New pool owner here so go easy on me. I'll answer the best I can.
Bought a house with a pool. Went through pool school with a company here, read pool school here. (Awesome site, by the way...learned more here than any other place combined without having to create my own thread...until now!) A new heater and salt cell installed on the pool a week before I took possession but the water was awful so I drained and refilled on the advice of my pool school guy and my own peace of mind. After a little over a week I was comfortable with where I had the water. pH was continuing to rise and I was fighting it, but the other numbers looked acceptable, at least to a newbie.
Pool is PebbleTec with a T-15 SWG. Roughly 20K gallon play pool, though I haven't had time to measure each individual section down to a degree.
I had the pool tested on Saturday. I'm not sure I'm completely buying their results but here is what they had:
FC - 3
TC - 3
Salt - 2600
CYA - 20
TA - 70
ph - 8.0
I'm doubting the salt is that low as I've never had a reading that low from anyone else and my display unit read 3000 to 3300 consistently. The pH number sounds right...I've been fighting it with MA, bringing the pH down and then having it rise again as my alkalinity dropped (when I opened the pool the TA was at 220). Their TA number is also lower than I was seeing in my own testing, but it was continuing to drop as I added acid.
Sunday is when the problems started. I had a "Chlorinator Off High Salt/Amps" error on my control unit. Looked it up and found the issue was likely a burnt/broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. Had to leave town until the next day and on Monday night it had turned into a "No Cell Power" error, which appears to need the same fix as the first error.
Attempted to fix it last night using the fix seen by so many others online by resoldering the post. It didn't work but I'm a terrible at soldering so it's possible I just didn't do it right. It's also possible the K1 is fried, which I don't have any equipment to confirm. Praying I don't have to buy a new board.
I just tested the pool:
pH - 7.7
Alk - 90
Chlorine - maybe 0.5 for both FC and TC, at most.
I don't have a kit that does CYA because I haven't been smart enough to buy the kit from this site yet.
After the long winded intro, my two questions. My chlorine levels have dropped to almost immeasurable (both FC and TC) and I don't want to lose the pool, so....
1) It is harmful to run water through the SWG when it has no power? It is less than two months old and I'd hate to wreck it.
2) Can I add chlorine or bleach myself to keep the pool sanitized until I get can this fixed?
I'm going to take another stab at fixing the K1 relay connection or possibly replacing the relay itself but I want to make sure I don't leave myself in a hole if it takes me a couple of days to do it.
Any advice is appreciated.
Bought a house with a pool. Went through pool school with a company here, read pool school here. (Awesome site, by the way...learned more here than any other place combined without having to create my own thread...until now!) A new heater and salt cell installed on the pool a week before I took possession but the water was awful so I drained and refilled on the advice of my pool school guy and my own peace of mind. After a little over a week I was comfortable with where I had the water. pH was continuing to rise and I was fighting it, but the other numbers looked acceptable, at least to a newbie.
Pool is PebbleTec with a T-15 SWG. Roughly 20K gallon play pool, though I haven't had time to measure each individual section down to a degree.
I had the pool tested on Saturday. I'm not sure I'm completely buying their results but here is what they had:
FC - 3
TC - 3
Salt - 2600
CYA - 20
TA - 70
ph - 8.0
I'm doubting the salt is that low as I've never had a reading that low from anyone else and my display unit read 3000 to 3300 consistently. The pH number sounds right...I've been fighting it with MA, bringing the pH down and then having it rise again as my alkalinity dropped (when I opened the pool the TA was at 220). Their TA number is also lower than I was seeing in my own testing, but it was continuing to drop as I added acid.
Sunday is when the problems started. I had a "Chlorinator Off High Salt/Amps" error on my control unit. Looked it up and found the issue was likely a burnt/broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. Had to leave town until the next day and on Monday night it had turned into a "No Cell Power" error, which appears to need the same fix as the first error.
Attempted to fix it last night using the fix seen by so many others online by resoldering the post. It didn't work but I'm a terrible at soldering so it's possible I just didn't do it right. It's also possible the K1 is fried, which I don't have any equipment to confirm. Praying I don't have to buy a new board.
I just tested the pool:
pH - 7.7
Alk - 90
Chlorine - maybe 0.5 for both FC and TC, at most.
I don't have a kit that does CYA because I haven't been smart enough to buy the kit from this site yet.
After the long winded intro, my two questions. My chlorine levels have dropped to almost immeasurable (both FC and TC) and I don't want to lose the pool, so....
1) It is harmful to run water through the SWG when it has no power? It is less than two months old and I'd hate to wreck it.
2) Can I add chlorine or bleach myself to keep the pool sanitized until I get can this fixed?
I'm going to take another stab at fixing the K1 relay connection or possibly replacing the relay itself but I want to make sure I don't leave myself in a hole if it takes me a couple of days to do it.
Any advice is appreciated.