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Hey @wgipe , I just looked at another dead i5p board and (so far) the bridge rectifier on the 18vac input is shorted (it's the one made up of 4 individual beefy diodes, just above the comm port connectors). In this case, the 3rd diode from the left has a nice crack and is shorted, and I think...

agh, thanks for asking them about the separate boards... I was nervous the first time I pulled one apart, but if they just told folks how to do it I like to think it would have gone better (I use a wooden popsicle stick near each connector to carefully pry the boards up - being careful to pry...

yyyikes! i could see from the back side image that the transformer also got hot, but those photos didn't show those scorch marks!! if you've got a multimeter, see if the primary shorted to the secondary or the gnd tab (the board is toast, this is more out of curiosity)

Thanks James! that's much easier than flipping between both pages ;) So the burn corresponds to the green resistor hiding behind c4

The one I had had traces that had actually melted away... which yours does not have. But comparing the back side image to the top side image, you can see (on the top-side photo - from page 1) that it's that large-ish power resistor in the top right corner (partly hidden by capacitor c4) that...

I don't recall @ajw22 's board doing any weird like clicking relays or drawing too much current... so I don't think his relay drivers blew (or at least they didn't blow short). I still have it here somewhere so I'll take a look. but for yours, when you hear the clicking do you see any aux leds...

Bummer. Sorry to hear that yours croaked. Do you recall any storm events the day before it died? The faint clicking is interesting... it's not great, but at least it's doing something. @ajw22 's board did nothing at all, and three other guys had holes blown in chips on the board. Do you...

hey guys I'm sorry but I don't have any experience with these heater boards (I don't have a heater). I have however seen a Fenwal board that looked great until I flipped it over and saw a bunch of burned traces on the back... is the back side of yours ok?

if the chips don't solve it, it may be worth looking at the microswitches inside the valve actuators... Valve Actuators - Further Reading

@Pieroz as Allen said they are only sold as a matched pair with that key. I wrote a post about how to reset the code on the "Quest" version of this link, but you've got the earlier "Viper" version that has a Microchip brand radio module... I haven't figured out how to reset those codes yet. I...

hey @Jeffrosmit the prices of these things are ridiculous... the Easytouch is obsolete as Pentair is pushing the Intellicenter. Personally, I would limp the ET along rather than upgrade to Intellicenter because 1. I'm cheap and 2. the ET is more durable and much easier to fix than the...

D3 and 4 are ESD Suppressors / TVS Diodes (part SMAJ6.0CA)... they can be replaced, along with the 8-pin comm chip to their right. If the board is toasty or burnt you might have to do a little re-work of the traces with wire or copper foil.

Looks great! I've switched to an easier way to pull these off, and no longer use an iron and braid or a solder sucker... I have an inexpensive T12 type solder station and picked up a 40mm soldering tip/blade for removing the displays... it's something like this (I got mine from Aliexpress but...

ok, so this means the screenlogic cannot read from the outdoor board... it could be the screenlogic or the outdoor board, but my money is on the outdoor board since the pump can't talk to the outdoor board. depending on the revision of your mainboard you may have 1 or 2 comm chips (your board...

from the first post I see that the screenlogic reports firmware 1190, which is the latest... so that won't need to be updated. In addition to Allen's question... what do you mean by "or retrieve data"? Did he get an error trying to read data from the outdoor board, or could he not read any...

on my pool the Intelliflo is wired for continuous power and the filter relay is used to turn on my Aquarite salt cell (which is not controlled by the intellitouch).

i just re-read my post and want to clarify that the personality board diode has nothing to do with the board's "logic supply"... it just happens to be connected to it in such a way that somebody couldn't inject a voltage with the mod-telspa and blow anything up

just to expand on a couple of Allen's answers... IF a comm chip has failed, it is possible for it to fail in such a way that it can receive but not transmit, transmit but not receive, or not communicate at all. The only way to test would be as Allen pointed out. The "analyzer" could be an...

hey by the way... your Itech AC power source is a nice bit of kit!

You can connect multiple controllers (screenlogic and your indoor panel) to the J20 comm port on the outdoor panel. Before you mess with the wires, shut down your system first! (it is very important to power off the outdoor board so you don't blow up the comm chip... if you touch the red wire...

Hey folks, I use an old PE-Micro parallel port programmer with the prog-z software, so it's likely a little different and the error messages won't be the same, but... I have to power up the Easytouch board BEFORE I connect the programmer's jst connector to it, or I'll get a failed to connect...

you were right @ajw22 ... I DID enjoy reading it! Great writeup @aroby!!

to reset the address, see this post: Pentair Easy Touch help and if the annoying timeout errors prevent you from doing any of those steps, you could try to quickly erase the handheld's eeprom and then power it off - next time you turn it on it will ask to set the address.

Yeah, when the wireless remote can't talk to the outdoor board it keeps popping up the annoying timeout errors... but it can't communicate so even if the annoying message wasn't showing you won't be able to change anything with the remote. You should be able to change settings at the outdoor...

is this an Easytouch (4/8/lite) or Intellitouch? mode is auto/service/timeout, and the valve settings are pool/spa/fill/drain... 1. when you first flipped the toggle and nothing happened... was it in auto mode?, and were the valves set to pool? 2. when you set the valves to spa and the actuator...

if you get the old one and it doesn't include a power adapter for the indoor transceiver, any old 12 volt adapter you've got lying around should do it as long as it's positive tip and at least 300mA

Is the LCD showing anything at all? i.e. is it garbled or just blank, and is the backlight on or off? Shoot us a picture if it's hard to describe In lieu of that detail, if the comm port wiring (i.e. the cabling to the pump and remote transceiver and back to the outdoor board) is ok, then...

kevin did you ever figure this out? Page 2 of the manual below tells you what the leds mean, and in your case it's lost the link...

I've had a weird issue where boards wouldn't recognize a new VSF pump until I cleared them and reprogrammed. never figured out why. but, to answer your question... and this is from the pentair intellitouch manual, section "Erasing the System Memory": On the main Outdoor Control Panel (located...