We recently had a pool installed. The pump will be set in a garage that is not built yet. The pool crew said we would use a “hillbilly pump” until the foundation of the garage is complete. I have no idea what this means but the pump is sitting next to the house and seems to be running. After they finished the install, the pool crew went on vacation across the country and I had NO IDEA what to do with this pool. Before I found TFP, I had a HTH test kit that I used and followed the instructions on the app. I finally got everything in range per the HTH strips. I discovered TFP a few days ago and have been trying to learn everything I possibly can. I have read just about everything in pool school and I think I have a pretty good understanding of the basics. I ordered a TF-Pro today. Until it gets here, is there anything I should do? ..or just hope for the best and wait for my TF-Pro to arrive?
ABSOLUTE BEGINNER
- Thread starter ajbmtb
- Start date
- May 30, 2020
- 227
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Welcome to the Forum ! Until the staff gets to you, consider Creating a Signature for your profile. That will help tailor the answers you seek. Good choice on the TF-100 test kit. That's a great start. 
OH yeah, until the test kit comes, you'll probably want to add 5 ppm liquid chlorine each day...
OH yeah, until the test kit comes, you'll probably want to add 5 ppm liquid chlorine each day...
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,507
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Add 3ppm of liquid chlorine a day. Nothing else.
Post up test results when you get them.
I’ve been adding the chlorine and waiting patiently on my test kit. Still no shipping notification from TFTestkits. Does anyone know how long it usually takes for the kits to arrive?
I have absolutely no idea what to do with this pump. It has been running constantly for over a week now. Is this ok?
I have absolutely no idea what to do with this pump. It has been running constantly for over a week now. Is this ok?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Also, check your Spam email folder. A lot of times "apparently unsolicited" messages get routed to Spam by most major email vendors.
Running the pump 24/7 is not an issue, although your electric bill may take a bit of a hit. Some pumps have variable speeds, to save energy. Unclear what a "hillbilly pump" means - I'd assume it is in a temporary location, to be replumbed/moved when the garage is completed. As noted, listing your equipment brand/models- pump, filter, heater (if any), etc. will help in giving better information. Posting a picture of the current equipment and the surrounding pipes, if possible would help if there are any concerns about the current setup. Besides keeping your chlorine levels up, make sure the skimmers don't have leaves/junk in them - just empty the removeable baskets. The pump also has a removeable basket for catching stuff - "how to clean" gets a bit more specific depending on what make/model pump you have.
What else to do depends on how long the crew will be gone, and how dirty your pool is - cloudy water or not, lots of dirt on the bottom or not, what filter you have, and what accessories you have (long pole, brush, vacuum head/hose, if there is a pool cleaner, etc.). And, of course, what your chemistry is, once you get your test kit.
What else to do depends on how long the crew will be gone, and how dirty your pool is - cloudy water or not, lots of dirt on the bottom or not, what filter you have, and what accessories you have (long pole, brush, vacuum head/hose, if there is a pool cleaner, etc.). And, of course, what your chemistry is, once you get your test kit.
Test kit showed up this morning!
PH: 8.2
FC: 10
CC: 0.5
CH: 175
TA: 160
CYA: 0? Tube was full and I could still see black dot at bottom.
I’m guessing the chlorine is so high because my husband dumped three 1 lb bags of cal hypo last night because he ran out of bleach. I have already given him a lecture about this and he will only be using liquid chlorine from now on! Any advice on where I should go from here?
The water looks great. Completely clear. I have been using the Dolphin Liberty and it has been keeping the bottom very clean. Have emptied the skimmers every day.
Will post pics of pump set up ASAP!
PH: 8.2
FC: 10
CC: 0.5
CH: 175
TA: 160
CYA: 0? Tube was full and I could still see black dot at bottom.
I’m guessing the chlorine is so high because my husband dumped three 1 lb bags of cal hypo last night because he ran out of bleach. I have already given him a lecture about this and he will only be using liquid chlorine from now on! Any advice on where I should go from here?
The water looks great. Completely clear. I have been using the Dolphin Liberty and it has been keeping the bottom very clean. Have emptied the skimmers every day.
Will post pics of pump set up ASAP!
Here are pics of the pump. The tubes are running to the set up where the permanent pump will be. Included a pic of the heater but this will not be up and running until the pump is permanently set. This is the cloudiest the water has been since the install and I am starting to panic! There seems to be the right amount of water in the pool but I am hearing a slurping/gurgling sound at times from the skimmers? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,507
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Reduce your pH to 7.8 in .4 increments. After your first addition of muriatic acid for a .4 drop, retest after 30 minutes. Repeat until you get to 7.6-7.8.
With a TA of 160, you will be using a fair bit of muriatic acid, maybe even daily to keep your pH down. Just keep pH in the 7s...and you will be fine.
I'd get 30ppm of dry chlorine stabilizer in the pool. Use a sock, fill it, tie it up and hang it carrot on stick style in front of a return. After 30 minutes, start squeezing.
I would do this test tonight. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Post a picture looking down into the skimmer.
With a TA of 160, you will be using a fair bit of muriatic acid, maybe even daily to keep your pH down. Just keep pH in the 7s...and you will be fine.
I'd get 30ppm of dry chlorine stabilizer in the pool. Use a sock, fill it, tie it up and hang it carrot on stick style in front of a return. After 30 minutes, start squeezing.
I would do this test tonight. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Post a picture looking down into the skimmer.
Cal Hypo can make the water a bit cloudy, because it also contributes calcium carbonate, which doesn't dissolve quickly. You can search the forums for "cloudy call hypo" for a bit more from others. You may get sediment from it - just brush to keep it in suspension until it dissolves. Your CH readings may go up, but not to any level to worry about. If used in the future, it is usually recommended to pre-dissolve in a bucket first, although that won't always prevent temporary cloudiness. Pre-dissolving will prevent chlorine damage to the liner if straight powder is just dumped in, though. Calcium Hypochlorite - Further Reading
Pool level looks correct. Is the sound perhaps the door on the side of the skimmer opening/closing due to waves? From the top, does it look like the skimmer is not always sucking just water (especially if the "door" closes)? In the clear part of the pump, are there any air bubbles?
I got my pH down yesterday and it was 7.8 when I checked this morning.
I could only fit 2# of dry stabilizer in the sock. It was completely dissolved when I checked this morning. Should I wait a few days and check CYA again or keep hanging until I get the recommended amount (6#) in? I am afraid I will get my CYA too high and have to drain water after I have somehow managed to keep the pool in half way decent shape!
The OCLT was perfect! FC was 2.5 at 9P last night and 2.5 at 7A this morning. CC 0.5 at both checks!
I posted a pic looking down into the skimmer. When I hear that sound, there is a mini cyclone out in front of the skimmer. It is not constant.
I wish there was some way I could explain how thankful I am for all of your help. I was completely lost and I finally feel like I am starting to catch on. Maybe one day I will be able to help an "absolute beginner" and pay it forward. I truly appreciate all of your help and look forward to hearing where you think I should go from here!
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We greatly appreciate paying it forward by either helping, or a donation to help ensure we are here the next time you need it, or somebody else does and we are still here for you to help with us.
You can always use multiple socks.
I would have gone 75% and let it register before proceeding further. Get another 2 lb sock going because 2/3 of the suggested amount is a convenient #.
Keep an eye on the FC. It will burn off quickly until the CYA gets to 30. And by quickly, I'm talking 2 hours, maybe less.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,507
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Check that your weir door is functioning properly and not getting hung up/stuck.
I just made a donation and I will continue to support when I am able to!We greatly appreciate paying it forward by either helping, or a donation to help ensure we are here the next time you need it, or somebody else does and we are still here for you to help with us.
You can always use multiple socks.
I would have gone 75% and let it register before proceeding further. Get another 2 lb sock going because 2/3 of the suggested amount is a convenient #.
Keep an eye on the FC. It will burn off quickly until the CYA gets to 30. And by quickly, I'm talking 2 hours, maybe less.
I just got my second sock going. When it dissolves, I will have a total of 4# dry stabilizer in (about 75% of the recommended amount). I will hold there and recheck in a few days!
Can I watch the FC with the basic color matching test now or do I need to continue the FAS-DPD testing until my CYA is definitely up to 30? I am 100% certain that I am doing both tests correctly and the basic test matched closest to 0.5 FC but the FAS-DPD showed FC at 2.5 this morning. I got a cup of water and brought inside to test so both samples were done on the exact same water.
If there is no air in the clear part of the pump, I would not worry about the slurping sound at all. If it bugs you, try partially closing the valve that controls the plumbing for that skimmer a little to reduce the amount of water being sucked out of that skimmer to see if it goes away (it will increase what comes from the others and the main drains).
Me? I always just do the FAS-DPD test, as I'm kind of obsessed with the numbers, and want them to be as refined as possible. The color match seems to vague to me. BUT, many many others like the convenience of that one, so fine to switch to that and reserve the other for when you're not sure or think you may be out of range.
Me? I always just do the FAS-DPD test, as I'm kind of obsessed with the numbers, and want them to be as refined as possible. The color match seems to vague to me. BUT, many many others like the convenience of that one, so fine to switch to that and reserve the other for when you're not sure or think you may be out of range.
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No air in the pump and the sound doesn't bother me. I just wanted to be sure there wasn't a bigger issue!
Thank you!
Ok GREAT.
The comparator is never a FC test. It is a 'do I have chlorine ?' test with a wide test variance (error) below 4ppm. At 4+, it simply isnt accurate because the industry never wants you above that. But we respect the FC/CYA relationship and you'll never be *below* 4 FC unless you want a swamp.
With a fresh fill and no other CYA additives we actually know (for once) your start point was 0. From here on out, there will always be a question if what looks like 0 is actually 10 or even 20. But once that 2nd sock is soaking, count your current CYA level as 20.
Minimum sound OK but it is a cliff you do not wish to lose your footing near. Target range accounts for a swing in daily FC loss that is less in the spring/fall and more in peak summer. Everyday you target dose for
Minimum+
Recent daily FC loss+
1 or 2 insurance FC.
You will test and see what the current FC is, then dose back to the target needed for that point in the season, per my math above.
Anywho, the 2.5 FC was fine for 0 CYA but you're well on your way to 30 and need to jack the FC target accordingly. As such, the comparator block is no longer valid.
However, when you have a high single digit FC, you can use the hard yellow color shown to prove that you have enough FC to last until tomorrow. Around 10 and up the sample goes orange and same thing. You can't say how much FC you have, but you know it's 'enough for at least today' with a CYA of 30.
Nothing makes us happier because it means we did our job right.
We're all volunteers here, the only thing I get out of it is that I don't have to find a new hobby. I don't want to have to find a new hobby, so THANKS.
My pool looks absolutely AMAZING.
I kept my FC at 6 (mid target) all weekend. I am testing more than I need to, but I am trying to learn how things change. Im understanding a bit more each day.
I was not able to test as often today and my FC had dropped to 2.5 when I got home. I corrected it immediately, but I’m not sure how long I was out of range. Is this something that could cause a problem? Tomorrow, I may not be able to test at all because concrete is being poured around the pool. I suppose I could test when I leave for work, but that will be before the sun is up so I don’t see much point in checking then. Should I go higher than the target suggests just to be safe? ..or is the high end of target range a hard max?
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