Lurker, new pool owner, SLAM'ing in progress, need help

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You know we are going to clone you right??????????? Look at you! Read posts, ordered and got test kit, used test kit and posted numbers, took and shared pics. Filled out pool info and location! There is NOTHING we had to ask you to do! WOW!

Hey guys can we keep him???????????????

I am very hopeful that we will be able to help you with your stains once your SLAM is done. Keep doing what you are doing.

BUT please tell me you have let the FC drop a time or two to let the kids swim........Tell the Ms. Kim said so!

I have two shirts that I rotate wearing out to add my chlorine each night. It only took one "lost" shirt to teach me that trick.

Kim

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Get a turkey baster or steal the one from the kitchen to use to squirt bleach water right into the light hole. I would leave the light out for now so you can make sure the treated water is getting in there good!

Oh and take off your return eyeballs as that is another good hiding place another person found.

Kim
 
Richard, there is a closed off return. No lawn irrigation. Not ready to cut it yet but maybe after the summer.

I'll check the returns for algae as well, thanks for the suggestion Kim.

Light is staying out for now. We just moved so I couldn't find a baster if I wanted.

Kids have not been in yet. I was unsure it would be safe until done. Not sure about PH either. I was sick this morn so I didn't add bleach from 8pm until 1pm today. Dropped only 6 ppm with sun light also. Light removal may do the trick.
 
Light gasket replaced, price was close to Amazon. Got 871 2oz for $15, wife forgot to use the $5 coupon, oh well. Hopefully the last $30 they get from me if possible. But hey, the light floats now that it isn't 1/2 full of algae water. Not sure how it was still working. Calcium line on bulb about 1/3rd from bottom.
 
I don't get up early enough to test before dawn. I put it up to 22 last night and it was 17 this morn, 0.5 CC. Some light debris in deep end, might be dead algae.

Still going. May drop in gopro to check light housing... if I can find it in the move boxes. If not maybe my mask. Another round of cleaning all filters/baskets today.

Water looks so clear in a cup.
 

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Anyone know why I have 2 eye returns and then one pipe that is maybe 1 1/2" long with a slight raised ridge near the edge, instead of another eyeball return?

The pipe likes to shoot out air bubbles every 15 sec or so unless I bleed filter. Eyes don't shoot out bubbles.
 
Just to be certain ..... that 3rd pipe ... it is a return flow (pressurized water does come-in) and not an over-fill drain right?

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If not an over-flow drain, I wonder if it was plumbed that way for an accessory (cleaner or fountain)?
 
Thanks the the reply TS. It is at the same height as the returns and is constantly pushing water in. Based on its position it seems to push stuff by the skimmer though. Previous owner left an eyeball with threads in the pool box and while the wall plate is the same, I am unsure if I can just swap it. I may try to help the water rotation.

Btw, it does look like some hose is intended to be attached based on the raised lip on the pipe.
 
My feeble attempt at using google draw the first time gave me this:


The circles are eyeball returns. They are moving the water clockwise. The bottom right angled rectangle is the pipe. Bottom left is skimmer opening and basket. Middle circle is drain in the deep end. Notice how the pipe directs water to move over the drain and past the skimmer? That is why I was curious about replacing with an eye, to keep moving stuff clockwise to skimmer instead of watching leaves get caught in the stream and pushed across the pool away from skimmer.
 
Well, I suppose you have a few options: Try to see if the plate, once removed, will allow a standard eyeball fitting to work; leave as-is for other uses like a fountain for aeration or to cool the water temp a bit; or if the eyeball thing doesn't work-out, simply attach a 45 or 90 degree elbow to it (probably doesn't even need to be glued) just to enhance water flow to a certain direction as to not disturb the area near the skimmer.
 
4 ppm loss from ~8pm last night to 11am today. It is at 11 ppm now. Letting kids swim today. I got in and brushed everything with mask last night (anything dolphin or long brush could not reach). Letting it drop below 10 to check PH. Then I will Slam it another day or so and do overnight test. I may be wrong but I think floor is losing some staining in deep end.
 
Citric Acid at $1.79 per pound. If you know it's an iron stain and not copper, then there's Ascorbic Acid at $5 per pound. Generally speaking, ascorbic acid works best for iron stains and citric acid works best for copper. However, since lemons worked in your case and they have a lot more citric acid than ascorbic acid and that citric acid is less expensive, I'd get the citric acid.
 
Thanks cg, but what if I got ahead of things and ordered a lb of ascorbic acid already? Cancel or try it?

P.s. What will this stuff do to my PH or other numbers? I also understand I want my FC to drop low for most effect, true?
 
If you've already ordered the ascorbic acid it will likely work since the stain is more likely to be iron than copper.

Yes, you want to drop your FC because ascorbic acid will drop it all the way to zero so you will just be wasting ascorbic acid if the FC is high. If you have to drop your FC in a hurry less expensively, you can use hydrogen peroxide where you use a volume of 3% hydrogen peroxide equal to what the volume of 6% bleach would be to achieve existing FC level. See the Pool School article Metals in the Water and Metal Stains.

Ascorbic acid will lower the pH so just start out at a normal pH around 7.5 or so or wherever you are at so long as it's not very low (i.e. not 7.2).
 

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