Ok, lets see....your CYA is really considered 50 (either 40 or if above that its 50. No middle ground) and considering you're in FL, you may need to raise that to our suggested CYA of 70 because of having a SWG and all that FL sunshine.
You can refer to these charts:
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Pool School - Recommended Levels
So at 70 CYA you want to target your FC at 5, no less than 4 at any time. If your pool loses 2ppm FC a day(for example), adjust your SWG so you test perhaps 6 or 7 then it will cover the loss and you shouldn't drop down to below 4. I'd add about 30 ounces of CYA and wait a week to test in case you need more. Its important not to over shoot this so creeping up on the desired level is better.
Your pH is too high, perhaps even higher than 8.2! It needs to be dropped to around 7.3 (to help avoid scale due to that high calcium). Pool Math tells me that about 61 ounces of Muriatic Acid will do that. This should be done pronto. This will also help lower your TA which is a skosh high.
Then add a gallon of 8.25% bleach to your water to spike up the FC to around 6. I based this on your pool being about 22K gallons?? Is that about right?
Now how did your calcium level get so high? That seems unusual particularly in FL with frequent rains and water draining from overfilled pools. This will cause you problems if you don't address it. Lowering your pH as I suggested will help, but the only way to get rid of calcium excess is thru water exchanges. Are you confident of your testing for this one? Can you test your fill water to see how hard it is?
Ignore the BR (bromine) as I doubt you have any...right?
Retest about an hour after adding the bleach and MA and let us know what you have, ok
Is your SWG producing chlorine? Is that salt level the amount your device wants? That would be too low for mine, but they all differ. Please also add the SWG info to your siggy line so we all see you use one.