10 Day Old IC-40 Just Went Dark

[JamesW]

You can see where the wires connect and line up with the holes.

 

[JamesW]

If necessary, disconnect the white plug and do a continuity test to see what wires go to which holes.

 

[Lake Placid]

Well, looks like there's no need to dust off my soldering skills and hot wire the IntellipH PC board -- this connector looks perfect.

Just to be thorough check in pins INSIDE the connector. Mine was caught early enough that the outside of the pins on the board appeared fine, but the pins were beginning to show signs of charring on the inside of the connector.



Use the locators slots by the pins to identify your wire colors. The large slot at 12 o’clock is the green wire. The left pin by the small slot at 9 is the red wire, and the right pin by the small slot at 3 is the black wire. The white wire is at 6 o’clock and has no small locating slot directly adjacent to it.

 

[Brushman]

You can see where the wires connect and line up with the holes.

My eyes had not caught that, thanks.

 

[Brushman]

Just to be thorough check in pins INSIDE the connector. Mine was caught early enough that the outside of the pins on the board appeared fine, but the pins were beginning to show signs of charring on the inside of the connector.

Man, so good, that I will do.

 

[Brushman]

View attachment 565007

Use the locators slots by the pins to identify your wire colors. The large slot at 12 o’clock is the green wire. The left pin by the small slot at 9 is the red wire, and the right pin by the small slot at 3 is the black wire. The white wire is at 6 o’clock and has no small locating slot directly adjacent to it.

And this is a great puzzle solve too, thanks LP.

 

[Brushman]

If necessary ... do a continuity test to see what wires go to which holes.

Thanks James plus it would be useful to just do a continuity test on this because I haven't done it before and it's a skill worth having.

 

[Brushman]

This is great to know and there is zero chance I would have ever gotten to ground on this (pun intended) without all the incredible help -- huge props and many thanks to each of you exceptional TFP contributors. I'm delivering 37.5 volts out of the IntellipH via the female cable plug that serves the IC-40 cell. That's a lower value than the 43.2 volts being received from the transformer up in the low voltage area of the Intellitouch, but I am guessing that delta would likely be explained by the power being used by the IntellipH to do all the things it's doing in real time?

 

[Brushman]

I guess the only thing I've got left except a bad cell or cell cable is that maybe the female cable plug at the bottom of the IntellipH where the IC cable arrives could be defective? It doesn't feel like it screws in incredibly tight, but that as the failure point would be inconsistent with the fact that it worked perfectly for the first 10 days with the new IC-40, and likewise the recently replaced IC-20 never suffered any power loss at any time. The flow switch just failed on that and it was old enough that it seemed like prudent PM to just replace it. Going to check the inside portion of the pin connector that was an original focus as Lake Placid suggests, but even if I find something there, since I've got what I think is good voltage downstream from that point I don't think even a hidden, budding problem there could be the cause of the current IC is totally dead failure.

 

[JamesW]

Seems like it is probably a bad cell.

Should be a warranty item.

What is the date on the back of the cell?

 

[Brushman]

Will check that date after I pull it tomorrow, but it was a new buy in the last thirty days from the Pentair Store on Amazon.

 

[Lake Placid]

I guess the only thing I've got left except a bad cell or cell cable is that maybe the female cable plug at the bottom of the IntellipH where the IC cable arrives could be defective? It doesn't feel like it screws in incredibly tight, but that as the failure point would be inconsistent with the fact that it worked perfectly for the first 10 days with the new IC-40, and likewise the recently replaced IC-20 never suffered any power loss at any time. The flow switch just failed on that and it was old enough that it seemed like prudent PM to just replace it. Going to check the inside portion of the pin connector that was an original focus as Lake Placid suggests, but even if I find something there, since I've got what I think is good voltage downstream from that point I don't think even a hidden, budding problem there could be the cause of the current IC is totally dead failure.

I agree with @JamesW it’s likely a bad cell. It could be in the cable that connects the cell, but usually a cable failure is a broken wire that would be obvious due to frayed sheathing etc. The fact it the cell had been working fine indicates the cable is probably ok. Generally wires don’t just fail like that….not that it is impossible but it’s unlikely.

The fact that you’re measuring the correct voltage out of the female connector at the intelliph in spite of it being a loose connection means the correct voltage is there. I wouldn’t initially suspect the connector as its design is basically a plug that stabs directly into the female receptacles and the nut just captures it in place. The capture nut doesn’t need to be super tight, but just tight enough to ensure the connection provides solid continuity and the plug doesn’t just fall out of the connector.

The voltage drop you’re seeing from the Intellitouch output to the IPH connector to the cell could be explainable by the fact that the IPH splits that incoming power to the Stenner pump on the acid tank and the SWG in addition to its minimal usage for the control board. However the voltage drop could also be explained by increased resistance in the connectors due to corrosion or the other maladies we’ve previously discussed, so it’s always good practice just to inspect and rule out those potential issues. Typically an IC20 wouldn’t induce the connector failures an IC40 or 60 would because of the difference in power consumption, but you never know.

Keep on it…you doing really well.

 

[JamesW]

it was a new buy in the last thirty days from the Pentair Store on Amazon.

Pentair does not sell on Amazon.

Link to seller?

 

[Brushman]

Pentair does not sell on Amazon.

Link to seller?

I went by face value, never a good idea, but it still seems like this storefront has to be Pentair.

 

[Brushman]

In case it's useful to see it, I went through the steps to return a defective product on Amazon and this page popped up at the end of that. I'll make time to speak with them tomorrow. Thanks to you guys, I'll probably freak them out with everything I seem to know.

 

[Brushman]

Here's a question -- if they were willing to replace with an IC-20, should I think about doing that? The IC-20 has the capacity to generate for our small pool, I just bumped up to the 40 to reduce run time per hour with the faint hope of extending cell life since the 40 would never have to run as many minutes per hour as the 20 does.

 

[Lake Placid]

Here's a question -- if they were willing to replace with an IC-20, should I think about doing that? The IC-20 has the capacity to generate for our small pool, I just bumped up to the 40 to reduce run time per hour with the faint hope of extending cell life since the 40 would never have to run as many minutes per hour as the 20 does.

The IC20 should be plenty capable of generating for your pool, but you theoretically paid for a 40….why accept a lesser replacement? Me I’d push for direct replacement for the 40 assuming it’s truly pentair you’re dealing with.

 

[JamesW]

I went by face value, never a good idea, but it still seems like this storefront has to be Pentair.

Pentair does not sell on Amazon.

You have to look at the Seller to see who you are really buying from.

You can click on the Seller link to see the seller's information.

For example.



Detailed Seller Information
Business Name: Shasta Industries
Business Address:
3750 W Indian School Rd
Phoenix
Arizona
85019
US

About Seller:

We are an eCommerce and brick and mortar retail store.

Our parent company was established in 1966.

If you are sure that you want the products you are about to buy, we want to earn your business.

We have a near 100% on-time shipping record.

Due to the actions of some online shoppers, we have implemented a rigid return policy. (Please see below.)

Any attempt to send us back items that we didn’t send you will be reported as mail fraud to federal & local authorities.

Note that we keep records of the serial numbers that we ship with every order & we mark our packages with TS Pool Supply stamps and stickers.

All returned items are verified for our markings before we even accept them from the shipping carriers.

Please use Amazon's return authorization system to request returns for UNOPENED BOXES ONLY.

As in line with Amazon's return policy the following terms and restocking fees can and will apply:

30 Day Return Window FOR UNOPENED BOXES ONLY

Item must be unopened, unused, uninstalled, and re-sellable condition.

Customer responsible for all shipping charges to and from.

Customer responsible for all shipping charges to and from TS Pool Supply. This will be deducted from any valid returns.

OPEN OR USED ITEMS:

If you have opened your product, do not return before reading this below.

Otherwise, in accordance with Amazon’s return policy, it will be refused when delivered to us.

Any OPENED packages (NO EXCEPTIONS EVEN FOR DEFECTS) sent to us without TS Pool Supply's self-generated RMA visually on the box, will be refused and returned to the buyer.

Amazon generated RMA’s on OPEN BOXES WILL BE REFUSED AT DELIVERY TIME.

Defects need to be addressed with the manufacturer.

We will work manufacturers to facilitate a return or exchange only after receiving their WRITTEN authorization to do so.

Then we will send an RMA to you along with a return label.

AGAIN- Any opened packages sent to us without OUR SELF-GENERATED RMA visually on the box, will be refused and sent back to the buyer/shipper.

Returned freight orders will have actual freight charges deducted from the refund.

An RMA authorization number needs to be obtained from TS Pool Supply Customer Service Department prior to sending your order back to us.

Without this number, we will not accept your package and it will be returned to you.

Customer responsible for all shipping charges to and from TS Pool Supply.

This will be deducted from any valid returns.

 

[Brushman]

Thanks James. If I'd thought it through more carefully, or bought Pentair equipment more frequently, I'd probably have had my "they don't sell direct" moment, but once I saw "The Pentair Store" banner I mistakenly assumed they had changed their chain of sale strategy. As a guy that buys a lot on Amazon, I should have known to look for the specific Seller designation. Grateful you pointed that out.

 

[Brushman]

"Note that we ... mark our packages with TS Pool Supply stamps and stickers."

I thought to myself, how did you miss all those stamps and stickers, you dufus? Fortunately I had saved the box, so I just went out to the garage and checked. There is not a single TS Pool Supply stamp or sticker anywhere. None. Only the usual Pentair seals and warnings. There is a single, small print reference to TS Pool Supply in the corner of the UPS shipping label, but that flew under the radar.

At the end of the day, when we choose to buy and install ourselves, versus buying from a Pentair authorized service provider and having them install, we understand the warranty trade off we're making and do so knowingly. First time I've been bit by an early failure doing it on my own. Given all the testing you helped me do on this product, I should be able to get Pentair to honor their limited warranty pretty easily. But even if this one did turn out to be an out of pocket loss, I'd still be light years ahead cost-wise given all the other Pentair equipment I've elected to buy and replace on my own over the years. Plus, I've gotta admit, I kinda get a kick out of doing it.