1st Test Results with TF-100

During a SLAM you lose a lot of chlorine during the day and that is normal since sunlight will break down more chlorine. What is important in your situation is the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. So if I interpret your results correctly, you get up to 30 ppm FC at night and the next morning you end up with 19 ppm, correct? That's a very large drop if there was no sun on the pool during that time. See what happens between tonight and tomorrow dawn to see if the loss is the same or if it is lower.
 
During a SLAM you lose a lot of chlorine during the day and that is normal since sunlight will break down more chlorine. What is important in your situation is the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. So if I interpret your results correctly, you get up to 30 ppm FC at night and the next morning you end up with 19 ppm, correct? That's a very large drop if there was no sun on the pool during that time. See what happens between tonight and tomorrow dawn to see if the loss is the same or if it is lower.


Ok ChemGeek i think i just reached nirvana...10pm last night added bleach tested at 34ppm....this morning 6:00am tested and came out with 34ppm with .5-1 CC......:party:
What is the procedure from here on in?????
 

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Given test errors of +/- 10% and even relative test errors (such as for an OCLT) of +/- 5% and given the high SLAM levels I think the pool is in very good shape since earlier losses were huge and now they seem to be gone. Certainly you can keep the SLAM for another day and try the OCLT again, but you may find it varying -- your hitting 34 ppm exactly was sheer luck since you may have 1.7 ppm test error at such high FC levels (i.e. do you really think you are measuring 10 ml exactly -- you probably aren't better than +/- 5% or 0.5 ml in you water sample size). Certainly you can go another day for confirmation, but I believe you are done.
 
Given test errors of +/- 10% and even relative test errors (such as for an OCLT) of +/- 5% and given the high SLAM levels I think the pool is in very good shape since earlier losses were huge and now they seem to be gone. Certainly you can keep the SLAM for another day and try the OCLT again, but you may find it varying -- your hitting 34 ppm exactly was sheer luck since you may have 1.7 ppm test error at such high FC levels (i.e. do you really think you are measuring 10 ml exactly -- you probably aren't better than +/- 5% or 0.5 ml in you water sample size). Certainly you can go another day for confirmation, but I believe you are done.
ThankYou Chemgeek for your blessing and also all your help...Think i'll go one more day just to confirm OCLT...Tested CYA yesterday seems to be 100-120 should i keep my FC at 10ppm based on my high CYA reading...(double the reading for 60 on chlor/cya chart)??? Also at what FC level will my tests be valid again?
 
Your minimum FC/CYA level is 7.5% of the CYA level so assuming 120 ppm CYA that would be 9 ppm minimum. So you want to add more so that you end up no lower than 9 the next time you dose.

The pH test is the main one that doesn't work well above 10 ppm FC but if you measure the pH quickly (i.e. read it soon after adding the pH drops and mixing) I think you'll be OK. With the CYA in the water it takes a little time for the chlorine to react with the dye and Taylor has enough neutralizers in their test to handle up to 10 ppm so being a little over isn't a disaster. The TA test can be affected by high FC in terms of different colors though still a valid test, but I don't think your FC is high enough to affect that test. So I think you'll be in OK shape. Just get your CYA level lower over time through water dilution as a lower CYA will be easier to manage in case anything goes wrong (i.e. the SLAM FC level is lower at lower CYA levels).
 
Your minimum FC/CYA level is 7.5% of the CYA level so assuming 120 ppm CYA that would be 9 ppm minimum. So you want to add more so that you end up no lower than 9 the next time you dose.

The pH test is the main one that doesn't work well above 10 ppm FC but if you measure the pH quickly (i.e. read it soon after adding the pH drops and mixing) I think you'll be OK. With the CYA in the water it takes a little time for the chlorine to react with the dye and Taylor has enough neutralizers in their test to handle up to 10 ppm so being a little over isn't a disaster. The TA test can be affected by high FC in terms of different colors though still a valid test, but I don't think your FC is high enough to affect that test. So I think you'll be in OK shape. Just get your CYA level lower over time through water dilution as a lower CYA will be easier to manage in case anything goes wrong (i.e. the SLAM FC level is lower at lower CYA levels).
:bowdown:.........Thank You Sir!!
 
UPDATE****
I had some free time this weekend so i thought i'd break out my sump pump and battle my CYA of 120....Well 14 hours later...and about 16" of water pumped out and replaced ( wanted to do more but had to quit....needed to refill before sun got too high) My latest readings are:

FC 7
CC.5
PH 7.5
TA 160
CH 350
CYA 80
Everything looks good except the TA which i did twice..Figured i made a mistake...But got the same results???? I assume i have to lower my PH to 7.2 and then aerate???? For how long???
My pool has never looked better in the 22 years i've had it....And also its so nice not to be at the mercy of some pimple faced pool store kid...Any and all comments and suggestions will be appreciated....And thx to all who have guided me through this!!!!View attachment 42055
 
Don't freak out about your TA being too high. It may be just fine for your pool.

TA helps keep your pH from bouncing around wildly so monitor your pH daily and see how long it takes for it to reach say 7.8 or maybe 8.0. If it reaches that pH level in a day or two, then you probably will want to stock up on acid and start working on lowering the TA with the acid. This can take time but the key is to monitor your pH and judge from there.
 
Don't freak out about your TA being too high. It may be just fine for your pool.

TA helps keep your pH from bouncing around wildly so monitor your pH daily and see how long it takes for it to reach say 7.8 or maybe 8.0. If it reaches that pH level in a day or two, then you probably will want to stock up on acid and start working on lowering the TA with the acid. This can take time but the key is to monitor your pH and judge from there.
Ph seems to be stable at 7.5 for the past week or so.....pool school says to bring it down to 7.0 and aerate??? and keep repeating until it comes down into range 70-90+.......i have that 14.5 % acid can i add all 122oz. at once??
 
Nice looking, clear blue pool you have there! I'm new at this, actually our pool won't be completed until next week and I'm already stressing about properly maintaining it. I was going to ask you if you had just purchased the home, since it was so out of balance, but after reading all the replies I see that you were dealing with pool stores this whole time. Wow, thankfully I found this site prior to our startup and hopefully I'll be able to stay on top of it. Thanks for posting, I've learned a lot reading this thread.
 
Nice looking, clear blue pool you have there! I'm new at this, actually our pool won't be completed until next week and I'm already stressing about properly maintaining it. I was going to ask you if you had just purchased the home, since it was so out of balance, but after reading all the replies I see that you were dealing with pool stores this whole time. Wow, thankfully I found this site prior to our startup and hopefully I'll be able to stay on top of it. Thanks for posting, I've learned a lot reading this thread.
My pool never looked better...Really glad i switched to bleach....Eventually i'd like to get a chlor. feeder.....i like traveling and the bleach is kind of labor intensive (babysitting the pool)...but i cant complain...Good luck with your pool!!
 

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