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Thread: perhaps under deconstruction

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    perhaps under deconstruction

    Hi
    Am discussing elsewhere algae, CYA, etc. as we might keep the pool but...

    Pool is work and $$ and not used much on Whidbey Island.

    therefore
    1) how does one remove an IG outdoor pool?
    and
    2) what is approximate cost?
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Couple ways. 1 just bring in fill and bury it 2 have it dug out then filled in. Cost is pretty much area and job specific. Any excavation or larger landscape company should be able to provide you with free estimates
    Nathan
    15x30 gunite 18k gallons Hayward star clear plus 120sqft cart

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    If you're gonna fill it you have to break the bottom Or you'll have a dirty. cereal bowl when it rains

    I'd rent a Jack hammer and break the walls down at least 18inches below grade and Then break the bottom through to dirt in several places push all that rubble into the deepest part and then place an ad on Craigslist looking for free clean dirt and Or call local pool builders and tell them they can dump excess dirt there free
    16K Gunite in ground rectangle with 4 person spa in corner. Pentair 2 speed 2hp whisperflo pump, intermatic 3 stage timer, Pentair FNS PLUS 48sqft DE filter, Raypak Gemini rust bucket heater, 2 oldskool scary 500w pool lights; one functional lol

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by bugsy714
    If you're gonna fill it you have to break the bottom Or you'll have a dirty. cereal bowl when it rains

    I'd rent a Jack hammer and break the walls down at least 18inches below grade and Then break the bottom through to dirt in several places push all that rubble into the deepest part and then place an ad on Craigslist looking for free clean dirt and Or call local pool builders and tell them they can dump excess dirt there free
    got similar advice from person out here, must let water out the bottom else a swamp, problem is

    pool sits on high bank over Puget Sound and water in banks can yield bank collapse so maybe, never mind cost, is a bad idea to remove

    funny situation
    1)can't remove as then have added water to steep bank
    2)can't drain to reduce CYA (from trichlor) as puts Cl in Puget Sound

    would appear I am moving closer to BMB

    thank you
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Let me ask, why do you have this extreme concern about chlorine getting into Puget Sound? Puget Sound is a salt water body right? So some non trivial amount of chlorine (or chlorine compounds) are generated in it every time it is struck by a bolt of lightning in much the same way as chlorine is generated using an SWG in a swimming pool. Chlorine will also fairly rapidly be reduced by using it to water your yard as suggested, and as long as your not doing this in the rain very little chlorine would likely get to the surrounding water.

    Ike
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac-1
    Let me ask, why do you have this extreme concern about chlorine getting into Puget Sound? Puget Sound is a salt water body right? So some non trivial amount of chlorine (or chlorine compounds) are generated in it every time it is struck by a bolt of lightning in much the same way as chlorine is generated using an SWG in a swimming pool. Chlorine will also fairly rapidly be reduced by using it to water your yard as suggested, and as long as your not doing this in the rain very little chlorine would likely get to the surrounding water.

    Ike
    good question
    only know that many/most cities round the Sound have laws prohibiting drainage of unreduced pool water into the Sound
    salmon, Orcas, crabs, everything are more and more protected (which is Ok)

    now the watering idea is interesting but I think removing 1" is 500 gallons way too much to use in one sitting and so where/how would I store it? ( I need a water tower like in Keillor's Lake Wobegon)
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Why not back flush to your sewer?
    16K Gunite in ground rectangle with 4 person spa in corner. Pentair 2 speed 2hp whisperflo pump, intermatic 3 stage timer, Pentair FNS PLUS 48sqft DE filter, Raypak Gemini rust bucket heater, 2 oldskool scary 500w pool lights; one functional lol

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by bugsy714
    Why not back flush to your sewer?
    another good question but
    have no sewer, out in the country with septic system
    septic system could not handle pool backwash / drainage, water would emerge from the toilets I am told
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    techguy's Avatar
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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    When I spoke of draining to the yard, if you used a garden hose, it would only be a small flow and you can move the hose end to different areas of the yard. The sun will clear out the chlorine very quickly and I understand many soil borne bacteria consume the CYA. I have done this in the past it takes about 2 days to drain a 10K pool. Once you start the siphon, as long as you keep it flowing, its fine.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Oh Yeah don't do that and it wouldn't be water lmao

    I'd buy a roll up backwash hose from HD and start pumping water out into a field Or open area Or just into the sound at night it isn't gonna hurt a thing That's less pollution than a single urination into a pool the solution to pollution is dilution
    16K Gunite in ground rectangle with 4 person spa in corner. Pentair 2 speed 2hp whisperflo pump, intermatic 3 stage timer, Pentair FNS PLUS 48sqft DE filter, Raypak Gemini rust bucket heater, 2 oldskool scary 500w pool lights; one functional lol

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by techguy
    When I spoke of draining to the yard, if you used a garden hose, it would only be a small flow and you can move the hose end to different areas of the yard. The sun will clear out the chlorine very quickly and I understand many soil borne bacteria consume the CYA. I have done this in the past it takes about 2 days to drain a 10K pool. Once you start the siphon, as long as you keep it flowing, its fine.

    ah ha, a siphon, not the massive flow / pressure of backwash
    not being expert at siphoning
    1) how to start?
    2) can you siphon up hill as water level is lower than surround?

    sorry if these are dumb

    or maybe a low pressure pump? then could exchange pool water and at the same time reduce consumption of well water for watering

    or just had another idea - there is in the plumbing a spigot for removing water, I never use it cuz it takes so long but it would be fine for slow water removal and watering
    hose from spigot to plants
    turn on pump
    water plants for ?one hour and voila, 1" of water removed from pool
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    I don't agree that this should be pumped into the Sound or an open field. These can be critical and fragile environments. This is not a heavily populated area and the ecosystems here may not handle the influence like this. In other areas of the country, the ecosystems near land have already adapted to the overflow of man. I am not a huge tree-hugger but I do understand that my actions have influences on those around me.

    I am talking about doing this into a landscaped area where you could drown a begonia or some lawn and let the chemicals degrade on your property before before they flow off you land and become someone (everyone) else's problems.

    I just read the other message. A siphon can be started by putting the one of the hose in the pool and filling the hose from the spigot into the pool. You then turn off the spigot and then remove the hose from the bib, the siphon will draw the water to that end of the hose and start drawing water out of the pool.

    Another way is to place the entire hose in the pool, remove all air in the hose and then plg the end and pull it ove the side of the pool and then remove the plug, the Water will flow out of the pool, via the hose.

    These methods will draw all but a few inches of water out of the pool.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by techguy
    I don't agree that this should be pumped into the Sound or an open field. These can be critical and fragile environments. This is not a heavily populated area and the ecosystems here may not handle the influence like this. In other areas of the country, the ecosystems near land have already adapted to the overflow of man. I am not a huge tree-hugger but I do understand that my actions have influences on those around me.

    I am talking about doing this into a landscaped area where you could drown a begonia or some lawn and let the chemicals degrade on your property before before they flow off you land and become someone (everyone) else's problems.

    I just read the other message. A siphon can be started by putting the one of the hose in the pool and filling the hose from the spigot into the pool. You then turn off the spigot and then remove the hose from the bib, the siphon will draw the water to that end of the hose and start drawing water out of the pool.

    Another way is to place the entire hose in the pool, remove all air in the hose and then plg the end and pull it ove the side of the pool and then remove the plug, the Water will flow out of the pool, via the hose.

    These methods will draw all but a few inches of water out of the pool.
    oh my, sounds cool & fun
    in earlier times I stole some gas by siphoning, started with mouth suction, tasted awful but did not die

    but if I just put the hose on the spigot in the return line and turn it on, water flows from the return line via the hose to the plants

    no need for the siphon,

    and pool drained of water, no well water consumed, plants watered, no water into the steep banks or the Sound; sounds too good be true, must be something wrong with the plan
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Is the return line at the base of the pool?

    If you simply place the end of the hose on the floor of the pool, it will draw the water up and out of the pool as long as the other end of the hose is below the starting point. if the spigot is downhill of the pool, it will siphon easily.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    How about a cheap (sub $100) Intex pool maybe 10x30 or 12x30, those should hold 1,000 - 1,500 gallons of water, pump it out, let it sit for a few days until the FC drops and slowly drain it out from there. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/10-Intex-Easy-Set ... 67&sr=8-15
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
    I use and endorse TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
    ~Remember TFP counts on your donations to keep this site ad free~

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Why not treat the pool water as if it was a "pond", dechlorinate it instantly.

    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... agpspn=pla

    And then pump it into the sound.
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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac-1
    How about a cheap (sub $100) Intex pool maybe 10x30 or 12x30, those should hold 1,000 - 1,500 gallons of water, pump it out, let it sit for a few days until the FC drops and slowly drain it out from there. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/10-Intex-Easy-Set ... 67&sr=8-15
    I like it, will explore, thank you
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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    Re: perhaps under deconstruction

    Quote Originally Posted by harleysilo
    Why not treat the pool water as if it was a "pond", dechlorinate it instantly.

    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... agpspn=pla

    And then pump it into the sound.
    I like it, will explore, thank you
    IG under fir trees and one cherry surrounded by grass built in 1979, 30k, plaster, old Sta-Rite HRPB30, 4.9 sq.ft, 20 GPM/sq.ft., but with new glass, new (in 2012) 1 HP WhisperFlo one speed, new (in 2013) Rainbow tab chlorinator attached at the top, old Maxi-Flo Heat Exchanger MF-260, Burnham V7 oil heater 245 MBH, new (in 2012) Compool to Easytouch, Taylor K-2005 and TF-100.

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