Signed the contract this morning, New build Orange County, CA

Okay got some sun today I wetted the coping so you can get an idea of the color, you can't see the quartz crystals or all the color due to the tons of dust. Stone yard said it will look bad until cleaned and sealed. So thoughts? Be honest. This stuff is so thick and hard they can't make irregular shapes like flagstone decking. I had three choices:
1. Try to use large pieces and only make small cuts on the curves no way around that.
2. Have them cut every piece but it will not look random, it will look cut to some degree.
3. Use a mix of solid non-cut pieces and cut pieces.

Your thoughts? A lot of this has not been cemented down yet, so I can make some changes. The blue tape is on a couple pieces that have hairline surface cracks, not sure why they set these, will talk to them on Monday. They have been proceeding with option #3.

50B2348E-31BD-4D95-9DD1-3C5C2DB75F6A_zps47egmxgj.jpg
 
I like it, but I've been known to give boatloads of false information...

Fix that overflow while you can. What did you decide about the fireplace drain? Has there been a decking decision?


Thanks, your opinion does carry weight with me regardless of what others have said. Yeah I will talk to they about the overflow, that looks terrible on the tile line, will use the one in the pour a lid auto fill or skimmer as you have suggested, I'll assume there is one there.

Brian, if the knock out on the auto fill (for the drainage) is not the same elevation as the top of the bond beam will this creat any issue? The installation guide states the flange should be the same level as the finished bond beam. Currently the punch out is about 1-2" above the bond beam.

The soils engineer could not make it over on Friday, will try again tomorrow. As for the firepit, I will get his thoughts.
 
Yes that does make a difference. In that case, the skimmer would be a better option since your typical water level will be mid line in the skimmer mouth and the knockout at the back of the skimmer is about 1-1/2" above that point. The skimmer knockout may be hard to access now that the gunite is in place though.
 
Perhaps the auto fill needs to be pulled and set at the correct level since that's not set in cement? Not sure they are going to do anything about that. So, we can't access the skimmer knock outs, so the options are reset the auto fill or leave the current over fill drain. That seems like way to loose a lot of water just due to splash out. If I have to live with the tile line OF drain I guess that's life? Wondering if I really need it in SoCal. The other concern is they plan to tie into the drains that go to the street, legally pool overfill need to go to sewage, not the street.

Photos might help. The auto fill overflow knock out is currently 1 1/8" higher than the bond beam.
65D4EF58-4D71-42EB-81C2-B723C519775E_zps2xcdw3be.jpg


Installed tile line drain.
245C7E51-FD87-4430-A728-691C0DF127BE_zpsua2iexoc.jpg
 
I didn't realize that the auto filler wasn't set in concrete as well. If that's the case then absolutely lower it so that the overflow of the auto filler will give you about 1" of play to the expected waterline. The water line should be determined by the mid point of the skimmer mouth. I'm sure somebody has a laser there right now so that should make this an easy task. You do not want the overflow higher than the bond beam. The height your coping guys placed the current one is correct, just not very aesthetically pleasing.

The auto filler is a good place for the overflow since it is not subject to the surges that you would get if it were connected to the skimmer or an open pipe in the pool like you were given. The float has a lot of adjustment so more importance should be placed on the height of the overflow in relation to the water line as opposed the top of the filler in relation to the bond beam. You'll probably need a skimmer extension collar (or two) to make up the difference to the top of the deck for both the filler and skimmer. I may even have a couple extras if you get into a pinch.

If the deck is going to be concrete then PLEASE use Pour-Lids. I believe you have a Stetson auto filler so you already should have a clear one for the filler and would only need one for the skimmer.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yes the auto fill unit will be perfect height for the coping, almost exact. Coping guys did not install it, it was the plumbers.

You are correct if I lower the auto fill unit so the over fill is at the correct height we will need an extension collar. I think the auto fill overflow drain would be much nicer than having that open notch at the tile line.
 
Odd they did it that way. Every unit I've ever seen says to install flush with the bond beam...and that's the Stetson auto filler because that's the only one I use!

Yes sir, you are correct, that's what the install instructions say, I briought this up at the time it was installed, was told I did not know what I was talking about. So I figure the can just cut the 1.5" PVC and glue a sweep and an 90 on the end to lower it to the correct level, will need to move left or right about a foot to lower the elevation. I will call the PB I. The morning to see how much this will cost me, lol.

Photo of install directions
879D1745-2A2B-405D-89E8-5781F1609868_zpskgsb0bmb.jpg


Photo of the auto fill plumbing before shotcrete
AD7BA076-A2F7-406F-823F-B605C598ECEF_zpsopdd0dnv.jpg

4AD6B131-D2AF-447C-AC8F-4D127A612DE2_zpsrbi69p6q.jpg
 
They didn't install the equalizer line correctly either. Its supposed to be a straight shot. It will likely not effect anything but jeez, read the instructions!

The way that is plumbed will actually work in your favor since the section at the 45 degree angle can be cut and reattached at the newer lower elevation.
 
They didn't install the equalizer line correctly either. Its supposed to be a straight shot. It will likely not effect anything but jeez, read the instructions!

The way that is plumbed will actually work in your favor since the section at the 45 degree angle can be cut and reattached at the newer lower elevation.


Lol, the common theme to this project! If you have any thoughts the auto fill will not operate correctly let me know, I will just scape that idea as well as scrap the currently installed vacuum attachment drain nod just run without a overfill drain, I am really not worried about rain in California.
 
It will work just fine...once its where it should be. I would not be without one in-spite of the negative views they get around here.

You do not need an overflow, its easy enough to pump a little water out with the pool pump. The last storm we got added 2" to my pool for what its worth. I wouldn't be without one though.

Vacuum attachment drain?
 
It will work just fine...once its where it should be. I would not be without one in-spite of the negative views they get around here.

You do not need an overflow, its easy enough to pump a little water out with the pool pump. The last storm we got added 2" to my pool for what its worth.

Vacuum attachment drain?

I was making a joke about that drain they installed, it looks like a large vacuum attachment.
well I will call the PB in the morning, to get the plumbers out to relocate the auto fill unit. I figure it's going to be on my dime, oh well! Either way I am pulling that drain they installed, I think it looks terrible on tile line and we will have to notch the tile around it.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.