Tips to make the Liquidator liveable.....

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Just a few things.

Here are my #s

FC 7
CC 0
pH 7.4
Alk 80
CYA 40
No borates
CH 280

Tons of white stuff.

Been running 6 gallons of 12% @ a flow of ~"3" for the last 12 days and needed to refill yesterday. It was holding my FC just fine. Decided to empty, clean it up and refill. The outflow from the LQ was significantly narrowed with white stuff . I made a big mistake though....I TRANSFERRED THE ENTIRE VOLUME OF WATER FROM THE LQ INTO THE POOL!!! DO NOT DO THIS!! There was still some chlorine in the bottom and I didn't want to waste all that water. The pool completely clouded. I ran the numbers and found my pH went through the roof. Took a ton of MA to get it in check. Lessons learned.
 
Since that picture, I have drilled a second suction hole which the pH Adjuster is now connected. I eliminated the "T" in favor of two independent connection for each tank. Likewise, I have two connections on the pressure side which feeds the tanks.
 
Sabot said:
Since that picture, I have drilled a second suction hole which the pH Adjuster is now connected. I eliminated the "T" in favor of two independent connection for each tank. Likewise, I have two connections on the pressure side which feeds the tanks.
Click to expand...

What about white deposit on any part of the outlet float valve?
Nothing at all?
 
Sabot said:
No calcium build up at all. Strange, for we have well water which is very hard water.
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It has been reported that permanent magnets help prevent scaling without actually changing the hardness of the water. Devices that contain permanent magnets have been used by homeowners with well water in order to combat water hardness without actual softening.
Sabot, are you familiar with the entire plumbing system of your home, including the feed line from the well?
Is it possible that the previous owner of your home (if there was one) had installed something that you don't know about?
Finally , are there any strong magnetic fields near your pool plumbing system?
With all the high tech gear your system is equipped with, who knows?
Maybe you have a new phenomenon called "The Sabot effect on preventing scaling"? :wink:
 
Da Sabot Effect? :shock: My wife does say that I am a fanatic about keeping the pool clean and the chemicals balanced. I believe in the 15 minute a day caring for my pool will keep my pool clean rule. Testing takes only 5 minutes. Cruzmisl is the true veteran, he has had his unit installed the longest (going on 2 years?) .

We built our house eleven years ago and we don't believe in the magnet theory thus we went with a traditional water softener (which has been broken for about a year). I don’t feel there is anything special about our area for aliens have been avoiding. ;)
 
Sabot said:
Da Sabot Effect? :shock: My wife does say that I am a fanatic about keeping the pool clean and the chemicals balanced. I believe in the 15 minute a day caring for my pool will keep my pool clean rule. Testing takes only 5 minutes. Cruzmisl is the true veteran, he has had his unit installed the longest (going on 2 years?) .

We built our house eleven years ago and we don't believe in the magnet theory thus we went with a traditional water softener (which has been broken for about a year). I don’t feel there is anything special about our area for aliens have been avoiding. ;)
Click to expand...

The process of crystallization of supersaturated solutions is not 100% known nor understood, so anything unusual that you may have in your system may count.
Since you don’t have any sign of WS even on the float valve inside the LQ, and since we all have the same float valve and tank, your upper layer in the LQ must be different than the rest of us.
As far as your CYA, TA, CH and pH are concerned, you are more or less like everybody else who has the WS, but you don't have it. Then what can it be? Is your old water softener still on the water line?
If yes - what kind is it? What is your bleach source/name brand?
Man, this is quite a puzzle!
 
Even if our softener was online, it bypasses the outdoor water lines.

I only use 6% Clorox Bleach which I buy at Sams Club. Never used any off brand or a higher % of bleach. As I look back over the posts, seems a plausible connection is the 12% concentration. Everyone which has the "WS", could you please post a picture of it?
 
Sabot said:
Even if our softener was online, it bypasses the outdoor water lines.

I only use 6% Clorox Bleach which I buy at Sams Club. Never used any off brand or a higher % of bleach. As I look back over the posts, seems a plausible connection is the 12% concentration. Everyone which has the "WS", could you please post a picture of it?
Click to expand...

I use Walmart's 6% Ultra bleach. I have white deposits on the hinges of the outlet float, my Tygon outlet tubing looks creamy white, as well as my flow meter.
Other than the "white look", it's been a month of trouble-free operation.
 
Water_man said:
Sabot said:
Even if our softener was online, it bypasses the outdoor water lines.

I only use 6% Clorox Bleach which I buy at Sams Club. Never used any off brand or a higher % of bleach. As I look back over the posts, seems a plausible connection is the 12% concentration. Everyone which has the "WS", could you please post a picture of it?
Click to expand...

I use Walmart's 6% Ultra bleach. I have white deposits on the hinges of the outlet float, my Tygon outlet tubing looks creamy white, as well as my flow meter.
Other than the "white look", it's been a month of trouble-free operation.
Click to expand...


I have always used 12%,,,,no WS.
 

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I was sent a reference to this link by billybrobob and it's a very good simplified explanation of what goes on with calcium carbonate saturation. It also takes about magnesium levels and how higher levels significantly slow down the rate of calcium carbonate formation (more about that here so perhaps that is an additional factor in these pools where similar saturation index values are producing very different results.

There are a variety of Total Hardness tests that Taylor has, but this might be a case where less expensive test strips might be OK. waterbear, what would you recommend if someone wanted to roughly determine Total Hardness to see if this correlates to what is being seen with the rate of this white stuff formation? Also, is there any downside to increasing magnesium levels in the pool? Are there other scale inhibitors that might be better to use? I do think the use of Borates is helpful, but in some cases it doesn't seem to be enough.

Richard
 
Well hopefully my numbers will help sort this out. I use a 7% sodium hypo from the pool store and don't have any borates.

My latest numbers are as follows,
FC: 4.5ppm
CC: 0ppm
TA: 70ppm
CYA : 40ppm
pH: 7.2

The following pictures show my Liquidator with about 3 months worth of use. No cleaning has been done since I installed it. I am in the process of trying to reduce my TA in anticipation of adding borates. I used to always keep my TA ~120 and always had WS. I also used to keep my pH higher (~7.6 to 7.8 ). I'm guessing the higher pH and alkalinity contributed to the WS since opening my pool this year I kept those numbers lower.

valve.jpg


liquid.jpg


liqui1.jpg


funnel.jpg


Not sure what that stuff inside the funnel is.....
 
cruzmisl said:
Well hopefully my numbers will help sort this out. I use a 7% sodium hypo from the pool store and don't have any borates.

My latest numbers are as follows,
FC: 4.5ppm
CC: 0ppm
TA: 70ppm
CYA : 40ppm
pH: 7.2
Click to expand...

Your numbers are in line with chem geek's SI analysis. Just one more number, please: What's your CH?
 

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