15yo pump finally died, what else should I be replacing/upgrading at this time?

GlendaCtPool

Bronze Supporter
May 7, 2021
8
Austin, TX
After helping my aging pump limp along with bearings and a capacitor over the past few years, it seems to have finally given up the ghost. My question, in short, it how has technology advanced over the past couple of decades, and what all should I do at this juncture to ideally minimize my future maintenance. I know I could simply replace the pump, but would like to do an overhaul where hopefully I don't have to deal with this area for the next several years. I'm not trying to spend a fortune, but also not looking to cheap out and skip something I'm going to regret next season. Here are a few thoughts below, can the pros out there please help me fill in the blanks? If it helps, I have an 8,000 pool in central texas that we keep open 9-10 months/ year. Thanks!
  1. Pump--sounds like variable pumps are now the way to go these days. Is there a particular brand or model I should strongly consider over the others?
  2. chlorinator--mine has been rigged and sub-optimal the past couple of years. I love the idea of automatically handling pH and chlorine through something like the "Pentair Intellichem" system. Does this thing work as advertised? Is it worth the money? TBH--and even though the pool math app makes it super easy--I know that I have a hard time remembering and staying on top of the chemicals and if this thing works great I'm very interested to pursue it. Thoughts?
  3. In-floor cleaners. I see these pop up sometimes but honestly have know idea if this thing works as it should. Thoughts? should I replace this while the other items are being replaced?
  4. Nature 2--I've used this thing a couple of seasons and skipped it a couple of seasons and personally I honestly thought it did little.
  5. Centrifugal filter--this thing was a waste of money. May sell it on ebay or move it to my aquaponics setup.
  6. PVC--Wanted to replumb basically everything that's above ground as there are a few leaks currently patched (amazingly well, I might add) by some "as seen on TV" leak wraps I bought at Lowes.
  7. Filters--The tank seems to be in-tact. this I was planning to re-use unless there is something much easier to use or significantly lower cost over time.
 

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What horsepower pump do you have now? It would help to see the rating plate on the top of the motor for the most accurate info. You could then replace the motor with a variable speed motor. those Hayward Super 2 pumps were very good pumps and worth the upgrade IMO.
 
What horsepower pump do you have now? It would help to see the rating plate on the top of the motor for the most accurate info. You could then replace the motor with a variable speed motor. those Hayward Super 2 pumps were very good pumps and worth the upgrade IMO.
So no luck; th weather has worn it clean. If it helps, the pool is 8,000 gallons. It has 3-4 rarely used waterfalls and the big Jandy filters; the centifugal filter seems pretty useless, I may move it to my aquaponics...
 
Do you have any automation now that runs the pump? If so you want to stay with the same pump as the automation and that seems to be Jandy from the looks of it.. Jandy has to be bought and installed from a company as they do not do DIY anything..
 
So no luck; th weather has worn it clean. If it helps, the pool is 8,000 gallons. It has 3-4 rarely used waterfalls and the big Jandy filters; the centifugal filter seems pretty useless, I may move it to my aquaponics...
Seeing that you have an in-floor cleaning system, best guess is that you have at least a 1.5hp Hayward Super 2. It could be 2hp, just can't tell. I know that's the pump model, I've seen hundreds, even if it has Leslie's brand on it. A Century V-Green ECM27CU motor would bolt on, give you the power to run your in-floor cleaner at the high speed (as the pump itself would still be the same). This would allow you to clean the floor for a few cycles, if the system is working, and then slow the pump down for energy savings and long filter runs. You have no automation, and if you don't have an attached spa no real need for it, but it could be made to work with a V-Green motor. As always, the best option is a completely new VSP. Hayward makes a couple, a 1.85hp which might not run your in-floor system and a 2.7hp which would. These are both in their TriStar line, which is all you should consider in the Hayward brand for your system. I like the Haywards as the user interface is a little simpler than Pentair. Pentair Intelliflow and Max-E-Flow are excellent also, just a little more difficult for the average pool owner to use (no insult intended and a lot of controversy, I'm sure).

Yes, get rid of that "cyclone" thingy. Also the Nature2. I had one (given to me for taking their class) and got rid of it within a couple of years. If you want to add a mineral system to your pool, look into the Pool Rx. You could use the blue, smaller model. (Second controversial subject)

If you can bypass the in-floor system and just use your pressure-side cleaner (Polaris?, I see a booster pump peeking in the picture) you could go with the smaller horsepower VSP. If your floor cleaning system and other cleaner aren't working, many here recommend robotic cleaners. I have very little experience with those but most people seem to like them.

Change the pump and you will have to do some re-plumbing anyway. Might as well get it done at once.

IntelliChem systems are a few thousand dollars. If you have the funds and want to spend it why not? Just be aware that they are not an "install and walk away" item. The maintenance on them is more difficult than normal pool maintenance and you have to regularly clean and replace some expensive proprietary sensors.

You would be better off getting rid of the inline chlorine feeder (or just not using it), in my opinion, and just using a floating tablet feeder.

While I'm not a big fan of Jandy filters (parts cost too much for my taste), all large capacity filters like yours use about the same cartridges so there is no pressing need to replace your tank if its not damaged. If the manifold is damaged, CMP makes an excellent, lower-cost replacement. Just installed one on Monday. The only thing easier would be a sand filter.
 
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Do you have any automation now that runs the pump? If so you want to stay with the same pump as the automation and that seems to be Jandy from the looks of it.. Jandy has to be bought and installed from a company as they do not do DIY anything..
No automation, and honestly not sure if I want it or not. I believe the only thing I'll be salvaging here is my polaris pump and the jandy cartridge filters.
 
Seeing that you have an in-floor cleaning system, best guess is that you have at least a 1.5hp Hayward Super 2. It could be 2hp, just can't tell. I know that's the pump model, I've seen hundreds, even if it has Leslie's brand on it. A Century V-Green ECM27CU motor would bolt on, give you the power to run your in-floor cleaner at the high speed (as the pump itself would still be the same). This would allow you to clean the floor for a few cycles, if the system is working, and then slow the pump down for energy savings and long filter runs. You have no automation, and if you don't have an attached spa no real need for it, but it could be made to work with a V-Green motor. As always, the best option is a completely new VSP. Hayward makes a couple, a 1.85hp which might not run your in-floor system and a 2.7hp which would. These are both in their TriStar line, which is all you should consider in the Hayward brand for your system. I like the Haywards as the user interface is a little simpler than Pentair. Pentair Intelliflow and Max-E-Flow are excellent also, just a little more difficult for the average pool owner to use (no insult intended and a lot of controversy, I'm sure).

Yes, get rid of that "cyclone" thingy. Also the Nature2. I had one (given to me for taking their class) and got rid of it within a couple of years. If you want to add a mineral system to your pool, look into the Pool Rx. You could use the blue, smaller model. (Second controversial subject)

If you can bypass the in-floor system and just use your pressure-side cleaner (Polaris?, I see a booster pump peeking in the picture) you could go with the smaller horsepower VSP. If your floor cleaning system and other cleaner aren't working, many here recommend robotic cleaners. I have very little experience with those but most people seem to like them.

Change the pump and you will have to do some re-plumbing anyway. Might as well get it done at once.

IntelliChem systems are a few thousand dollars. If you have the funds and want to spend it why not? Just be aware that they are not an "install and walk away" item. The maintenance on them is more difficult than normal pool maintenance and you have to regularly clean and replace some expensive proprietary sensors.

You would be better off getting rid of the inline chlorine feeder (or just not using it), in my opinion, and just using a floating tablet feeder.

While I'm not a big fan of Jandy filters (parts cost too much for my taste), all large capacity filters like yours use about the same cartridges so there is no pressing need to replace your tank if its not damaged. If the manifold is damaged, CMP makes an excellent, lower-cost replacement. Just installed one on Monday. The only thing easier would be a sand filter.
Thank you, this is all great information.

To be honest, I'm not convinced that the floor cleaner works as it should, but honestly I'm so pleased with the Polaris that I'm not sure that even if the floor cleaner were working that I would notice.

So what I'm reading is omit Nature 2, floor cleaner, cyclone, tablet feeder. (May I ask why you like the floaters better than plumbed in?)
So I don't have the money to blow, but would pay for the intellichem if it were a "set and walk away" proposition, but the more I read it sounds like it's not that at all. If I still need to test regularly, than I'm not sure I see the point?

There are enough patched leaks on here that I'd prefer to remove the "Texas-sun UV-baked for 20 years" plumbing than just throw a band-aid on things. So if I'm just looking at a relatively sinmple "replumb and replace the pump," are there any pumps other than the hayward tri-star I should be considering?

Thanks for all your insight, it's very much appreciated!!
 
May I ask why you like the floaters better than plumbed in?
Having a feeder plumbed-in is okay if you have the room, but if you have (or plan to install) a salt water generator, space might get tight and it's just not needed. Tab feeders don't get used much because of the CYA concern, so it's just a waste of resources. A floater is just as convenient.
 
Having a feeder plumbed-in is okay if you have the room, but if you have (or plan to install) a salt water generator, space might get tight and it's just not needed. Tab feeders don't get used much because of the CYA concern, so it's just a waste of resources. A floater is just as convenient.
So I've read that if you're indifferent about the water "feel" that salt doesn't have a large cost or maintenance advantage over the long term. I see you're in SA, would you agree with that for what our general needs are in central Texas?
 

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The 5-year cost comparison of liquid versus an SWG is about the same. If the SWG cell lasts longer you do better in value. I was a jug-dumper for my first 7 years, adding 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) to my pool each day. Not the worst thing, but a little inconvenient, not to mention buying and storing the bottles. A couple years ago I converted to salt and am pleased I did. No more manually adding chlorine which has of course increased in price considerably over the past couple years. Having a SWG is the way to go.
 
Hey Glenda !!! The break even size for SWGs (before supply issue prices) was the low teens in gallons. 12k-15k depending on normal fluctuations in liquid chlorine prices. With an 8k gallon pool, you would need some steep markups on bleach to break even, which at the moment are probably close, but won't likely remain this high long term.

The problem lies in that to purchase any system, the bulk of the cost is the initial small system. Going with larger systems becomes much more cost effective long term. A 40k unit for example, has double the lifespan of a 20k unit when used on the same pool, yet only costs about 20% more. For cost alone, many folks with smaller pools don't want to invest when the payoff takes so long.

Now. For feel of the water and ease of use, the SWG is king. When properly dialed in and monitored to ensure they are doing their thing, 'maintaining the pool' couldn't be easier. Many people glady spend on the system fot the convenience it brings. It all comes down to how much you value your time and effort testing/adding daily with bleach.

Either way, you can add a few bags of salt and get the feels, regardless of chlorine adding method.
 
Hey Glenda !!! The break even size for SWGs (before supply issue prices) was the low teens in gallons. 12k-15k depending on normal fluctuations in liquid chlorine prices. With an 8k gallon pool, you would need some steep markups on bleach to break even, which at the moment are probably close, but won't likely remain this high long term.

The problem lies in that to purchase any system, the bulk of the cost is the initial small system. Going with larger systems becomes much more cost effective long term. A 40k unit for example, has double the lifespan of a 20k unit when used on the same pool, yet only costs about 20% more. For cost alone, many folks with smaller pools don't want to invest when the payoff takes so long.

Now. For feel of the water and ease of use, the SWG is king. When properly dialed in and monitored to ensure they are doing their thing, 'maintaining the pool' couldn't be easier. Many people glady spend on the system fot the convenience it brings. It all comes down to how much you value your time and effort testing/adding daily with bleach.

Either way, you can add a few bags of salt and get the feels, regardless of chlorine adding method.
Ahh, this is good to know. I didn't realize you could get a larger unit, and more importantly I also didn't realize the day to day maintenance was less. We had a pool when I was growing up (early 80's) and I used to hate vacuuming it so much I swore I'd never own one...til my wife found this house and promised she'd take care of it, similarly to how kids promise they'll take care of a wanted pet. Anyway, guess who takes care of the Dang thing? Every. Single. Time. I have no interest in taking care of it, to be honest, and I find it quite a chore to constantly monitor the water and add chemicals (though the poolmath app has been a huge help). Anyway, I thought the intellichem was my way out of this mess but it sounds like it may not deliver as promised...So how much less maintenance is the salt? Is there an easy way to balance the pH as well?
 
The SWG adds chlorine daily for you. It has a small learning curve and then just needs spot checks and occasional tweaks. 'Maintenance' once it's set up is to press a button and be good for a couple weeks.

An intelliPH or stenner pump will do the same for acid dosing. It will add what you tell it each day to keep the Ph down and you'll spot check and need an a occasional tweak of a button

A robot will keep the floor clean.

Calcium, CYA and Salt can checked monthly and usually don't need any adjustments if following TFP protocol.
 
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The SWG adds chlorine daily for you. It has a small learning curve and then just needs spot checks and occasional tweaks. 'Maintenance' once it's set up is to press a button and be good for a couple weeks.

An intelliPH or stenner pump will do the same for acid dosing. It will add what you tell it each day to keep the Ph down and you'll spot check and need an a occasional tweak of a button

A robot will keep the floor clean.

Calcium, CYA and Salt can checked monthly and usually don't need any adjustments if following TFP protocol.
Wow, ok. Yes, this definitely sounds like what I'm interested in. Thank you!
 
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I think a SWG is exactly what you are wanting... I was gone for 5 weeks and my pool was just fine, FC was at 9 when I returned and the pool was crystal clear... :)
 
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