6 Year Old Pool Needing Liner Replacement

Sep 2, 2011
63
Nanty Glo, PA
Upon opening my pool for this 2017 season (24' x 52" AGP) a couple weeks ago my liner ripped in two places where the wall meets the floor. Of course I had already refilled with water and added 2 gallons (or was it 3?) of liquid chlorine before losing it all down the hill into the road ditch! It lasted all winter just fine. At the time I noticed the leak I was brushing my sidewalls after shocking. At first I broke my usual brush (HTH brush from Walmart) and so I started using the one that came with my pool (much smaller). I've brushed my walls many many times before so I can only assume the liner had gotten weak and brushing it just put enough force on it to finally give way and rip. I'm a little irritated that I only got 6 years (5 swimming seasons) out of this liner! I keep the solar cover on majority of the summer and it's covered in the winter. Of course the pool techs I talked to suggested I had let Chlorine levels get too high, but I started on the BBB method at the end of the first swimming season (after running into my first algae outbreak and wondering why following the pool store's instructions weren't working). Off the top of my head I think I typically run CYA around 35 to 40, keep CL up at 6 (and try never to get below 3), keep ALK around 100, & pH between 7.2 to 7.8 (I boost it up to 7.8 and it slowly decreases over time down to 7.2, maybe 7.0 before I boost it back up again - last year I was facing the jet further up to aerate and slow down the rate the pH would drop at). In addition to using the PoolMath calculator, I reference Ben's Best Guess chart found here. At opening this year I shocked with CL at 20 (assuming CL was 0 to start, which it has been every other opening season, and assuming CYA down to the 10 to 20 range). Actually, right now thinking back on this, I remember targeting CL of "20", but I thought I used 3 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine. Even if I did use 3 gallons, resulting in CL of 30, would that have mixed in with +/-10,000 gallons of water fast enough to cause a liner issue in less than an hour? (I dumped the CL in at various locations and didn't just dump it all in one spot.)

Anyway, I've had a heck of a time finding a tech that wasn't too busy to take a look and offer to do the liner replacement. He finally came out today (2 weeks later) and has suggested switching to a uni-bead liner with bead receiver. His price is "not to exceed $1,200" for all parts, liner, and labor. Uni-bead seems the way to go and forum searches don't show any serious negatives going this way. Oh, and the tech started talking bad about the bottom drains saying they are simply a way for the pool store to make an easy $200 during install, but make liner replacements more difficult. I basically cut him off telling him I'd never want a pool without them.

Any suggestions on if there's anything I can do to improve liner life expectancy? Is a CL of 20 anywhere near high enough to cause liner degradation? If not, how high would CL have to be to do so? I do wonder if the sand washed out from the spot under the rip and the liner ripped because of no support under it, but it seems odd that only a small spot washed out. (I do have a rock on top of plastic sheeting "landscaped" drainage swale around my pool to divert any surface water from heading under the pool).

-Garry
 
Your pH tends to DECREASE over time? I'm not sure I've ever heard of that situation in a pool that is chlorinated with bleach or an SWG. That typically only happens in pools where trichlor tablets are used. Especially with a TA of 100, I would find it hard to believe that your pH tends to decrease.

Acidic pH is most detrimental chemistry condition for vinyl liners. Exposure to pool-wide or localized low pH will damage them the most, such as if muriatic acid is added and not properly mixed or powdered shocks/tablets are allowed to settle on the bottom or a trichlor floater is stuck/anchored in one location for a long time or in a skimmer.
 
Your pH tends to DECREASE over time? I'm not sure I've ever heard of that situation in a pool that is chlorinated with bleach or an SWG. That typically only happens in pools where trichlor tablets are used. Especially with a TA of 100, I would find it hard to believe that your pH tends to decrease.

Acidic pH is most detrimental chemistry condition for vinyl liners. Exposure to pool-wide or localized low pH will damage them the most, such as if muriatic acid is added and not properly mixed or powdered shocks/tablets are allowed to settle on the bottom or a trichlor floater is stuck/anchored in one location for a long time or in a skimmer.

I was using Trichlor tablets when the pool store first opened up my pool, but that was only for the first 2 to 3 months of use. It was then a short stint with Dichlor tablets (correct term? - the ones without CYA in them) and then on to either bleach, "chlorinating liquid", or "liquid shock" (all forms of Sodium Hypochlorite at differing levels of Chlorine % concentration). Yes, my pH drops, NEVER rises on it's own. Perhaps I shouldn't let it fluctuate so much and try maintaining it higher (i.e. raise it once it drops to 7.4). I've never added Muriatic acid to my pool water (never a need), I only use Borax to raise it. There may have been a few times where a powdered "shock" (not with Trichlor though) wasn't fully dissolved in my bucket before dumping in, but it wouldn't have been a huge clump.

So are high levels of CL (within reason, say up to 25, maybe 30) not detrimental to vinyl liners? I think I target "15" for shocking (only as-needed, not routinely) with +/-"20" used when it is suspected to REALLY be in need of shocking or at closing. "30" would be by mistake or at least unintended.

-Garry
 
I have a 6 year-old liner that is still soft but suffered a tear at the cove just 3 days ago. I also think that it was caused when I brushed the walls and floor. Last Spring I installed a pool light and was able to sample the small circle of liner that I cut out before using a hole saw for the metal wall. The liner was still soft and looked good.

I believe my problem is due to the fact that my yard easily floods and tends to sink in spots. The place where my liner tore was below my skimmer where I have concrete on the outside of the pool wall to keep splash out from eroding the soil. That concrete has sunk 3/4" in 3 years. My liner simply couldn't tolerate that much stretching. I plan to replace my liner next Spring and take extra steps to lessen the chance of a repeat failure. I also practice proper water chemistry and don't place any blame on low pH or high chlorine levels.
 
Well a local pool tech/installer was finally able to fit me into his schedule and get my new liner installed. I was not able to be home. He tells me they found little to no sand under the liner on the side of the pool where the tears occurred and that there were rocks poking up against the liner. Sounds like my original install was shoddy which doesn't surprise me. At least they found a reason for the short life of the liner; no hopefully this new one lasts a lot longer!

-Garry
 
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