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Be sure that the lid O ring has lube on it. Swapping a lid that doesn't have lube with another of the same won't fix the problem. If a valve hasn't been moved in a while, it can start to leak when it is. Lube the stem and lid O rings in any valve in front of the pump. Your pump is a Blue Haven...

What is the rated output of the transformer? Should be on the enclosure, but are listed as having a 12V and a 13V tap. Don't know of any rated at 3.8V. That's where I would start.

Rust in that area is most often indicative of a heat exchanger leak. For it to have rust the mounting flange for the heat exchanger, it must have been leaking for a long time. That flange is stainless steel, but not designed to be subjected to a lot of any water for a long time. The salinity of...

Doesn't hurt anything to do that if it makes you comfortable, but not necessary.

Trying to be precise in quantities is not reasonable with a swimming pool. Every Certified Pool Operator course I took, when discussing chemicals and dosing, started with the premise that we are accurate, but not precise. For example, I lost an inch of water to the North wind we had here for the...

If one of those lines with the blue-handled valves is going to the spa, unless the water enters above the level of the spa water, it will allow the spa to drain when the system is off unless there is a check valve in that line as well.

If you are talking about the tiny black tubing from the chlorinator, cut it an fold it over on itself. Use something, like a wire, to keep it folded over It shouldn't leak.

JVS270S (note the 270) = Hayward Tristar 950 = 2.7THP. Control panel is turned on the Hayward branded pump picture.

Yes, toss the floating weirs and get proper weir doors. They work better. Listen to Jimrahbe. Mine does the same, even with my very dirty, for pool purposes, yard.

You need a new gasket along with a good RTV sealant usually available at any Home Depot. Don't do it without replacing the gasket.

Best way is to get new O rings and replace them all.

Is that a vinyl pool?

Is it trying to start in the high-speed mode in the video? Try starting it in the low-speed. Sometimes it will. If so, that usually indicates the start windings are gone and it is new-motor time, unfortunately. Two-speed motors are all that good. Time for a variable-speed motor replacement, maybe?

The fact that you got 16 years from a NorthStar is amazing. They were only made for about 9 years then Hayward discontinued them about 17 years ago in favor of the TriStar. Un-officially it was because they had so many complaints (got that from the local rep). I gave up working on them years ago...

With the power off, remove the rear cover (1/4" nut driver, 1 screw in the center), try to turn the motor with, likely, a 9/16" wrench. If it won't turn it is not a capacitor. Be sure to replace the cover.

If you don't remove it from the track above, it shouldn't. Be sure to use a new gasket.

That "tube" is a 1.5" Mission clamp that should never be used in that application. It should be removed, especially since someone drilled a hole in it to install the feed for that tablet dispenser. Those two pipes should be glued with a PVC coupler if the ends haven't been distorted by the...

If your spa is raised, yes, you need that valve. If you allow the spa to drain completely, it won't be long before the plaster, if that is what you have, to start falling off the walls. If you don't want the Ortega (parts are still available for that check valve), remove the internal parts and...

File a warranty claim. Chasing an electronic problem in the drive will cause your pool to not be Troublefree.

You never want to remove any faceplate in a vinyl pool while water is above it. Water will get behind the liner.

Priming is a function built in to the pump, not a function of the Aqualink. It happens each time the pump re-starts only.

As the saying says, "Go big or go home!" Get the 950. You want to get a larger, by total horsepower, pump and run it slower. The 950 will move the same amount of water as the 900, but at a lower RPM, and if needed, more at the full RPM (depending on your plumbing), which would seldom if ever be...

No need to "bleed air" from the filter. The internal air relief will always do that for you. The air relief is there so that, when cleaning, you release any pressure that might be in the system before opening the tank. Compressed air is dangerous. Doesn't happen often that air gets trapped in a...

Sounds like a skimmer weir stuck in the "up" position. Pump primes, runs until the skimmer runs dry, enough water gets past the weir to fill the suction line, pump primes, runs, skimmer runs dry, ad infinitum or until you turn the pump off or release the weir. Very common issue as people start...

Savings, if the pump is used correctly, will pay for the pump. How fast depends on what you pay for energy now. In PG&E country it can be in less than 2 years while getting the other benefits of a VSP. In the US, while you can still find some, single-speed pumps have been illegal since July...

No reason for that check valve unless the equipment is below the pool, but its not really hurting anything. If you want, replace it with a FlowVis check valve/flow meter. Since you have 1.5" plumbing, try here...

For the sake of that very expensive heater, please do not use that chlorine-tablet feeder in the return line.

The age of the pump is not what cost you money. The new ones are virtually the same. Its how you are using it that cost money if you are running it at its highest speed. There is zero savings if doing that. Its a 3+ hp pump (yours could have been rated at 3.95THP) and that is a lot of...