# Thread: Test numbers for green pool?

1. ## Test numbers for green pool?

So My test kit didn't arrive. I got a HTH drop test from the store. I tested the water, i'm getting the following.

CYN < 30 (not measurable, when I put it in the tube I still could see the black dot in the bottom of the vial when filled beyond the marking. I bet if the tube was longer i still could see it)
TC 0
Ph 7.2
TA 90 ppm
CH 220 ppm

My guess is I need to first put in some CYN to get it up enough. I should be able to use the pool calculator for the rest.....

2. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

If your pool is green, then you need to shock. But since there is no CYA, you need to create an environment where you won't lose all of your FC to the sun when you statr to shock the pool. Therefore, I would add enough CYA to give you 30 ppm to start. Then I would add enough bleach to bring your FC to 12 ppm. Use the Pool Calculator to calculate the amounts of chemicals that you need based on the number of gallons in your pool.

Shocking is difficult when you don't have the test kit that you need. It can still be done though.

3. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Originally Posted by 257WbyMag
If your pool is green, then you need to shock. But since there is no CYA, you need to create an environment where you won't lose all of your FC to the sun when you statr to shock the pool. Therefore, I would add enough CYA to give you 30 ppm to start. Then I would add enough bleach to bring your FC to 12 ppm. Use the Pool Calculator to calculate the amounts of chemicals that you need based on the number of gallons in your pool.

Shocking is difficult when you don't have the test kit that you need. It can still be done though.
I did read this, It indicated to raise CYA i will need to add some sort of stabilizer, but I will have to run my pump for a week to get it to stay. Are the liquid stabilizers faster?

4. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Liquid CYA is available. It costs much more than the powdered versions but it dissolves immediately.

5. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

I think you misunderstand ... it can take up to a week for the CYA to show up in the test ... it is still in your pool and you do not have to run your pump the entire time.

Although if you are doing the shocking process, you generally want to be running the filter to clear out the algae anyway.

6. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Originally Posted by jblauert
I think you misunderstand ... it can take up to a week for the CYA to show up in the test ... it is still in your pool and you do not have to run your pump the entire time.

Although if you are doing the shocking process, you generally want to be running the filter to clear out the algae anyway.
So regardless if I use solid cya or liquid it will still take up to a week? Also since the pool is filled with alge how will I backflush since the article indicates not to back flush the pool?

7. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

If you start the process in late afternoon/early evening, like right now, the chlorine you add will be more effective without CYA in the water. Then add the CYA in the morning to protect your FC through the following day. JMO

8. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

They both start "working" almost right away. The liquid only shows up in tests quicker than other forms. If you use a solid form just keep track of how many pounds you add and plug that number into the pool calculator. Go with this number for a week, and then retest. It doesn't have to be perfect as you're able to fight the green with a wide range of amounts. In fact during the baquqcil swap I did last year I didn't add any CYA till i was finished. The CC was burning through the chlorine way faster than the sun could. I also only had a CULYA level of 20 the entire last 3 months of the season and had no problems.

To kill the algae you need to add chlorine more than anything. How large is your pool and what is your current test results?

9. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Originally Posted by Leebo
They both start "working" almost right away. The liquid only shows up in tests quicker than other forms. If you use a solid form just keep track of how many pounds you add and plug that number into the pool calculator. Go with this number for a week, and then retest. It doesn't have to be perfect as you're able to fight the green with a wide range of amounts. In fact during the baquqcil swap I did last year I didn't add any CYA till i was finished. The CC was burning through the chlorine way faster than the sun could. I also only had a CULYA level of 20 the entire last 3 months of the season and had no problems.

To kill the algae you need to add chlorine more than anything. How large is your pool and what is your current test results?
I'm kind of confused by what I'm reading. Do I always have to wait a week after adding stabilizer? (regardless if it's liquid or solid granular)? If I put a stabilizer in there along with bleach, can they be put in together. Amusing the stabilizer will began to increase in concentration (so I can get a head start on killing the alge)?

10. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Liquid shows up in test quicker than granular does. They both are in your pool right away however. You can add bleach an hour or so after adding the CYA and all will work just fine. The stabilizer is really just there to keep the chlorine from evaporating....but with mild temps right now plus your green pool it's really not a large concern. To get a clear pool your FC and CC numbers are your main concern for now.

11. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Originally Posted by Leebo
Liquid shows up in test quicker than granular does. They both are in your pool right away however. You can add bleach an hour or so after adding the CYA and all will work just fine. The stabilizer is really just there to keep the chlorine from evaporating....but with mild temps right now plus your green pool it's really not a large concern. To get a clear pool your FC and CC numbers are your main concern for now.
So, are we saying that when you put CYA in your pool (regardless of the it's form). They both start working immediatley (protecting the chlorine). HOWEVER, based on the type of testing, it takes about a week before it actually registers????

12. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

So, are we saying that when you put CYA in your pool (regardless of the it's form). They both start working immediatley (protecting the chlorine). HOWEVER, based on the type of testing, it takes about a week before it actually registers????
Not quite, but that's close enough. The important thing to get the thread back on track is to put in about 20ppm or so CYA so your chlorine will have some protection. Simply CALCULATE the dose using the pool calculator.... whether you use liquid or not and don't worry about testing it.

Now that that's done, you need to start the Shock Process according to the articles in Pool School. The algae will not go away until you get chlorine in the pool. Keep your focus on maintaing the proper chlorine level throught the process and, if you are diligent, you will soon have a sparkling pool.

13. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

OK here are my numbers again.

I've been adding bleach on a continual basis. I've also been scrubbing the sides and backwashing.

My CYN around 20 (I can see the dot dissapear now) I've added a total of 4 cups cyn.
TC = 20 ppm
PH 6.8
TA 110

My pool is still green. I notice my ph is low. and my ta is high. Should I add baking soda?

14. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

You need to be careful when testing PH if the FC level is high. Very high FC levels can cause false high PH readings. Since your PH is low, that doesn't appear to be an issue here, but it is something to keep in mind.

Most of the PH tests won't read lower than 6.8, so your actual PH could be much lower.

You don't want to use baking soda. That would raise your TA even more, while having only a small effect on your PH. The best thing to use to raise the PH is borax. Soda ash, or pool store PH Up, is also alright.

15. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Originally Posted by JasonLion
You need to be careful when testing PH if the FC level is high. Very high FC levels can cause false high PH readings. Since your PH is low, that doesn't appear to be an issue here, but it is something to keep in mind.

Most of the PH tests won't read lower than 6.8, so your actual PH could be much lower.

You don't want to use baking soda. That would raise your TA even more, while having only a small effect on your PH. The best thing to use to raise the PH is borax. Soda ash, or pool store PH Up, is also alright.
In regards to the green pool. I don't have a vacuum hose yet, but I ordered one. I ran a scrub brush along the sides every day. In the center of my pool there is some small debris, but I'ts getting smaller as I try to get as much as I can with my net. It seems the color is still green? I've been running the pump 24/7

16. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Well for the first time (starting yesturday), I can actually see the bottom of the pool floor. It's not completeley clear, but it's looking better. The center of the pool still has some very small debris that I need to vaccume, however, it's looking better. I imagine it will clear up eventually. I now notice the pool walls have a black/green slimy film on them (but twords the bottom half of the wall). I've used a brush to scrub the wall every day, however, either the brush is not curved (square brush), or the algae is very tough to remove.... When the pool finally clears up, how often should I be running my pump. I right now have it running 24/7.

17. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Keep running it 24/7 during the shock process as you know, then adjust to keep the pool clean. You might start at 6 hours per day and work down from there, if it starts to get cloudy then bring it back up until you find your sweet spot. I have a lot of trees, a hot Texas sun, and an inefficient pool, so in the summer I have to run 6 hours per day.

Just to reinforce it, keep the shock process until your water is clear, your CC is .5 or less, and your overnight chlorine loss test comes back 1.0 or less FC loss.

18. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Recent Numbers

CYN = around 20
TC = 20
PH 6.8
TA 100 ppm
TH ? (When I put in the indicator the water stayed clear, when I added the titrate, nothing happened????)

19. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Testing pH with FC above 10 can skew the test and make it read a false high. Since your FC is 20 and your pH shows 6.8, I suggest you let the FC drop below 10 and RETEST the pH. If the pH is lower than 7.2, I suggest you raise it to 7.2 - 7.4ish, using borax. After confirming a pH in the low 7's, you can resume shocking.

No need to retest CYA or TA or CH during this process.

20. ## Re: Test numbers for green pool?

Okay, steppinthrax, time for you to get the "lingo"

It's CYA (Cyanuric Acid)

sounds like you're making progress.

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