There is one screw holding in the light. No seal. The fixture comes out as a sealed unit.
Going it alone. Need help.
- Thread starter simonmoll
- Start date
There should be a screw or something securing the light. Undo it, then tilt the light out and remove it. It will have a long enough cord coiled up behind it to allow you to set the whole liftout part on the adjacent deck. Assuming it was installed properly.
Three weeks of a crystal clear pool since the last SLAM.
I would add a pic but upload fails each time...maybe file is too big?
Today 7 am
FC 3.5 added 30oz 5.25%
PH 7.6
CC <.5
TA 70
CH 420 this was 350 a month ago???
CYA 35-40
On average I put in about 40oz of 5.25% bleach per day which seems ok from other threads. A 128 oz bottle costs me about US$3.
I am thinking of increasing the CYA to around 50 to reduce amount of bleach I use. I have some left over tablets. How many would I need to use to get CYA up to 50?
Also I cannot see from other threads if there is another way of reducing CH as water is VERY expensive here.
I would add a pic but upload fails each time...maybe file is too big?Today 7 am
FC 3.5 added 30oz 5.25%
PH 7.6
CC <.5
TA 70
CH 420 this was 350 a month ago???
CYA 35-40
On average I put in about 40oz of 5.25% bleach per day which seems ok from other threads. A 128 oz bottle costs me about US$3.
I am thinking of increasing the CYA to around 50 to reduce amount of bleach I use. I have some left over tablets. How many would I need to use to get CYA up to 50?
Also I cannot see from other threads if there is another way of reducing CH as water is VERY expensive here.
At the bottom of Poolmath there is Effects of Adding Chemicals. You can see what each ounce of trichlor will do to your chemistry. Just keep raising the amount until you see the CYA change you desire. But also note what it will do to your pH; it won't do it all at once, of course, but you will be driving pH and TA down constantly, so expect to need to adjust them.
There's only two ways to lower CH; drain it and replace it, or reverse osmosis. Since RO is only available in two markets in the US, I doubt it's available in Barbados. 420 is easily manageable, just keep your eye on the CSI calculated by poolmath. Your low TA is helpful there. If you get any rain, grab what you can for the pool, since it has no Calcium.
There's only two ways to lower CH; drain it and replace it, or reverse osmosis. Since RO is only available in two markets in the US, I doubt it's available in Barbados. 420 is easily manageable, just keep your eye on the CSI calculated by poolmath. Your low TA is helpful there. If you get any rain, grab what you can for the pool, since it has no Calcium.
You can use a free photo hosting site like PhotoBucket.com to upload pics. Then simply copy/paste img code in your post.
I did not read all, but what is the CH of your expensive fill water?
You are not/have not been using any cal-hypo, right?
You can calculate the amount of CYA per puck in PoolMath. After you add gallons, scroll down to "effects of adding chemicals".
- - - Updated - - -
sorry for some duplicate info.....Richard is fast
I did not read all, but what is the CH of your expensive fill water?
You are not/have not been using any cal-hypo, right?
You can calculate the amount of CYA per puck in PoolMath. After you add gallons, scroll down to "effects of adding chemicals".
- - - Updated - - -
sorry for some duplicate info.....Richard is fast
OK thanks.
My PH shot up from 7.6 two days ago to 8.2 this morning and the PH seems to be continually rising and I am going through a fair amount of MAcid. Any thoughts on why?
My PH shot up from 7.6 two days ago to 8.2 this morning and the PH seems to be continually rising and I am going through a fair amount of MAcid. Any thoughts on why?
No. Straightforward pool as per photo.
And went green yesterday so I spoke too soon!
And went green yesterday so I spoke too soon!
Some remarks.
The chlorine has a variable efficiency depending of Ph. The efficiency decreases with the increase of Ph so that above 7.8 has very little killing power. The closer you maintain the water to Ph 7.2 the better the chlorine can kill your algae.
In every swimming pool there are "dead zones" with very little water circulation. The critical areas are usually in the corners, stairs, and so on. The southern midday sun in Barbados will most likely remove the chlorine from these areas with little water flow, therefore the daily scrubbing and vacuuming is recommended even if the walls are clean.
In your struggle with the algae, it is possible to tip the odds in your favor with a pool cover that reduces substantially the amount of sunlight that reaches the water. The growth rates of any algae depends on the light available. Take away the light and you will have a much smaller problem.
The chlorine has a variable efficiency depending of Ph. The efficiency decreases with the increase of Ph so that above 7.8 has very little killing power. The closer you maintain the water to Ph 7.2 the better the chlorine can kill your algae.
In every swimming pool there are "dead zones" with very little water circulation. The critical areas are usually in the corners, stairs, and so on. The southern midday sun in Barbados will most likely remove the chlorine from these areas with little water flow, therefore the daily scrubbing and vacuuming is recommended even if the walls are clean.
In your struggle with the algae, it is possible to tip the odds in your favor with a pool cover that reduces substantially the amount of sunlight that reaches the water. The growth rates of any algae depends on the light available. Take away the light and you will have a much smaller problem.
This is not true when there is ANY CYA in the water. Anything in the 7s and the chlorine effectiveness is nearly the same. Plus, when the FC > 10ppm you can not accurately test the pH.
See similar discussion HERE and if you want to discuss further, start your own thread. Thanks.
So I slammed pool and caught it early so should be ok.
The FC had never gone below 3 and CC was 0. So bit stumped as to why it started to go green.
It is true that the algae I first saw was at the bottom of the wall on the side of the pool below the jets (there are three along that side of the pool two on one short end of the pool and none on the other two sides). So it is possible that there is less circulation there.
Also I had not scrubbed or vacuumed for a while. Lazy.
Or maybe the PH had gone up to 8+ and the chlorine was not able to work so well?
The FC had never gone below 3 and CC was 0. So bit stumped as to why it started to go green.
It is true that the algae I first saw was at the bottom of the wall on the side of the pool below the jets (there are three along that side of the pool two on one short end of the pool and none on the other two sides). So it is possible that there is less circulation there.
Also I had not scrubbed or vacuumed for a while. Lazy.
Or maybe the PH had gone up to 8+ and the chlorine was not able to work so well?
Forget the pH vs chlorine effectiveness nonsense. Likely circulation and lack of brushing.