First TF100 test Results - Need help please

Yes, you can squeeze the sock with the stabilizer, it will dissolve quicker. Assume that whatever your target for the CYA level was is now your new level, and raise your shock level accordinly.

You have no FC. Go ahead and use enough bleach to reach your new shock level, and test it up to hourly and add more bleach if necessary, up to hourly, to maintain shock level.

Yes, it dissappeared that fast. was probably gone within hours. You need to test often when shocking, and add bleach often, to maintain shock level, until the FC holds overnight.
 
Thanks for the replies.

One question, I thought the shock FC should be 20? but when I use the PoolCalculator and Ilook at the suggested FC level, it says 13.

I tried checking the chart values but for SWG pools it starts off the chart from a CYA level of 60 and not the 30 that I was recommended to put in as a starting point, so I'm just using the Pool Calculator and that shows a Shock FC target of 13.

Pool is 80,000 Litres

FC=0
PH =7.2
TA=60
CH=90


Update 2.5 hours after placing the recommended chlorine bleach to reach a FC of 13 (but that nnumber was not confirmed through a test).

FC=6
CC=1
TC=7

1. Now I should test the same things every hour? up until what point do I stop?
2. How do I know if I have to raise the Chlorine?
3. The Green is gone but the deep end is so thick I can't see through it at all.
4. The SWG is off, at what point would I know the chlorine is stable so that I can turn it on?

It's still quite cold outside, aprod 46 and pool is cold, around 50.

Next Update, aprox 1.5 hour later and nothing added to the water

FC=6
CC=1.5
TC=7.5
Salt=1500 according to my Aqua Logic P4, so it doesn't have enough salt to even run, it turns itself off.

Is it normal it went up?

Also, every time I add Chlorine, I then brush the pool, but that ends up making it greyish after I brush it all, should I stop brushing it?
 
Rockstead said:
Thanks for the replies.

One question, I thought the shock FC should be 20? but when I use the PoolCalculator and Ilook at the suggested FC level, it says 13.

I tried checking the chart values but for SWG pools it starts off the chart from a CYA level of 60 and not the 30 that I was recommended to put in as a starting point, so I'm just using the Pool Calculator and that shows a Shock FC target of 13.

Pool is 80,000 Litres

FC=0
PH =7.2
TA=60
CH=90


Update 2.5 hours after placing the recommended chlorine bleach to reach a FC of 13 (but that nnumber was not confirmed through a test).

FC=6
CC=1
TC=7

1. Now I should test the same things every hour? up until what point do I stop?
2. How do I know if I have to raise the Chlorine?
3. The Green is gone but the deep end is so thick I can't see through it at all.
4. The SWG is off, at what point would I know the chlorine is stable so that I can turn it on?

It's still quite cold outside, aprod 46 and pool is cold, around 50.

Next Update, aprox 1.5 hour later and nothing added to the water

FC=6
CC=1.5
TC=7.5
Salt=1500 according to my Aqua Logic P4, so it doesn't have enough salt to even run, it turns itself off.

Is it normal it went up?

Thank you!

Added 3 x 2.85 Litre jugs of Bleach in the early evening.

Checked pool around 11:30pm

FC=9
CC=2.5
TC=11.5

Check the next morning at around 7:00am, and it did rain a little but not sure how much.

FC=7
CC=2
TC=9

Water is blue but I can't see through it.

Don't know what to do now, appreciate any help please.
 
Rockstead said:
Rockstead said:
Thanks for the replies.

One question, I thought the shock FC should be 20? but when I use the PoolCalculator and Ilook at the suggested FC level, it says 13.

I tried checking the chart values but for SWG pools it starts off the chart from a CYA level of 60 and not the 30 that I was recommended to put in as a starting point, so I'm just using the Pool Calculator and that shows a Shock FC target of 13.

Pool is 80,000 Litres

FC=0
PH =7.2
TA=60
CH=90


Update 2.5 hours after placing the recommended chlorine bleach to reach a FC of 13 (but that nnumber was not confirmed through a test).

FC=6
CC=1
TC=7

1. Now I should test the same things every hour? up until what point do I stop?
2. How do I know if I have to raise the Chlorine?
3. The Green is gone but the deep end is so thick I can't see through it at all.
4. The SWG is off, at what point would I know the chlorine is stable so that I can turn it on?

It's still quite cold outside, aprod 46 and pool is cold, around 50.

Next Update, aprox 1.5 hour later and nothing added to the water

FC=6
CC=1.5
TC=7.5
Salt=1500 according to my Aqua Logic P4, so it doesn't have enough salt to even run, it turns itself off.

Is it normal it went up?

Thank you!

Added 3 x 2.85 Litre jugs of Bleach in the early evening.

Checked pool around 11:30pm

FC=9
CC=2.5
TC=11.5

Check the next morning at around 7:00am, and it did rain a little but not sure how much.

FC=7
CC=2
TC=9

Water is blue but I can't see through it.

Don't know what to do now, appreciate any help please.

Maybe I'm doing this wrong, I had Algae because the pool is closed for thw winter and it was opened green, initial shock made it blue but not see through.

I have a SWG but there is only 1500ppm of salt in the pool and the SWG is not on yet.

My Target shock has been 13-14, and my CYA should be 30 according to the amount of Stabilizer I put it, since the pool inititally was green, should my target be 19 as indicated by the pool Calculator for Mustard Algae? my Algae was green, not yellow, so I'm not really sure.
 
JasonLion said:
Shock can be anywhere from 13 to 20 assuming your CYA is really 30. Higher numbers work more quickly.


Ok so there is no harm in actually targeting 20 instead of the 13 the Pool Caluclator tells me to, if that's the case I guess I would have saved money just by aiming high and knowing for sure it works vs the target of 13 I have been hitting and keep having to re-hit, my local hardware store had the 2.85 litres of 6% bleach @ 1.00 each, I think it would be almost the same using the 5Litre Purox Pool bleach which sells for about $5.

I should keep the FC 20 all day long until it keeps the 20 until the morning and CC = .5 ?

Or can I just add enough now so it hits 20, verify and then do it once more after Sun down?
 
How frequently it is worth raising FC depends on how quickly it goes down. If FC is going to zero in an hour, then you want to be adding more chlorine every hour, but if FC will stay above 12 all day, then waiting till evening to add more is just fine.

Hope that makes sense :)
 
ok now i'm confused.

Last night I shocked the pool to a FC of 20.5 and a CC of 1.

this morning at 7am, I got the exact same reading so I passed the overnight test but the pool is stll not clear, very cloudy and milky, and greyer in the deep end.

I'm not sure what to do next.
 
You will have passed the overnight test when the water is clear and you have a CC of .5 or less, along with a drop of 1 or less FC. Continue to keep the pool at shock level and keep filtering.
 
Keep your FC where it is....it'll come down and you'll need to add more. Use these three criteria as guides to stop the shocking process...

1. Your water is crystal clear.
2. You lose less than 1.0 FC during the FC overnight loss test
3. Your CC's test is .5 or less

You may actually have killed almost all the algae and, in theory, just keep filtering until your water is clear but, for simplicity's sake, I think it is less confusing to just let your FC stay high until you accomplish the three things above.
 

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duraleigh said:
Keep your FC where it is....it'll come down and you'll need to add more. Use these three criteria as guides to stop the shocking process...

1. Your water is crystal clear.
2. You lose less than 1.0 FC during the FC overnight loss test
3. Your CC's test is .5 or less

You may actually have killed almost all the algae and, in theory, just keep filtering until your water is clear but, for simplicity's sake, I think it is less confusing to just let your FC stay high until you accomplish the three things above.

Could my filter have issues? it seems hight at 33 but I backwashed and it stays there, and I can't remember if it is always that high.

Should I stop brushing after I shock, I've done it several times already and that's what really makes the deep end grey.
 
If you have a sand filter, it could takes a few days for the cloudiness to clear up, once all the algae is dead. You can try adding a bit of DE to the filter to speed things up or as a last resort some clarifier, although that does not always work.
 
duraleigh said:
Should I stop brushing after I shock, I've done it several times already and that's what really makes the deep end grey
If you don't brush it up, you must vacuum it out. One way or another you have to get it out of your pool.

You just jogged my memory, normally I'm at the pool store following their direction and I've always had to use that clarifier, I just didn't remember. I really wanted to avoid buying anything from the pool store, the only thing I had to buy was the Stabilizer, which I think everyone buys from the Pool store.

I
 
duraleigh said:
Should I stop brushing after I shock, I've done it several times already and that's what really makes the deep end grey
If you don't brush it up, you must vacuum it out. One way or another you have to get it out of your pool.

Do brush every time you Shock? I'm guessing my Algae has to be gone as my FC did not change over night, but my CC is still 1. So I didn't want to brush up a grey cloud again if I could avoid it based on my overnight test. Thought at this point I can wait for it to clear up and then I will Vaccum when it is clear.
 
Rockstead said:
duraleigh said:
Should I stop brushing after I shock, I've done it several times already and that's what really makes the deep end grey
If you don't brush it up, you must vacuum it out. One way or another you have to get it out of your pool.

Do brush every time you Shock? I'm guessing my Algae has to be gone as my FC did not change over night, but my CC is still 1. So I didn't want to brush up a grey cloud again if I could avoid it based on my overnight test. Thought at this point I can wait for it to clear up and then I will Vaccum when it is clear.

Combined Chlorine means your chlorine is still working. oxidizing something in your water, or most likely in your case, still fighting algae. No FC loss overnight is difficult to explain in this situation. Either the accuracy of your test is off, or you do not have enough FC to continue oxidizing the combined chlorine (chloramines).

I'd bump you FC back up to Shock level, above shock level actually & make sure you do not drop below shock level until your CCs are below 0.5
 
My CC finally dropped to .5 but my FC dropped from 20.5 this morning to 8 when I checked it this evening. I'm going to shock it a little over 20 and hopefully this does it.

I'm hoping the fact that the CC finally dropped to .5 is positive.
 
Rockstead said:
My CC finally dropped to .5 but my FC dropped from 20.5 this morning to 8 when I checked it this evening. I'm going to shock it a little over 20 and hopefully this does it.

I'm hoping the fact that the CC finally dropped to .5 is positive.

It is a positive, now you are ready to perform the overnight test.

Last night test was invalid because of your CC of 1.
 
I wouldn't call it invalid, more like insufficient. Passing the overnight FC loss test means there is nothing growing in the water, but it doesn't mean it is time to stop shocking. Shocking should continue as long as there is either CC >0.5 or overnight FC loss.
 
OK I don't know if I'm doing anything wrong, when I test using the Magentic Stirrer, I just let it keep spinning while I add drops to it, I don't stop/start it between drops.

Last night about 2 hours after placing the Purox, I had a FC of aprox 19.5, this morning I stoppedmeasuring when the FC reading was above that number.

I then did my CC and it had risen to 1.5

The only thing I did was brush the pool again an hour after putting in the Purox.
 

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