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Thread: Re-Training for a TFP (Un-stablized Chlorine)...

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Prosper, Texas
    Posts
    1

    Re-Training for a TFP (Un-stablized Chlorine)...

    My first post to TFP, and after dealing with a frustrating Mustard Algae issue since August, to no avail that un-sighlty Algae issue has returned. Since inception I have done the pool checmicals and cleaning myself and have learned quite a bit about pool maitenance. Since reading multiple posts, TFP has enlighten me to take it up a notch, and not use the standard chemicals that the local pool store sells to their customers. Since my pool has been installed I have been completely frustrated with the rising level of CYA and the stabilized chlorine's, no more "Hockey Pucks," that makes balancing the pool frustrating.

    I know that I need to lower my CYA, before having a successful SLAM to get my CYA down into the 40 to 50 PPM range and I currently use the Taylor 2005 test kit for three years now, and currently waiting for Taylor K-1515-A - Drop Test to arrive. I am assuming based upon my thread readings that is the complimentary test kit to what I am currently using? Since I have been maintaining my own pool maintenance, I know I will have to re-trained in some areas too get my pool to a TFP. Therefore before diving into the deep end I have several questions to get me to that point...

    Q1) Since I will be SLAM'ing, will I have enough regents in the Test Kit or should I order more? If I need to order more, can you tell me what Regent #'s are needed to order the correct additional regents for the FAS/DSP test?

    Q2) When SLAMing, how often should I be checking the FC up to the shock FC# based off my the CYA? Then maintain that acceptable range of FC of 4 to 7ppm when SLAMing is complete…

    Q3) Upon a successful SLAMing, how often on daily or weekly basis should you evaluate your pool chemicals, thereby not making a daily chore to keep the pool balanced? When using Bleach or Chlorine, and when the pool is in check of the FC range that I wish to accomplish of FC 4 to 7ppm, should I assume that my CC should always be 1 to 0 ppm? Do you prefer sodium Hypo (bleach) or Lithium Hypo?

    Q4) How often should I check the pool chemicals in Texas non-swimming months verse Texas Swimming months?

    Q4) What is OCLT that I keep reading about?

    Q5) I currently have a Nature 2 Fusion Duo Clear Cartridge that has the Chlorine tablet dispenser all encased into one unit. Will I need to remove the DuoCleaner Cartridge as it could cause or fight against a TFP reccomended pool chemical levels?

    By the way … great web site for "Do it Your-salvers (LTWS)"
    10Kgal/Quartz surface/Pentair Cartridge filter/Hayward Tristar 2 speed 2HP pump/Fusion Sanitize system-DuoClean Cartridge/Built June2012/Taylor2005

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Charlie_R's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Mexico, MO
    Posts
    2,156

    Re: Re-Training for a TFP (Un-stablized Chlorine)...

    Welcome to TFP!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jrdavi1 View Post
    My first post to TFP, and after dealing with a frustrating Mustard Algae issue since August, to no avail that un-sighlty Algae issue has returned. Since inception I have done the pool checmicals and cleaning myself and have learned quite a bit about pool maitenance. Since reading multiple posts, TFP has enlighten me to take it up a notch, and not use the standard chemicals that the local pool store sells to their customers. Since my pool has been installed I have been completely frustrated with the rising level of CYA and the stabilized chlorine's, no more "Hockey Pucks," that makes balancing the pool frustrating.

    I know that I need to lower my CYA, before having a successful SLAM to get my CYA down into the 40 to 50 PPM range and I currently use the Taylor 2005 test kit for three years now, and currently waiting for Taylor K-1515-A - Drop Test to arrive. I am assuming based upon my thread readings that is the complimentary test kit to what I am currently using? Since I have been maintaining my own pool maintenance, I know I will have to re-trained in some areas too get my pool to a TFP. Therefore before diving into the deep end I have several questions to get me to that point...

    Q1) Since I will be SLAM'ing, will I have enough regents in the Test Kit or should I order more? If I need to order more, can you tell me what Regent #'s are needed to order the correct additional regents for the FAS/DSP test?

    Yes, you will probably need more reagents for the FAS-DPD kit. Best place to get them is http://tftestkits.net

    Q2) When SLAMing, how often should I be checking the FC up to the shock FC# based off my the CYA? Then maintain that acceptable range of FC of 4 to 7ppm when SLAMing is complete…

    You should test as often as you can, every hour or two at the start. It is suggested that you start your SLAM on a friday afternoon, assuming you work M-F. That way you have the weekend to get through the first most intensive phase on the SLAM.

    Q3) Upon a successful SLAMing, how often on daily or weekly basis should you evaluate your pool chemicals, thereby not making a daily chore to keep the pool balanced? When using Bleach or Chlorine, and when the pool is in check of the FC range that I wish to accomplish of FC 4 to 7ppm, should I assume that my CC should always be 1 to 0 ppm? Do you prefer sodium Hypo (bleach) or Lithium Hypo?

    It would be a good idea to do your testing and dosing on a daily basis for a few months, as you get to know your pool's personality. Keep records of your testing and dosing to aid in learning your pool. Once you know how your pool reacts to various things, like bather load, weather, etc., you will be able to relax your pool care a bit. Once you get the hang of it, testing should only take a few minutes, plus the time it takes to brush/vacuum your pool as needed.

    Q4) How often should I check the pool chemicals in Texas non-swimming months verse Texas Swimming months?

    That depends entirely on your pool's personality. Too many variables to give a guess.

    Q4) What is OCLT that I keep reading about?

    the OCLT is outlined in Pool School, and is how you can tell when you are through with your SLAM.

    Q5) I currently have a Nature 2 Fusion Duo Clear Cartridge that has the Chlorine tablet dispenser all encased into one unit. Will I need to remove the DuoCleaner Cartridge as it could cause or fight against a TFP reccomended pool chemical levels?

    Removal of the mineral cartridge would go a long way to helping you achieve your goal of a TFP.

    By the way … great web site for "Do it Your-salvers (LTWS)"
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Divin Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Longview, Texas
    Posts
    4,926

    Re: Re-Training for a TFP (Un-stablized Chlorine)...

    A1 You wont have enough in the Taylor Kit. At TFtestkits.net, get the following regents
    R0871 and R0870

    A2 What Charlie said. Every hour hour or so to start or as often as you possibly can. If you can keep the FC at Slam Level or slightly above, it will go faster. The first few days will set the pace. If at the first you can test and dose every hour or so, you will be wayyyy ahead.

    A3 What Charlie said... You will need to test FC and PH every day and dose accordingly. The others you can test for every few days until you learn you pool and how it reacts to different contidions and weather. FC dosing will always be a daily chore from Spring through Fall. Many people use a dosing pump or SWG to take care of this chore.

    You should not ASSUME anything. Test for it. Your CC should always be below .5, it it gets higher, then its an indication that there may be something going an in the water and futher testing should be done.

    Use only liquid Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach or liquid pool shock) if you dose via a dosing pump or manually.
    Lithium hypo will add other chemicals to the water which can lead to different issues down the road should those "other" chemical additions cause other parameters to get too high. Best to just Only Add What Is Needed when dosing the pool.

    A4 What Charlie said... It Depends on the water temp and your local conditions during the non swimming season. I am also in Texas and I test for FC until the water temp gets down to 50, at which point, its about too cold for algae to grow.

    OCLT is the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. FC drop is only caused by being burned off by the sun, or in teh process of fighting off organics (algae or whatever). In order to know if you have any organics that eats up your FC, then you have to eliminate the burn off from the sun as a source of FC loss. So, if you test your FC after the sun is down, and then test again in the a.m. before it comes up.... and you have FC loss of more than 1ppm, then there are organics in the water consuming your FC and you need to SLAM. Your OCLT FC loss should not be more than 1 ppm.
    (the OCLT would be the next test to do if you have CC greater than .5, as mentioned above)

    hope this helps,


    Quote Originally Posted by Jrdavi1 View Post
    My first post to TFP, and after dealing with a frustrating Mustard Algae issue since August, to no avail that un-sighlty Algae issue has returned. Since inception I have done the pool checmicals and cleaning myself and have learned quite a bit about pool maitenance. Since reading multiple posts, TFP has enlighten me to take it up a notch, and not use the standard chemicals that the local pool store sells to their customers. Since my pool has been installed I have been completely frustrated with the rising level of CYA and the stabilized chlorine's, no more "Hockey Pucks," that makes balancing the pool frustrating.

    I know that I need to lower my CYA, before having a successful SLAM to get my CYA down into the 40 to 50 PPM range and I currently use the Taylor 2005 test kit for three years now, and currently waiting for Taylor K-1515-A - Drop Test to arrive. I am assuming based upon my thread readings that is the complimentary test kit to what I am currently using? Since I have been maintaining my own pool maintenance, I know I will have to re-trained in some areas too get my pool to a TFP. Therefore before diving into the deep end I have several questions to get me to that point...

    Q1) Since I will be SLAM'ing, will I have enough regents in the Test Kit or should I order more? If I need to order more, can you tell me what Regent #'s are needed to order the correct additional regents for the FAS/DSP test?

    Q2) When SLAMing, how often should I be checking the FC up to the shock FC# based off my the CYA? Then maintain that acceptable range of FC of 4 to 7ppm when SLAMing is complete…

    Q3) Upon a successful SLAMing, how often on daily or weekly basis should you evaluate your pool chemicals, thereby not making a daily chore to keep the pool balanced? When using Bleach or Chlorine, and when the pool is in check of the FC range that I wish to accomplish of FC 4 to 7ppm, should I assume that my CC should always be 1 to 0 ppm? Do you prefer sodium Hypo (bleach) or Lithium Hypo?

    Q4) How often should I check the pool chemicals in Texas non-swimming months verse Texas Swimming months?

    Q4) What is OCLT that I keep reading about?

    Q5) I currently have a Nature 2 Fusion Duo Clear Cartridge that has the Chlorine tablet dispenser all encased into one unit. Will I need to remove the DuoCleaner Cartridge as it could cause or fight against a TFP reccomended pool chemical levels?

    By the way … great web site for "Do it Your-salvers (LTWS)"
    Divin Dave,
    IG Vinyl, 15' x 30', 3 1/2' - 6' deep, Oval, ~15K gal, Intelliclor IC40, Intelliflo VS pump, Clean and Clear 420 Filter, auto-fill-disabled, Retrofit LED Color Light, Dolphin Nautilus Robot, TF100 Test Kit, Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit, Tftestkit Pressure Gauge.
    www.tftestkits.net Experience- it's what's learned just after you needed it most !!

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