Intex pool always going green

Jul 24, 2015
33
Canada
Hi I have a 15'x 42" intex pool. Last year we had a smaller one and same issues. It's always going green. I check my water daily with the test strips which check ph levels, chlorine, alk and stabalizer. I keep the chlorine on the higher side as well and shock the pool weekly. Yet no matter what I do the pool goes green. The pumps that come with these pools are small so I upgraded to a larger pump. For the past 2 weeks I've been treating the pool, shocking it, sweeping it etc. it's finally clear yet when I brush the bottom there's are green cloud in the water and also every time I clean the filter (ever few hours) it's green. This seems to happen then within a day or so we're back to green. .
what is the problem? Why is my pool always going green, were at the point of getting ride of it for the $$ were spending and not being able to use it. Is it the heat? The tree hanging over? Me? I just don't understand this is always happening. We just want to enjoy a pool.
Please help.
 
What are you using for chlorine? What are using to test your pool? I hate to say it, but it's the shock that's making your pool green. All you need, usually, is bleach and a good test kit.

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I assume you are going to take it down at the end of the season? If so here is a good place to start - http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
 
Hi and Welcome!

Point Blank: Before you buy a pool, hot tub, or horse watering trough; a reputable test kit is a must.

I also did not know this when I bought my pool. Live and learn. And to me this is one of the great things about owning a pool; learn to do everything yourself and save money, time and be thankful you are not a servant to the pool store.

Now go order that test kit (there's only two) and buy about 10 gallons of liquid chlorine and get ready for a transformation!

Also post post pictures of your progress.

Oh, and again welcome to TFP.
 
All your answers are in the pool school Pool School - TFP Home Page, but I'll summarize what's likely going on for you:

1) you have been using chlorine tablets and shock packets which contain stabilizer (cyanuric acid, or CYA). This builds up in your pool and never goes away until you drain and refill with fresh water. So your CYA levels are probably way too high. Test strips will not show this.

2) the CYA binds with all the chlorine you add to your pool to create combined chlorine (CC). CC does not kill algae. Free chlorine (FC) is what kills algae. Your test strips only show total chlorine (TC), which is CC plus FC. So while the strips may indicate that you have enough chlorine, it's all CC and not FC, so algae still grows.

3) every pack of shock you add just adds more CYA, making your problem worse.

The TFP method is to only add the proper amount of CYA necessary to protect your chlorine from the sun and no more. Then use only common household bleach to add chlorine and nothing else to raise your pool to the proper levels of FC to prevent algae.

In order to know precisely what your levels are, you must have a test kit capable of measuring them accurately. Test strips are called "guess strips" for good reason. They cannot be relied upon, nor can most pool store testing. There are links all over this forum to the recommended test kits. The money you spend on one will be quickly recovered by the money you will save by not needing a bunch of expensive chemicals for your pool.
 
Ok so. I shouldn't be using reg chlorine pucks at all. Just reg bleach? Sorry I'm so new to pools it's like reading a different language.

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Where do I find a test kit for CYA and how do it get it out of the pool? Once that's fixed then I just use bleach? Is that it? And once I know what the cya level is how do I get that down. Draining and refilling the pool is not an option. Then after that's down if I just use regular bleach and keep that level right it should be ok?
 
Laura,
Go to Canadian Tire. They sell liquid chlorine for $3.99 a jug. It is 12% chlorine. This is a very good price in Canada. Not sure where you live in Canada but this is the price in midwestern Ontario. We add a cup of this a day and we have a very sparkly pool. How long do you leave your pump running a day? The longer the better with these pools, especially in this heat. Good luck.
 
They don't sell to canada. If I can find a cya test kit what can I do? What lowers this in the pool? Should I just switch from chlorine to bleach till I can find a kit?

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I've had the pump running none stop for the last 2 weeks. When my pool is clear I try to run it at least 8-12 hours a day. I want to switch to bleach but trying to figure out this cya thing and how to lower it. Not sure what will happen if I just switch from chlorine to bleach. Especially cause my cya levels are probably sky high
 
First thing to note: chlorine and bleach are the same thing. bleach is chlorine and water. when you are saying chlorine, you mean pucks, which isn't really just chlorine. when we say chlorine we mean just chlorine. Might be from Crappy Tire as liquid chlorine or walmart as bleach but either way it's just chlorine.

There is only one supplier of pool testing stuff in canadia. It's lowery and associates or something like that.

How many pucks have you put in the floater since you started using them? we might be able to get a guess from that.
 

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Sorry yes they are chlorine pucks for. Canadian tire. I'm not sure how many I've used. I keep it full so probably 5-6 since June. On top of that I've been using the granular shock from Canadian tire. That I've used a lot! Basically when it goes full on green I've shocked everyday till it turns white then I let the filter do its work. The the pool goes clear but again when I brush it has that green smoke as I call it in the water, then again after a day or 2 it's green again and I start over. Again I'm new to pools and I read that you can never use to much shock so I've probably used way to much. :(
 
The only way to lower your CYA level is to drain the pool and refill it with fresh water. How much we can't say, because you don't have a test kit that will measure CYA. But if you've been using pucks and bags of shock, it's a good bet that your CYA level is astronomically high. So I'd start by draining 75%. Then get a test kit ordered and post the levels here and we can help you from there. It's really not complicated once you figure out what's going on. You'll end up adding a few cups of bleach per day to maintain a sparkling clean pool, once we get everything back in balance.
 
Ok so I'm draining some of my pool now. I brought a water sample to the store and they said they can't even test it due to the high chlorine reading. She said pool is probably in shock from all the shock. Lol. She also said since there is a large tree over hanging the pool this will probably be a constant issue. So in the mean time I'm emptying a large portion of water then I'll refill pool is already going green again so what do you think is my next step. How do I shock but not over shock and if I get it clear how do I keep it clear...
 
Ok so I'm draining some of my pool now. I brought a water sample to the store and they said they can't even test it due to the high chlorine reading. She said pool is probably in shock from all the shock. Lol. She also said since there is a large tree over hanging the pool this will probably be a constant issue. So in the mean time I'm emptying a large portion of water then I'll refill pool is already going green again so what do you think is my next step. How do I shock but not over shock and if I get it clear how do I keep it clear...

I would take what they told you with a grain of salt. You're with us now, their ideas about FC level and shock levels are no where near what really fixes pools.

Yes they are almost always shocked when TFP method folks bring their samples in for testing. Most of the stores recommend FC from 1-4 all the time except when shocking and even the shock level recommendations are super low. The last time I came out of a store with a printed report I had been temporarily out of FAS-DPD reagent and had been keeping my daily chlorine level replenished based on an OTO tester; the kind that turns yellow, then gold, then brown, then orange, and then red at higher FC levels. I had been doing this for several weeks, so I needed to know if I had developed cc's and a second opinion on FC since OTO ain't all that accurate. They told me to slow down on my chlorine use and to raise my TA with fancy-packaged baking soda. My TA was @65 (perfect for my pool). FC was at 6 and cc's were @.61. They said nothing about the need to shock the pool, but the report told me to shock it with tool little chlorine to fix the problem.

Technically, they weren't completely wrong, well they wouldn't have been wrong if the cc's were under .5, because my CYA was only 33 and my upper target should have been 4 to 5 at that CYA level with a non-swg pool with no organic matter, but according to their test, I had organic matter, and so I should have been SLAMing the pool. But yet the salesperson told me I was keeping too much chlorine in the pool and in reality, I had way too little. See how they don't make sense.

I was just being cautious at the time and making sure I was keeping enough FC in the pool while waiting on my refill. I soon got the refill; confirmed that I had cc's; got my ph adjusted; and started a SLAM. But that was a wake up call to me; not to let myself run out trying to stretch it out, because you've got to have the FAS-DPD to do a SLAM the right way, as you will see; no way around it; and you need to do an accurate measurement with the FAS-DPD on a regular basis in order to determine whether or not you need to SLAM, and to ensure that you're keeping FC in the target range. The FAS-DPD lets you get good readings at that high FC level even if the pool store can't, and I'd bet it's not all that high. It just looks high to them.

But all of that will come later; first you'll be getting rid of some CYA, and then SLAMing, and then once you kill it all, you'll have an easy-to-maintain pool the TFP way! Since you chuckled at the pool store's advice, sounds like you're reading and understanding TFPC and realizing how messed up their advice is sometimes.
 
Unless I missed something we've still not convinced you to get one of the test kits. You are getting one right?

Without a K2006 or a TF100, you're not going to be able to do a SLAM and fix the pool. The pool store has already said they can't read your pool FC level, because it's too high (that statement doesn't reflect well on them). When you get your CYA down to an acceptable level, you'll have to SLAM the pool to get rid of the green stuff forever. During this entire SLAM process, you'll have high FC levels, and you'll have to test at that high level every couple of hours when you start. So you've got to have one of the kits to fix this problem.

Once you get the kit, run a full regimen of tests, and post them on here on this thread. Have lots of liquid chlorine or bleach on hand, then folks on here can help you through the process and fix your pool. But you've got to come that far, before we can help you, and we want to help you.
 
You said earlier that draining and refilling was not an option. However, if getting an appropriate test kit also looks like 'not an option' (understandable with the Canadian price for the K-2006), then I would encourage you to reconsider the drain and refill approach. If you read that seasonal pool guide that someone linked above, you'll see that with a fresh refill, and knowing exactly what you are putting in the water and why, you can use a relatively cheap OTO test kit to keep pH and chlorine in line. With that approach you don't need CYA test reagents, simply because you know how much CYA you added to the fresh water. If you don't put in too much CYA, you can manage daily chlorine levels within the range of the OTO test. If you are assiduous in not letting algae get started, you can get through a swim season with this approach.

Food for thought, maybe...
 
I'm honestly not sure what the heck to do. I read all this and it freaks me out. Right now I have pool half drained. I'll drain another quarter of it but then what do I do. Even if I buy on of these tests for cya I probably won't get it for weeks. Leaving me with only 2 weeks left of pool season. So what can I do now. Once I refill the rest of the pool. There is algae growing already. So once it's full what should I do? Do I shock it again using shock? Do I switch to bleach? I just want to use this pool for a couple weeks to enjoy summer. Next year I'll make sure have this new testing kit ready to go
or should I just take it down? If it's going to be high on shock that we can't even swim no pointing guess.
Sorry im getting so discouraged and all the money I've spent and we haven't even used it in weeks. What a mess.
 
I would seriously consider step 7 in the guide to seasonal pools (linked in an earlier post on this thread). You're already planning a 75% drain, and you're hoping to still get a few weeks of swimming time this summer, so...

Getting a good test kit for easier pool maintenance next year is a good choice - things will be much less frustrating when you can get valid measurements of what's in the water!
 

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