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Thread: Adding muriatic acid

  1. #1
    Member schertzy82's Avatar
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    Adding muriatic acid

    Probably a silly question, but is it ok to add muriatic acid in front of the return while the SWG is running? Would the acid have any effect on the chlorination or vice versa?
    Intex 18ft x 52in Ultra Frame Pool, hard plumbed w/skimmer and fountain
    Intex 4000 gph cartridge filter pump w/Unicell filter
    Intex SWG, copper bars unplugged

  2. #2
    Senior Member wetchem's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Personally, I would take a 5 gal bucket, fill with twice the amount of pool water (or at least a 1/4th full).
    Using an old plastic handle, slowly add the acid to water while mixing. This dilution may get warm... so do this very slowly!
    Then slowly poor this dilution into the pool in front of the return.

    Safety:
    - it is important: ALLWAYS, ALLWAYS, add acid TO the water (think alphabet... A to W). It is a safety thing. Should you get splashed while adding the acid to the water, you are more likely to get water or more dilute acid on you rather than the concentrated acid.

    -DO NOT GET THE CONCENTRATE ON YOUR SKIN! It WILL burn you. Keep some clean water close by so that if you do get some on you, you can rinse it off fairly quickly.... having the hose next to you is a good idea. Also, although not usually stated, having some baking soda next to you to put on the contact point after rinsing is a good idea... just for small burns.

    -wc
    Intex Ultraframe 14'x3.5-Round (4000ish-gal) AG - Vinyl - Intex 5667EG Sand Filter 1600gph :)
    ( retired: 637R Crtrge 1000gph someday it may have another life as a water fountain... or feet washer! Solar Water Heater? )

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  3. #3
    Mod Squad BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Good Morning schertzy82:

    I also use a 5-gallon bucket to dilute the MA with water before adding to the pool. I then walk it around the pool while emptying the bucket, focusing on pouring much of it into the stream of water coming out from the return lines. This avoids the risk of a concentrated slug of acid in any one spot. Pump should be on when adding this (or any) chemical.

    Quote Originally Posted by wetchem
    it is important: ALLWAYS, ALLWAYS, add acid TO the water (think alphabet... A to W). It is a safety thing. Should you get splashed while adding the acid to the water, you are more likely to get water or more dilute acid on you rather than the concentrated acid.
    Repeating wetchem's quote for emphasis. Very important advice!
    TFP Moderator 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
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  4. #4
    Administrator JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Diluting the acid beforehand increases the (small) risk. It is best to pour the acid directly into the pool in front of a return jet while the pump is running. You do not want to pour acid around the edge of the pool as that will reduce the rate at which it mixes. Pouring in front of a running return jet makes sure that the jet will mix everything as quickly as possible.

    In any case adding acid to the pool will not affect the SWG. Just be sure not to add acid to the skimmer, which could cause problems.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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  5. #5
    Senior Member wetchem's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    I should have mentioned the fumes...
    If you pre-dilute (do this outside) or if you add it as JasonLion mentions... keep out of the fumes.

    I have a pair of the heavier chemical gloves... purchased them at the local mom&pop hardware store for like $10. Not the really heavy thick stuff; however, they come 3/4 way up to my elbows and have enough flexability to open bottles etc without tearing. The store doesn't have a website however something like this at Menards, Ace, or your local M&P:
    http://www.menards.com/main/housewar...558-c-7083.htm would be a good investment in your hands. You could use the disposables; however, I've never found an over the counter brand that goes much over your wrist (well, at least that would also go over my big hands too).

    The main reason I would (and will) use the pre-dilution is I have a smaller vinyl liner AGP with a single small return.

    I also second JasonLion's statement to keep the concentrated stuff out of your strainers/pump-plumbing. It will get hot when added to water, it will eat exposed metal, it can attack certain plastics, and it will make a bad day worse.

    -wc
    Intex Ultraframe 14'x3.5-Round (4000ish-gal) AG - Vinyl - Intex 5667EG Sand Filter 1600gph :)
    ( retired: 637R Crtrge 1000gph someday it may have another life as a water fountain... or feet washer! Solar Water Heater? )

    :mrgreen: Click here to Goto Pool School. :scratch: How Much Of What? Click Here - Poolcalculator.com :lookhere: TestKits

  6. #6
    Mod Squad BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Will modify my approach to pour all of the MA directly into the pool in front of a return jet (while the pump is running, of course).

    One detail I forgot to add to my post is that I give the MA/water mix one or two stirs around the bucket immediately before adding to the pool and I do the mixing outside.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoDarville
    I also use a 5-gallon bucket to dilute the MA with water before adding to the pool...This avoids the risk of a concentrated slug of acid in any one spot.
    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    Diluting the acid beforehand increases the (small) risk
    Jason, am I correctly interpreting your comments as meaning that diluting the MA in water immediately before adding to the pool increases the risk of a concentrated slug? If so, Iím curious to learn a bit more as to why thatís the case. Just seems counter-intuitive that a diluted mixture poured immediately after mixing can increase the risk of a concentrated slug. Nevertheless, Iím always open to tweaking my methods based on continuous learning.

    Any replies are much obliged
    TFP Moderator 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
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  7. #7
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    I think the risk he referred to was bodily harm ... you are handling it more.

    If you lower the bottle into the pool and pour slowly with the opening just over the water surface in front of a return, there us virtually no chance of splashing.

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    Jason, TFP Moderator
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  8. #8
    Administrator JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    I think the risk he referred to was bodily harm ... you are handling it more.
    Correct.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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  9. #9
    Senior Member bobodaclown's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Always stand upwind when pouring muriatic acid. Here in Florida when the humidity is high you can see the acid in the bottle interacting with the humidity in the air. I've gotten hit with a whiff and it isn't pretty, it definitely irritates the mucus membranes.
    So stand up wind of the bottle.
    Squat down in front of the return get the bottle low, so you don't splash the acid. I use a Solo cup to measure out the MA, then pour it into the pool. I do it right near the ledge and try to say up wind.
    17K Kidney Shaped Pool Concrete (Diamond Bright) Pool, 3/4 hp 2 speed 115V Sta-rite Duraglas PEA5D-180L/P2R5D-181L (Impeller C105-92PS Diffuser C1-216P), 1.5 piping, Pentair CC100 Filter , Heat Siphon 100K BTU Heat Pump Pool Heater, Flow meter Blue White Flowmeter Model No. F-30150P, Hayward Astrolight SP0581N, SWCG CPX36, SmartPool Nitro SmartKleen NC22 robotic pool cleaner, Lakeland Florida

  10. #10
    Mod Squad BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Thanks for clarifying, y'all. Hope all you Dads out there are enjoying this Father's Day
    TFP Moderator 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

  11. #11

    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    Many dollar stores (in my case Big Lots) sell large (2.5 cup capacity) plastic measuring cups, with large, comfortable handles.

    With the acid container and measuring cup near pool edge and above a return jet, I spill 2 measuring cups of pool water on the coping. With the measuring cup sitting in the created puddle, the required amount of acid is poured into the cup and then lowered just above the water surface and into the return jet stream. When done, I rinse the cup in the pool water and store it upside down, on top of the acid gallon container.

    I use the same procedure to add bleach, without creating the puddle to protect the coping.

    Regards,
    -Gary
    12,000 gallon, tile finish, in-ground pool with spill over spa.
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  12. #12
    Senior Member techguy's Avatar
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    Re: Adding muriatic acid

    I went to a restaurant supply store and purchased some nice Lexan measuring pitchers. I got two of them. The large one that is 64 ounces. The outside is marked in cups and ounces (as well as metric). The smaller one is two cups in size. It is marked in cups and ounces as well as metric. The marks on both are raised on the outside so they can not "wash off".
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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