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Thread: Another liquidator question/observation...

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    Another liquidator question/observation...

    I have installed my liquidator this past weekend. I did quite a bit of research here and searched the many threads loaded with advice.

    I figured I would not add chlorine until I was comfortable with the set up and made sure all the bugs were out.

    I had intended on a pump drain, heater drain set up...but ended up drilling and using saddle valves (another story).

    Set up went major issues.

    I noticed, however, that I have very small bubbles forming in the tubing starting just past the adjustment valve. The liquidator setup from its output is: adjustment valve, flow meter, check valve, then pool pump suction. The bubbles form on the tubing and then eventually get swept away. Not enough to lose prime or anything like that...just constant "carbonation like" bubbles.

    At first I thought I had a leak. But I really checked everything twice, used silicone, etc etc.

    Here's the interesting observation. I opened the LQ flow valve to full flow. I took a pinch valve I had and started placing it on the tubing in various spots between the LQ and the suction saddle penetration. The bubbles formed downstream of wherever I put that pinch valve. Upstream tubing stayed clear.

    So...I don't think I have a leak. I think the flow valve (or pinch valve) is creating a pressure drop and gasses are coming out of the solution.

    So my question is: Is there any foundation for the LQ set up order (adj valve, flow mtr, check vlave)? Or can I change the order to flow meter, check valve, adjustment valve, pool pump suction? And have the adjustment valve close to the suction penetration? When I did that with the pinch valve, I got no bubbles or leaks and the supply tubing stayed clear.

    17K Plaster Kidney (17' x 37') w/ Spa
    Jandy DE filter, Jandy JHP 2.0 pump, Polaris 280 cleaner, Stenner set up with bleach
    Jandy LJ Heater and Aqualink RS controls

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    bibeaud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    P'Burg NJ

    Re: Another liquidator question/observation...

    I am using upgraded components. From the tank I have the flow meter, then the needle valve, then the check valve, followed by the filter pump drain plug.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    11,000 Gal Trilogy "Utopia" Fiberglass Pool, 1HP Jandy Pump, Jandy CS200 Cartridge Filter, Raypak 199k BTU Heater, Liquidator, CMP Off-Line Chlorinator. Cleaners: Polaris 360, Blue Diamond, Poolvernuegen Pressure

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    SouthWest Alabama

    Re: Another liquidator question/observation...

    Either way should work, but I like either the check valve or the control valve to be closest to the pump, with the preference for the control valve.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Re: Another liquidator question/observation...

    Thanks for the replies...

    I think I will go with flow meter, adjustment valve, check valve, suction. I am above pool water line but like the idea of the check valve just in case.

    I think I will also shorten the line between items as well...
    17K Plaster Kidney (17' x 37') w/ Spa
    Jandy DE filter, Jandy JHP 2.0 pump, Polaris 280 cleaner, Stenner set up with bleach
    Jandy LJ Heater and Aqualink RS controls

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Another liquidator question/observation...

    I found, very oddly, that I had the same sort of thing (soda bubbles) in the system with no leak which dissappeared after about a week. So I chalked it up to some components out gassing after exposure to water and chlorine.

    22,000 gallon vinyl in ground (17ft x 33ft) built in 1996, Pentair Whisperflo 1HP [2007] running into a Pentair Sand Dollar SD80 (75 GPM flow) [2007] and Rheem 266A Digital Gas Heater [2013], Liquidator [2013], full sun. And a UDS.

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