2 speed pumps and timers

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Scottman said:
I'm confused, in an earlier post any reading ohm other than zero was a problem and now you say zero is a problem. I did another check and it is definitely 18 V between one and four. Thank you for your patience with helping me with this I'm just getting frustrated because the motor and pump were brand new out of the box a week ago and seems to work fine when wired directly. I was looking forward to cranking up the heater and using it this weekend and now I feel it isn't safe. I can't understand how the gfi isn't tripping if I have a short in the motor.
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Sorry if I'm contradicting myself. Thought I was keeping good track of this one.
There should be no connection between any motor lead and the case of the motor. Also, no connection between any motor lead and ground. That equates to an infinite reading on a meter. 0 ohm is a dead short. infinite ohm is an open. There should be some reading between motor leads. 22-30 sounds reasonable.

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On the question of the GFCI. It is possible that it isn't connected correctly. I have one of those for my hottub wiring and it was not installed correctly by the electrician that wired the house. I noticed that the white curly wire wasn't connected to anything. I looked it up on line and fixed it.
 
As a quickie sanity check, make sure your meter is working fine by measuring a known resistor and make sure it has fresh batteries. DVMs (digital volt meter) can provide erroneous readings with weak batteries.
 
Ok, I believe I've been misinterpreting the ohm meter. When I touch both leads together it reads 0.00, when no leads are touched it reads 0.L. When I go from any motor lead to ground or motor casing it reads 0.L meaning no continuity correct?
So my motor is fine? With the 104 on and the 106 off, on the 106 I get these readings on the 106, 1&2 0v, 1&3 14.6 v
1&4 0 volts, 2&3 9.4v, 2&4 0v, 3&4 10v

All other readings were exactly as you stated they should be
 
So where the heck are those voltages on 1 and 3, 2 and 3, 3 and 4 on 106 coming from ????????????

There is no wire even hooked to number 3 except for the internal connection to the relay.

It must be stray induced from the timer clocks. GRRR!!

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Okay. So here's what we do next. Hook up the white wire and the red wire from the motor to the appropriate places on the timers. Do this with both timers OFF.
 
I'll be leaving for home soon, so I might not answer right away.

What you are looking for is this. Once you have only those two wires hooked up, you should be able to turn on the 104 and the pump should run at A speed. (i think it's low for your motor) If you flip the 106 ON, the motor should stop.

Turn both timer OFF. Disconnect the RED wire, connect the BLACK wire to it's correct connection.

Turn on 104. Nothing should happen.
Turn on 106. Motor should run and the other speed.

I should be home by the time you get to here...
 
Sorry it took so long to reply, it finally quit raining so I've been putting my time into framing up the collar of the pool for concrete. Everything works as described in your last post except when the 106 is turned on with the low speed red only hooked up, it does not shut off.

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I should have mentioned, with both timers on I'm still getting 120 v at the 2 spot in the 106
(Red wire)
 

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Motor is 220V 2 speed. We've even disconnected the wires from the motor itself and at the timer. I've come to the conclusion that there is a problem with the 106 timer. Is has voltage at connection 2 when On or OFF. Should only have connection to 2 when in the off position.
 
Thanks to all for your help on this. Since the season is over here I just am utilizing the 104 timer. Next spring I think I'll have a Hayward dealer install the automation system so I can run everything with my iPhone.
 
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