1963 pool resurection
- Thread starter dumbcluck
- Start date
Just stay diligent about testing and adding things slowly to get where you wAnt to be. Brush as often as you can. Everywhere you can. I still have marks in my pool that don't seem to be going away. Got a couple stains after the first heavy rain that don't seem to be going away either. Not sure what to do about it if anything.
I just dumped in 350 lbs of solar salt in today so I can get my swg fired up. Initial test before adding showed about 300ppm according to Aqua check test strip. Recommended amount was around 500 lbs. will test again tomorrow and see where I'm at.
I just dumped in 350 lbs of solar salt in today so I can get my swg fired up. Initial test before adding showed about 300ppm according to Aqua check test strip. Recommended amount was around 500 lbs. will test again tomorrow and see where I'm at.
Stang, do you always keep your fc that high? I just added in one last pound of cal hypo yesterday to help bring my CH up a little. This put me at 7.5 FC yesterday. Is this too high to start up swg? Should I wait for this to drop a little first?
I checked my salt levels this morning and according too aqua check test strips am around 3800ppm or so. Seems good to me.
I feel like I'm ready to go for it, but wondering if FC is a little high right now or not.
Thanks
I checked my salt levels this morning and according too aqua check test strips am around 3800ppm or so. Seems good to me.
I feel like I'm ready to go for it, but wondering if FC is a little high right now or not.
Thanks
Killer95Stang
Well-known member
My ideal level with my CYA is 5-7ppm. In the winter with cold water, it seems like I can never get it lower than 7-8ppm. I'm already at 6-1/2 hours of run time on my pump so I really can't dial that back. I'm also already sitting at 17% percent on the SWG and I didn't want to go lower incase we get another rain of the century storm.
If it were my pool, I would leave your FC at 7.5 like it stands and adjust the SWG to 20% percent and see what happens. If you FC level rises, then either lower your run time or lower the FC output. When summer comes around, you will probably be at 40-50% with your sized pool to keep your FC above 5ppm. If you haven't already, go get a few extra gallons of Acid from the pool store to lower your PH when it starts to rise a little.
Good luck!
If it were my pool, I would leave your FC at 7.5 like it stands and adjust the SWG to 20% percent and see what happens. If you FC level rises, then either lower your run time or lower the FC output. When summer comes around, you will probably be at 40-50% with your sized pool to keep your FC above 5ppm. If you haven't already, go get a few extra gallons of Acid from the pool store to lower your PH when it starts to rise a little.
Good luck!
Do I really want my chlorine above 5?
My cya is pretty low still.
I have an intelliph for the acid demand.
I hooked it all up today and intellichlor said not enough salt in water. I checked my results again and realized what a dumb rookie I am. I was checking my numbers against the instruction sheet and then realized it said sample only on it and to refere to chart on bottle. Duh. I was only at around 2100. Just added 200 more lbs to bring it up another 1200 or so. We'll see tomorrow ?
My cya is pretty low still.
I have an intelliph for the acid demand.
I hooked it all up today and intellichlor said not enough salt in water. I checked my results again and realized what a dumb rookie I am. I was checking my numbers against the instruction sheet and then realized it said sample only on it and to refere to chart on bottle. Duh. I was only at around 2100. Just added 200 more lbs to bring it up another 1200 or so. We'll see tomorrow ?
today salt is good. around 3100ppm. got ic40 and intelliph going. set swg at 20% and acid feed at 50% to see how it goes.
I started today with a ph of about 8 and fc around 5. post new numbers tomorrow. also added a little cya to bring that number up a bit from 50.
I started today with a ph of about 8 and fc around 5. post new numbers tomorrow. also added a little cya to bring that number up a bit from 50.
Numbers are better now. Swg and intelliph stopped working due to cold water condition. Manually adding chlorine and acid.
New problem ( or maybe didn't really notice before?)
Spa drains to level of highest jet when pump not running. I have tried leaving jet return to spa closed. I have tried shutting off bypass before filter ( for 3" line to spa return) I have check valves on both lines. Water seems to go back to pool. I'm not seeing pool level drop.
Pool is only a couple months old. Maybe I have not configured my valves properly for this setup. Pool builder is useless for help as he never understood this setup from the beginning.
Any thoughts or ideas? I haven't taken apart any of my check valves yet to see if they are blocked but I have ran the pump on high to attempt to clear out any potential blockage.
Thanks
New problem ( or maybe didn't really notice before?)
Spa drains to level of highest jet when pump not running. I have tried leaving jet return to spa closed. I have tried shutting off bypass before filter ( for 3" line to spa return) I have check valves on both lines. Water seems to go back to pool. I'm not seeing pool level drop.
Pool is only a couple months old. Maybe I have not configured my valves properly for this setup. Pool builder is useless for help as he never understood this setup from the beginning.
Any thoughts or ideas? I haven't taken apart any of my check valves yet to see if they are blocked but I have ran the pump on high to attempt to clear out any potential blockage.
Thanks
Seems like you need to shut off the spa bottom drain to stop that. But, that is a guess, I don't have a spa attached to the pool.
Spa bottom drain is closed. It only drains to the top jet. ( I think)
I'm pretty sure it only happens when I use the filter/heater bypass which has a check valve behind it.
I will have to experiment a little more.
Should I just be using the spa return partially open for spa overflow? I wouldn't think it would make any difference but at least this way it all goes through the filter.
I'm pretty sure it only happens when I use the filter/heater bypass which has a check valve behind it.
I will have to experiment a little more.
Should I just be using the spa return partially open for spa overflow? I wouldn't think it would make any difference but at least this way it all goes through the filter.
yes, sounds like the spa return plumbing is draining to the pool. Leave it partially open for spa overflow, or close it to hold watrr in the spa.
ok. quick update. all seems to be in order now.
numbers today about 3months after filing pool. swg and acid pump running. swg at 25% pool 2% spa. acid at 100% about 6 hr daily run time with pump at 1600rpm including 45 of those minutes on spillover also at 1600 rpm.
salt 3800
ph 7.6
cl 4.5
ch 275
ta 90
cya 60
things seem pretty good to me although I think per swg target my ta could go down a little and cya could come up a little as well.
anybody see a need for action or just let it be?
thanks
numbers today about 3months after filing pool. swg and acid pump running. swg at 25% pool 2% spa. acid at 100% about 6 hr daily run time with pump at 1600rpm including 45 of those minutes on spillover also at 1600 rpm.
salt 3800
ph 7.6
cl 4.5
ch 275
ta 90
cya 60
things seem pretty good to me although I think per swg target my ta could go down a little and cya could come up a little as well.
anybody see a need for action or just let it be?
thanks
Looks pretty good.
You could bump the CYA slightly.
I havent followed too closely what your Ph stability history is.. but, if its rising fairly constantly and you are using MA to bring it back down a time or 2 a week, then the TA will drop over time. If this is the case, I wouldnt do anything with the TA yet until your PH gets a bit more stability to it
You could bump the CYA slightly.
I havent followed too closely what your Ph stability history is.. but, if its rising fairly constantly and you are using MA to bring it back down a time or 2 a week, then the TA will drop over time. If this is the case, I wouldnt do anything with the TA yet until your PH gets a bit more stability to it
thanks dave. I am running an intelliph automated acid dispenser. I am currently running it at 100% for the filtering so it stays the same. maybe if ta was a little higher I could reduce the percentage and maybe the run time. its probably dispensing somewhere around 10 oz a day or so of 31%ma.
actually, you probably want to lower the TA in order to decrease the PH rise.
Here is the pool school link to lowering it.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity
Here is the pool school link to lowering it.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity
I would bump up the CYA to 80 and not adjust anything else just yet.
The TA might start creeping up once we start having more evaporation and you have to fill the pool back up more often. During the summer months it gets difficult to keep the TA below 90 with how much fill water we have to add. Next winter you should see a significant decrease in the amount of acid you are adding as the plaster will have cured for a year.
The TA might start creeping up once we start having more evaporation and you have to fill the pool back up more often. During the summer months it gets difficult to keep the TA below 90 with how much fill water we have to add. Next winter you should see a significant decrease in the amount of acid you are adding as the plaster will have cured for a year.