NEW Gunite IG pool - West Texas

That looks pretty pitched to me. Even with a slight tilt to the spa seat, dirt and debris will settle on it - I'm thinking of the funnel shape to my deep end diving well and without circulation dirt settles there even though it's sloped. Someone was recently posting about their spa seating being cereal bowl shaped and joked about teaching their cat to skateboard on it - cracked me up. However, they will be jackhammering it out to make more even, I believe.
 
@Patrick, yes, it might be. I think it would depend on the depth of the water and the height of people sitting in it. In our hot tub, the seats were flat horizontal and the backrests straight vertical. If anything, I'd have liked the backrest to be angled back a little. However, in the deep seat of the hot tub (we had two levels, basically one a step to get in and one a seat), it didn't really matter the angle because I would float since the water was about up to my neck, and with the jets on it the water would just sort of pummel me around like a leaf in a current. DH only had water up to his chest and could sit a little better even with jets on.
 
Are these the 2 returns?? Post# 16 (Picture of PVC flex pipe against rebar). Shouldn't they be in a "looped" system???

It's not complete. Weather hasn't been compliant enough for much plumbing work to be completed.

That looks pretty pitched to me. Even with a slight tilt to the spa seat, dirt and debris will settle on it - I'm thinking of the funnel shape to my deep end diving well and without circulation dirt settles there even though it's sloped. Someone was recently posting about their spa seating being cereal bowl shaped and joked about teaching their cat to skateboard on it - cracked me up. However, they will be jackhammering it out to make more even, I believe.
I read that thread and about wet myself at the thought of cats skateboarding in a spa.

I may have to make my PB give the back a slight slope outward...and eliminate the slope on seat section of course. I'm making a list for the next time I see him. I considered having him make at least one spot with lower back jets and upper back jets (I have back problems...and thought to myself "this could be nice"). I'll go ahead and ask him about that.


I do have another SPA question for those who are reading this. In one of the other spas this PB did, it had air vents around the perimeter of the spa (probably 4 of them IIRC). to be able to adjust the intensity of the air in the jets. Is this normal? I don't see it in many pics, and I was reading earlier about an "Air tube" that many run, and try to keep the length sub 15'. I assume these air tubes and the jet adjusters on the top of the spa achieve same results (sans adjustment on air tube) I like the clean look of no adjusters sticking out of the coping. anything I need to know one way or the other?
 
I do have another SPA question for those who are reading this. In one of the other spas this PB did, it had air vents around the perimeter of the spa (probably 4 of them IIRC). to be able to adjust the intensity of the air in the jets. Is this normal? I don't see it in many pics, and I was reading earlier about an "Air tube" that many run, and try to keep the length sub 15'. I assume these air tubes and the jet adjusters on the top of the spa achieve same results (sans adjustment on air tube) I like the clean look of no adjusters sticking out of the coping. anything I need to know one way or the other?

I'm no good with many spa questions, but there are others here that know. Sorry about that.
 
I'm not very educated about spas, either, in fact we had ours filled in at the beginning of the renovation (long story short, it didn't hold water anymore). But I wonder if what you are describing might be Venturi jets? You might be able to google that and find something. Our spa was probably 40 years old and surely didn't have the latest technology, but this is what I know: It had two 1hp pumps (one for circulation to the returns and one for the "jets" which seemed to be through the same returns but turned up in intensity) as well as a blower (to make bubbles come from a perforated pvc pipe in the floor of the spa) and venturi deck jets, which were small pieces of pvc pipe running vertically just outside the bond beam of the spa and terminating in the surface of the deck, probably 1" diameter or less, which burped water whenever we turned the circulation pump on. We never did figure out if that was working correctly, but one old timer who came to look at our pool said that was common to introduce air into the returns. YMMV. Good luck!
 
I considered having him make at least one spot with lower back jets and upper back jets (I have back problems...and thought to myself "this could be nice"). I'll go ahead and ask him about that.

Here is my spa, with the "Captain's seat" with the 4 jets and the seat is about two inches lower than the rest. Love it!

spa_zps7cbc02f5.jpg
 
Here is my spa, with the "Captain's seat" with the 4 jets and the seat is about two inches lower than the rest. Love it!

spa_zps7cbc02f5.jpg

YOINK, I'm stealing your photo to make sure he understands! That's exactly what I want! Thank you! I probably don't need the extra 2'' as I'm what some would call "vertically challenged". but I need to look into that before they get much further.




In other news, since this project is trying to bankrupt us, we found two lounges and a bar set (bar w/ 4 chairs) used on Craigslist. Neither are exceptionally nice, but they will work for the next few yrs.

I figure I'll touchup and spots that have scratches, then wax all metal surfaces in attempt to prevent/slow rust. It's dry here, things rarely rust, but there was this guy named Murphy....
 
Sat 2-8 progress


spoke w/ PB. He said the seat won't be sloped, don't worry. I said "okay"

He's going to check into the set of 4 jets like pictured above. I'm going to send CMP an email, as I found them in their catalog.

I'm ordering Pour-a-lid covers for my skimmers. I need to call them today. He has never used them...

Oh....and it's snowing again...but should be above freezing soon, so I'm hoping they can work today. I asked about gunite timeframe...he said "sometime this month, depends on weather".
 
Good to hear you got the slopes lined out, that's good news. Good to see some progress too. I'm surprised they came out on the weekend.

Looks like nicer weather come Thursday and we are hoping to see some workers show up by then.
 

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Good to hear you got the slopes lined out, that's good news. Good to see some progress too. I'm surprised they came out on the weekend.

Looks like nicer weather come Thursday and we are hoping to see some workers show up by then.


I'm really hoping they come back tomorrow, since it should be above freezing. I think in the 50s again. Lets just hope we can get in line for concrete, and get that going soon.
 
I don't think that I would want the pipe in the gunite as that would create a weak line through the gunite. Also, the rebar seems to be too close to the dirt. The rebar should have a minimum of three inches of coverage on both sides.
 
I don't have much option on the pipe, the rebar does have about 3", one guys job has been to dig out the areas that were less.
 
Is your PB "old school" I wonder? Our mature pool has all the lines in in the shell of the pool, but I'm not sure if it's with rigid or flex PVC (7 returns, 2 skimmers). Reno PB says that's fine, as the pipes are extra-protected by being within the shell, and he thinks it is less likely we will have leaks in the lines from ground shifting. We haven't done our pressure test, so can's say how that reasoning bears out just yet, but should know before we pour the deck. The only real adjustment we've made to the "old school" way our pool was done was moving the skimmers back out of the shell so the bodies set just outside the gunite, with the skimmer mouth just touching the back of the shell. I think this is supposed to make for more effective water skimming by funneling into the skimmer mouth and weir door.
 
I think that if the pipe is going into the wall, the wall thickness should be designed to allow for sufficient coverage on both sides of the pipe. 2" pvc has an O.D of 2.375". Therefore, I would want a minimum of a 9" wall to allow for at least 3 inches on both sides.
 
Yeah, I'd definitely consider him to be old school. He usually builds the pools with the plumbing "spiked" like you see all over this forum. He told me he was doing this one this way due to the location of our sewer/water lines. He prefers the other way due to cost....but said him hitting my water line a cpl times would negate the savings.

Is your PB "old school" I wonder? Our mature pool has all the lines in in the shell of the pool, but I'm not sure if it's with rigid or flex PVC (7 returns, 2 skimmers). Reno PB says that's fine, as the pipes are extra-protected by being within the shell, and he thinks it is less likely we will have leaks in the lines from ground shifting. We haven't done our pressure test, so can's say how that reasoning bears out just yet, but should know before we pour the deck. The only real adjustment we've made to the "old school" way our pool was done was moving the skimmers back out of the shell so the bodies set just outside the gunite, with the skimmer mouth just touching the back of the shell. I think this is supposed to make for more effective water skimming by funneling into the skimmer mouth and weir door.


You make a good point. I will bring that up.
I think that if the pipe is going into the wall, the wall thickness should be designed to allow for sufficient coverage on both sides of the pipe. 2" pvc has an O.D of 2.375". Therefore, I would want a minimum of a 9" wall to allow for at least 3 inches on both sides.

In other news we did get a Bldg inspection tag yesterday.

it says
Type of inspection: Building, footing and electrical ground and Rough-in
and the "will pass" box is checked.

I'll take that as good news. Just watched, the PB came by the house and looked at the tag then left. Lets hope I see workers this afternoon.
 

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