, and transfer everything to the new one without needing more parts?

2. Diverter valve. Switches between Main Drain and Skimmers. When I put the handle back on yesterday, noticed that it doesn't go all the way to closed on either position, stopping like 15 degrees short on either side. Means I can't totally bypass either main drain or skimmers, although can cut the majority of it off. I don't use it to vacuum, so not a huge concern there, and usually have it like 20% main drain, 80% skimmer anyway, just weird that it won't let the handle get all the way to inline with the piping. Going to take this one apart, lube, and see what happens, but odd/new problem for me. If any damage, will try and just replace the guts before cutting out the whole thing; easier and not a ton of space for adding pipe inline junctions.

3. Salt cell. Knew this one was on it's way out, and it gave me more years than expected (it wasn't new looking when I moved in 6 summers ago). Already bought the direct TCell15 replacement, will install when SLAM is finished (figured I'd let the old one take the beating for that (although not plugged in/energized, obviously).

4. Check Valve. There's no check valves in my system, and assume that's bad. Was planning to add one just before the salt cell (between it and the heater). 2" PVC piping in that run. How far away from the salt cell should I be? Assume I'm looking for the 2" internal, 2.5" external, but what's a 'good' one to be looking at? Seem to be a lot of options here. Salt cell isn't transparent, so something I can see flow on would be good, plus obviously being able to see the flapper is a plus. With the salt cell, needs to be able to take a hit of chlorine as well. And seem to be a couple different spring weights (1/2lb and 2lb), what should I be looking for?

5. Heater. Needs it's own thread, but I've got a Hayward 300k btu gas heater that I've never used. Was told when I bought the house it had gas supply issues, and I've since had the meter upgraded, so that may be resolved, but I've never used it, have no idea how to, and looking at it, it's probably past it's prime anyway. Suspect this will need a pro to look at to see if it's repairable or just ready for replacement. Given the age, visual condition, that there's never been a check valve on the salt cell... can't imagine this is a winner. Will see what repairs vs. new does for me, but may at least need some advice for how to actually use it normally. Like I said, never even tried to turn it on, know nothing about it.

Been nice having the pool during lockdown, and with 2 young kids, they're of the right age to get max use out of this thing, so want to do it right and set myself up for another run of hopefully little/no repair bills :)

Thanks for any advice/help!
 
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Any thoughts? Still toying with the idea of buying a replacement motor, plus parts to do the gaskets and shaft seal and whatnot, but given that the rest of it isn't new either, may be better off doing the whole pump and getting fresh everything. With the noise the pump is making (not awful, but much louder and mechanical-sounding), would like to get something in the mail soon so it doesn't die while I'm waiting on parts. If I replace with same model, is it safe to assume I can reuse the threaded connection between pump housing and PVC piping, or do I need to buy new adapters? Very much don't want to take the old stuff apart and then find I'm down for a few days while I wait for more parts to arrive, but also don't want to buy stuff I definitely won't need... Noise continues and it's leaking from under the pump, so something's gotta happen. Not pouring out, but pad is consistently more than a little wet, somewhere just short of puddling. Replaced all of the seals/gaskets 2 years ago when it had a worse leak, and was dry since, but not so much now.

Only other 'urgent' one is the check valve, mostly because would like to order at the same time and get it installed while everything is down and I'm playing with the piping already. Need 2" inner diameter interfaces, but looking for input on brand, spring strength (seems to be 1/2lb or 2lb), and distance between the salt cell and heater (closer to the salt cell, split the difference somewhere, minimum it should be away from things, etc.).

Thanks!
 
1: I suggest a new, VSP pump.
2: Doesn't really matter. Post a pic of the valve. If it is a Jandy valve, they are rebuildable.
3: Get a new one, same type is easiest.
4: You do not need a check valve on a SWG system. You only need one on a tab feeder.
5: Have it checked by a professional is my suggestion. However, if it was me, I would just turn it on and see if it works.
 
1. New motor, or entirely new pump assembly? Was trying to keep it relatively simple on the swap out, but could at least do a more efficient motor I guess. In the north east, and aside from SLAM in the spring, don't run for more than 8 hours a day total, so think when I last looked at it, it would take a pretty long time to break even on the energy savings with a 1.5hp motor. Maybe they've gotten better. Either way, motor is sounding progressively worse, so wanna try and order something today if possible. Not confident that this one makes it the week that shipping will take...

2. Pics of pump, Diverter valve, and general setup (with salt cell and heater run visible). Not super worried about that one, as it is in a good position and moves most of the way, but will take apart later. Removed the screws, but didn't pry enough to open it up earlier and didn't want to break it while starting things up. Will open, inspect, and lube, see what that does, and if not, looks like guts are replaceable. In the pic, it's the lower valve at the t-junction. Below that is the main drain, skimmers are on the double up top, all feeding to the pump at the T.

3. Already bought and just waiting to put it on until I want to make chlorine again. Figured no reason to give it a SLAM bath before I even plug it in.

4. I don't hate the answer, but are you sure? Definitely get why a puck feeder would be much more concentrated, but most of the interwebs implied I ought to have one there, and even more so if I end up replacing the heater with a fresh one.

5. My issue is mostly that I've never seen it work and don't know anything about how to use it. Will google some manuals, but know the pool guys played with it briefly when opening a couple years ago, were struggling with it, and we all just sorta moved on since I was told that it had never really worked right (as part of house disclosure, but they said it was gas supply related, and new meter is definitely big enough to support even if previous may not have been). Going to play with it, and download a manual to try and sort it out, but gotta get everything else dialed back in before I worry about heat. Removing the cover shows a pretty corroded, tired looking interior/mechanicals, so not optimistic there, and ok if the end result means buying a new one (unless supply chain cluster of 2020/2021 means I can't get it until the far distant future)
 

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Also looks like there's a big cut over happening with pool pumps in July, so last call if I want to do a straight-up replacement... At the very least, think I'm going to buy a whole new pump, straight 1-1 with the Hayward SuperPump I have. That will get me all new internals, seals, etc and everything will be factory fresh. Intrigued by the variable speed thing, but It's also got electronics and one more thing to fail. I'm kinda of the mind to get the dumb, bulletproof one that doesn't do anything but spin, and let the automation controls I already have handle turning it on and off. Something to be said for KISS principle.
 
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A SWG only works when there is flow. So when the pump stops you would not have a situation where highly chlorinated water backs up into the heater because it stops producing chlorine at that point. With a tab feeder, tabs are always dissolving so when the pump stops water can and does back up into the heater. There is no harm adding a check valve in fact, I have one on my system directly after the heater output.

You could try just a new motor but if it is leaking elsewhere you might have other issues which eventually necessitate entire pump replacement. Try Inyopools they will have all the pump parts you need. Yes, replacing just the motor is easiest and cheapest.

Those valves look rebuildable. Usually you'd get either a valve rebuild kit or else just get the same valve and swap the parts. Again, Inyo will have those parts.

High chlorine will not hurt your SWG. Add it when convenient.

For the heater the "supply" issue may have been that the gas line to the heater was not sized properly. If you are unsure, call a gas-plumber to take a look and measure the gas pressure/volume at the heater. Usually they are able to work on and fix the heaters as well.
 
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2. Diverter valve. Switches between Main Drain and Skimmers. When I put the handle back on yesterday, noticed that it doesn't go all the way to closed on either position,...
Not sure if this holds true for Hayward valves, but covers on Jandy valves can be installed in the wrong position. On a Jandy valve, you would remove the screws on the cover and turn the cover clockwise until the screw holes align. Reinstall when clocked in the correct position.
 
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If I replace entire SuperPump assembly with a fresh one, no reason to expect I can't re-use the screw on fittings that join the pump to the piping, right? Use the quick disconnect and then unscrew from the pump housing? Already rebuilt the interior of this thing once, so kinda in favor of starting fresh and factory-good, and only having to screw on two pipe fittings and the 3 wires.

Roger on the salt cell, just wasn't in a hurry. Has quick-disconnects, so can pull it out when I do other work or am ready to turn it on.

For the valve, hoping it's rebuildable (or there's something stuck that can be removed or lubed). But looks like it should come apart, just didn't want to force it until I was ready. I'll have to see if I can find a part number, brand, something if I need parts. Don't think anyone's ever taken the cover off of it, just the handle when winterizing, so no reason it should be installed backwards. And the handle is keyed so it only goes on one way, so don't think that's in play either. Expect it's all Hayward stuff, as that seems to be true of all the parts in my lineup, so guess that's what the pool builder was pushing. Can't complain, it's all been good to me until now, and given suspected age, don't think any of it could be said to have failed prematurely...
 
Don't take apart the valve until you have at least a rebuild kit. Almost certainly the gaskets will need to be replaced and if not, it will leak. It could be that one of the internal gaskets is damaged and partially blocking the valve movement. Pretty common.
 
Forgot to add: Was buying a whole-house generator a couple weeks ago (for delivery some time in the far future, apparently) and mentioned that as he was checking out my gas meter and piping. Said the meter can definitely support the heater (and a big generator), and they wouldn't put that meter on the house if the pipe to the street couldn't support it. And then the flex pipe feeding the heater is sufficient size, so it's down to the heater itself or the piping in the last couple of feet where it transitions off of flex pipe and goes rigid, has a shutoff, etc. I'll play with it, but not until after the rest of the pool is up and good. Likely have to call the gas heater/pool guy and let the expert beat on it for a bit. Expecting him to tell me it's pooched and quote a new one, but while that's not cheap, it's not a deal breaker. Kids, wife, and inlaws all start complaining in late June, and again in late August, when the water drops below about 80-82 :)
 

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Don't take apart the valve until you have at least a rebuild kit. Almost certainly the gaskets will need to be replaced and if not, it will leak. It could be that one of the internal gaskets is damaged and partially blocking the valve movement. Pretty common.
That's exactly what it sounds like/feels like. And also why I didn't go any further at the moment, since it was in an operable position and where I'd want it anyway. I'm only losing the last 15 degrees or so on both sides, so can't quite isolate main drain or skimmers 100%. But moves freely between the two, and can also block both from getting to the pump. Maybe that gasket/o-ring on the blocker is coming free and binding internally. Will see what I can find for part numbers to buy a new kit.

Edit: this looks like the suspect right here: Hayward PSV Valves Parts - INYOPools.com
Not sure I'd need the whole rebuild kit (just the internal piece and the gaskets, but maybe buy the entire $94 kit and have spare parts, or if I damage the cover prying the old one off.

Already have a big thing of magic lube that's going on any part that gets reinstalled...
 
Forgot to add: Was buying a whole-house generator a couple weeks ago (for delivery some time in the far future, apparently) and mentioned that as he was checking out my gas meter and piping. Said the meter can definitely support the heater (and a big generator), and they wouldn't put that meter on the house if the pipe to the street couldn't support it. And then the flex pipe feeding the heater is sufficient size, so it's down to the heater itself or the piping in the last couple of feet where it transitions off of flex pipe and goes rigid, has a shutoff, etc. I'll play with it, but not until after the rest of the pool is up and good. Likely have to call the gas heater/pool guy and let the expert beat on it for a bit. Expecting him to tell me it's pooched and quote a new one, but while that's not cheap, it's not a deal breaker. Kids, wife, and inlaws all start complaining in late June, and again in late August, when the water drops below about 80-82 :)

I would not have anyone not certified to work on that heater do anything with it. Many "pool guys" have general knowledge of how to start things up but fall short when they need to fix things and as you surmised, will simply try to sell you a new one. A new gas heater will run you $4k-$5k installed. If you get a new one, go with a 400k btu if the gas supply will allow that. Your pool is too large for anything less.
 
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#4 - check valve. He's sure - you don't need one. The SWG shouldn't be energized when the pump is off, so there is no worries about chlorine produced by the SWG backing up into the heater.

Be sure whatever you do that the SWG is NOT powered when the pump is off (regardless if you have a heater or not). The SWG flow switch is a secondary safety feature - there needs to be a primary means to deactivate the SWG when the pump is off. This primary means is via a separate timer or via automation.
 
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I would not have anyone not certified to work on that heater do anything with it. Many "pool guys" have general knowledge of how to start things up but fall short when they need to fix things and as you surmised, will simply try to sell you a new one. A new gas heater will run you $4k-$5k installed. If you get a new one, go with a 400k btu if the gas supply will allow that. Your pool is too large for anything less.
Yeah, wasn't going to call my 'regular' pool guy, but a local company that does gas heating specifically (residential heat, pools, etc.). Goes by Gas Doctor, and their (faded) sticker is still on this heater, so assume they did initial installation.
 
#4 - check valve. He's sure - you don't need one. The SWG shouldn't be energized when the pump is off, so there is no worries about chlorine produced by the SWG backing up into the heater.

Be sure whatever you do that the SWG is NOT powered when the pump is off (regardless if you have a heater or not). The SWG flow switch is a secondary safety feature - there needs to be a primary means to deactivate the SWG when the pump is off. This primary means is via a separate timer or via automation.
Ok, was half-remembering a comment during initial inspection in 2015, and then internet, but not excited about putting one in if not required. And if the gas heater guy freaks, can toss $100 at one later.

SWG is run on same controller as the pump (AquaLogic, or something to that effect). Can't imagine that would allow SWG to be energized when pump is off, should all be in sync there. There is also a flow sensor there somewhere that should cut in, and everything leads back to the control panel. Was mostly just thinking of that slight movement of water when the SWG was generating, I turn it all off, and the chlorinated water wanders backwards slightly towards the heater. Can vaguely see the white control box behind the black fence on the wall in the 3rd pic.
 
The below is the rebuild kit for Jandy valves. The square gasket on the actual diverter is what usually fails inside the valve. The large oring is what you want at the minimum before you take it apart.

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Thanks, will check into the diverter more, but sounds like exactly the problem. Just ordered an entire pump assembly from inyopool; went with direct SuperPump replacement, having had good luck and roughly 13 years of service out of the previous setup (plus can mine existing one for potential spare parts).

That plus some diverter repair parts ought to get me up and back to ship shape, and can toss in the SWG when I get a chance. After that, time to explore the heater I guess. And some day I'd like to take apart the sand filter, but have been staying in the 'works well enough, don't make it worse' camp on that one so far.

On the plus side, having the best year yet from a chemistry perspective. Started the pump Saturday mid-afternoon, and everything's already visually clean, and only burned about 1/3rd a gallon of bleach overnight, so even that is progressing quickly. It's usually a 2-3 week battle for me to get through the initial SLAM, but so far so good. CC test shows me it's still killing stuff I can't see, but definitely feel ahead on the chemicals. As soon as I can make the pump whining noise stop, I'll be happy. It's also right outside the window of my home office, which is extra annoying these days :)
 
Ok, was half-remembering a comment during initial inspection in 2015, and then internet, but not excited about putting one in if not required. And if the gas heater guy freaks, can toss $100 at one later.

SWG is run on same controller as the pump (AquaLogic, or something to that effect). Can't imagine that would allow SWG to be energized when pump is off, should all be in sync there. There is also a flow sensor there somewhere that should cut in, and everything leads back to the control panel. Was mostly just thinking of that slight movement of water when the SWG was generating, I turn it all off, and the chlorinated water wanders backwards slightly towards the heater. Can vaguely see the white control box behind the black fence on the wall in the 3rd pic.
Actually, the SWG chlorinated water is only a few ppm higher than your pool water. If you hada tab feeder with tabs in it, the ppm would be much higher in the feeder if there was no water flow. That is why a tab feeder needs a check valve with a heater in the mix.

You may want to consider a heater bypass though. Since many heaters restrict the flow, having a bypass allows full flow. And it also allows you to work on the heater while still having flow thru the bypass to the pool.

The flow switch is the SECONDARY safety mesure and should NOT be relied on shut down the SWG when the pump is off. You have automation - and if wired correctly, it should shut the SWG off when the pump shuts off. The automation is the PRIMARY safety device to remove power from the SWG.
 
annoying how expensive the Hayward rebuild kits are for the valves. Jandy ones are like $25, Hayward seem to be anywhere between 60-105 for the kit (inyopools wants 94 for theirs). Only 105 for the entire valve, WITH all of the parts, so weird it's only a couple bucks more for the entire assembly. Oh well, that's what I've got, so will order one of those from one of the safer looking $60 places I guess.
 

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