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Thread: Busted Ortega return valve

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    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    8

    Busted Ortega return valve

    My suction and return 3 way diverter valves are the old Ortega style. The suction side seems to still function properly but the return has all kinds of issues. For one it is terribly difficult to turn, often to the point where it feels like the handle will break, despite the fact that it isn't turned all the way yet. It also seems not to divert the water properly or, at least, completely in the direction you set it. When I turn the valves both to spa and turn on the heater I can still feel a fair amount of warm water coming in on the pools return pipes. I suspect that the inside of the valve is all screwed up and is causing it to route the water improperly as well as causing the difficulty in movement.

    So it seems like this valve needs to be replaced. Any recommendations on what to replace it with? Also these valves are below the pool level so how do I stop the water from pouring out when I cut the pipe to replace the valve?
    13'x28', 11,000 Gallon, In-Ground, Plaster, Pentair FNSP36 Diatomaceous Earth Filter, Pentair Whisperflo WFE-6 Pump, Raypak P-R206A-EN-C Heater, Spa which overflows into pool

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    Jul 2015
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    Gilbert,AZ.
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    123

    Re: Busted Ortega return valve

    You need to replace the old Ortega's with Jandy "never lube" valves, replace both 3-way valves, you will wish you had done this a long time ago when you see how much easier the valves turn.

    Are you sure you are below pool level? or is it the spa making you think that?

    I will also tell you that replacing the valves is best left to someone who does it for a living, and doesn't need to use unions in order to get it done.

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    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    8

    Re: Busted Ortega return valve

    Quote Originally Posted by pool&spatech View Post
    You need to replace the old Ortega's with Jandy "never lube" valves, replace both 3-way valves, you will wish you had done this a long time ago when you see how much easier the valves turn.

    Are you sure you are below pool level? or is it the spa making you think that?

    I will also tell you that replacing the valves is best left to someone who does it for a living, and doesn't need to use unions in order to get it done.
    I don't think I will need any unions to switch the valves out. The valves are T shaped and the two sides have 90 degree bends going downwards as well. So I should be able to dig everything up a bit and cut the PVC below the 90's and then glue the new valves in place with new 90's. As an electrician I have done a fair amount of PVC work, though none of it has been on pressurized lines.

    I've seen the Jandy valves around and heard they are the best. Where do you guys buy your valves and PVC stuff online?

    The valves are definitely below the water level. We live on a hill and the equipment is all located a short distance downhill (maybe 12-15 feet) from the pool and spa. The equipment is probably 3-4 feet lower than the pool.
    13'x28', 11,000 Gallon, In-Ground, Plaster, Pentair FNSP36 Diatomaceous Earth Filter, Pentair Whisperflo WFE-6 Pump, Raypak P-R206A-EN-C Heater, Spa which overflows into pool

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