0 CYA and 0 FC. Need advise

[LovinPoolLife]

Once the ammonia is deactivated , your chlorine can finally get to work to kill off the algae. You'll hopefully need another 8 gallons, but you'll never know. It's better to have too much on hand than not enough. Eventually, you'll use it.



Don't be sorry. We've all been there. It's a continuous learning curve. You're doing great!

I truly can’t thank you all enough. For 7 seasons I’ve maintained and held a very well balanced pool and never needed to really ever add anything other than some balance pack to raise alkalinity once or twice a season. And of course the liquid shock after a pool party or heavy rain. And some just for weekly chlorine. Last summer I stopped adding algaecide weekly. I felt with a bal. Pool and good FC level it was just another chemical I didn’t want in the pool. Maybe I shouldn’t have stopped using it ??? Also when I closed the pool, I opted to not use the winter shock. Instead I put 2 gal of liquid shock in the week before closing to super shock and then bal. the PH, Alk. And added winter algaecide.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

You'll need to stop using using tabs. They'll get your CYA out of control again in no-time, and you're back to start without collecting 200$.

Only sustainable way is liquid chlorine. Or start thinking about a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. That's the way to go. You'll basically pay for a couple of years of chlorine upfront, but then you have a truly trouble free pool without the need to lug home jugs of chlorine.

We’ve thought about switching to salt water. But is that more corrosive on the equipment? Especially the heater

 

[Lake Placid]

I truly can’t thank you all enough. For 7 seasons I’ve maintained and held a very well balanced pool and never needed to really ever add anything other than some balance pack to raise alkalinity once or twice a season. And of course the liquid shock after a pool party or heavy rain. And some just for weekly chlorine. Last summer I stopped adding algaecide weekly. I felt with a bal. Pool and good FC level it was just another chemical I didn’t want in the pool. Maybe I shouldn’t have stopped using it ??? Also when I closed the pool, I opted to not use the winter shock. Instead I put 2 gal of liquid shock in the week before closing to super shock and then bal. the PH, Alk. And added winter algaecide.

You shouldn’t need Algaecide at all during the season. Chlorine will sanitize your water and oxidize waste. The reason Algaecide is so prevalent is because of the overuse of the trichlor pucks you’ve been using (along with a million other pool owners). The pucks can’t deliver enough FC in the proper ratio of the skyrocketed CYA they add, so Algaecide is recommended as a Band Aid to suppress the real issue which is CYA overdose. The little known fact to many is that the Algaecide also uses the FC your adding which reduces the limited chlorine’s efficacy even more. Copper is often added into Algaecides as it will kill algae, but it can, over extended use cause staining an a myriad of other problems.

Balance pack is overpriced baking soda. Save a few bucks and get cheap baking soda from Walmart. But if you read up and truly adopt TFP methods, employ consistent water testing with a quality test kit, you likely won’t need much of it either.

 

[mgtfp]

We’ve thought about switching to salt water. But is that more corrosive on the equipment? Especially the heater

You'd be surprised if you tested your salt level now, it's probably already nearly enough to run an SWG.

When chlorine is "used up", it doesn't just vanish, it turns into chloride. So, any chlorinated pool turns into a "salt" pool eventually. With an SWG you add a defined amount of chloride upfront via NaCl salt, and then keep recycling it into chlorine.

pH is a lot more critical than salt in terms of corrosion - and a salt pool at 3500ppm salt is still 10 times less salty then sea water, you just start tasting it a tiny bit.

Chlorine tabs are a lot more dangerous to heaters. They are very acidic, and when not watching TA, pH can plummet and wreck a heater in no-time.

Pool builders and pool shops keep scaring people off salt water, without actually understanding the chemistry. Most just prefer to see customers returning to buy their products on a regular level.

 

[mgtfp]

That was good teamwork @Lake Placid, you answered on the algaecide while I was typing my salt reply

 

[Lake Placid]

@mgtfp you know we’re all about teamwork here!

 

[Mdragger88]

TFP Tag Team

 

[SJPoe]

TFP Tag Team

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Once the ammonia is deactivated , your chlorine can finally get to work to kill off the algae. You'll hopefully [EDIT: NOT] need another 8 gallons, but you'll never know. It's better to have too much on hand than not enough. Eventually, you'll use it.



Don't be sorry. We've all been there. It's a continuous learning curve. You're doing great!

I think I already know the answer to this but….. after the ammonia is gone and I start targeting the algae with chlorine, would adding algaecide help speed that along? I only ask because I have a $40 jug of it that I purchased last year. And like I said, I really did stop using it. Maybe only once a month I’d put 3oz in. It’s the Algae Complete by Bioguard.

 

[PoolGate]

I think I already know the answer to this but….. after the ammonia is gone and I start targeting the algae with chlorine, would adding algaecide help speed that along? I only ask because I have a $40 jug of it that I purchased last year. And like I said, I really did stop using it. Maybe only once a month I’d put 3oz in. It’s the Algae Complete by Bioguard.

Generally no you don't want to use algaecide. Is it copper based? If so that's a 100% don't use it. Chlorine is all you need to get rid of algae.

 

[dBsooner]

I think I already know the answer to this but….. after the ammonia is gone and I start targeting the algae with chlorine, would adding algaecide help speed that along? I only ask because I have a $40 jug of it that I purchased last year. And like I said, I really did stop using it. Maybe only once a month I’d put 3oz in. It’s the Algae Complete by Bioguard.

The TFP way doesn’t recommend using algaecides to treat algae. The only time algaecide is ever mentioned is in winterization and only Polyquat 60.

A lot of algaecides contain copper. Which you cannot ever remove from the water unless you replace the water. Copper is bad. Metals are bad.

Edit: yep. The one you mentioned contains 13% copper sulfate pentahydrate. Don’t use that. Throw it away and consider it lesson learned.

Algaecide - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[LovinPoolLife]

The TFP way doesn’t recommend using algaecides to treat algae. The only time algaecide is ever mentioned is in winterization and only Polyquat 60.

A lot of algaecides contain copper. Which you cannot ever remove from the water unless you replace the water. Copper is bad. Metals are bad.

Edit: yep. The one you mentioned contains 13% copper sulfate pentahydrate. Don’t use that. Throw it away and consider it lesson learned.

Algaecide - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Definitely noted and will stop using it!! And I definitely willl not add it to my pool now. Liquid chlorine will be my best friend from now on. Thank you.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Generally no you don't want to use algaecide. Is it copper based? If so that's a 100% don't use it. Chlorine is all you need to get rid of algae.

I never knew that about algaecide and copper. I’m really learning a lot. As bad as it is to have my water issues. It’s definitely teaching me a lot about pool maintenance that I didn’t know. Thank you all!!!!!

 

[Newdude]

Algecide is counterproductive as it depletes your FC, which ironically, makes you need the algecide.

Which you have less of because the FC depleted the algecide.

And now my head hurts. THANKS

 

[LovinPoolLife]

Algecide is counterproductive as it depletes FC, ironically making you need the algecide. Which you have less of because the FC depleted the algecide.

And now my head hurts. Sorry about the headache LOL. AND WOW it’s no wonder pool stores push all this stuff. Buy this so you need that then buy that so you can fix this and so on. It’s a vicious cycle.

Can I ask where the test kit ships from. Just trying to figure out how long it will take to get to me in IL

 

[Newdude]

North Carolina. Nate ships daily during the week. I'm not sure what time his post office closes on Saturdays, though it's almost lunch and it would take time to process your order, so they'd probably be closed.

 

[PoolGate]

Can I ask where the test kit ships from. Just trying to figure out how long it will take to get to me in IL

 

[dBsooner]

Can I ask where the test kit ships from. Just trying to figure out how long it will take to get to me in IL

You can also email Nate and ask if he can upgrade shipping for you if you want it faster. But I’d use the upgraded shipping money to get a stirrer.

 

[LovinPoolLife]

North Carolina. Nate ships daily during the week. I'm not sure what time his post office closes on Saturdays, though it's almost lunch and it would take time to process your order, so they'd probably be closed.

Just ordered my TF100

 

[LovinPoolLife]

My neighbor who has a pool let me use their test kit to test my PH and Alkalinity. PH says 6.8 and Alkalinity is about 80. Should I balance these before I start the processes of killing the ammonia in a few days.