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Thanks for the suggestions. It has 2 lights. Both are still underwater so I don't believe those are the culprit. I'll check the walls and look at the food coloring option.

We have a 25'x40'x3'6" 25,000 gallon gunite pool which is at least 20 years old. The previous owner had done DIY repairs over the years. Basically draining and patching it every 2-3 years. We knew it was leaking but had never quantified it until I converted it to salt water a few weeks ago...

That is very useful and at the same time, daunting. The side panels appear to be some sort of faux wood. The video said newer ones had an L bracket at the bottom. The good news is I just re-checked the warranty and it looks like it's warranted for 5 years (not 2) so may just have to contact my...

Couldn't get any decent pictures but can't see any screw holes or even staples. The outside is completely smooth. Also, can't get to the side panels through the access panel as it's blocked by either wooden walls or foam insulation. Won't get chance to take another look before the weekend now...

Yes, there is an access panel on one side for access to the electrics. That one has 6 bolts holding it on. There are no screws visible on the other 3 sides. I'll double-check tomorrow but don't think there are any screws.

I have a 2 year-old Hot Spring Sovereign about 3 months out of warranty. It has started losing water. About 1/2 an inch per week. Not enough to be obvious. Any ideas how to remove the sides without damaging them so I can look for the leak? I don't see any obvious screws or fasteners.

The salt level won't go down by evaporation. You will need to drain/refill to get it down. When the water level goes down by evaporation the salt is left behind.

Stepping stones coated in FlexSeal Available in gray to match your steps.

According to the EPA: At the present time the EPA guidance level for sodium in drinking water is 20 mg/L. The average SWG pool would be 150 times the recommended level.

I would be more concerned about the salt levels than chlorine levels. Most tap water is chlorinated anyway. I've looked into this before but could never find a definitive answer to acceptable levels of salt in drinking water.

I'm 80 miles from you in Gulf Breeze, FL so conditions are comparable. I have lost zero water in the last few weeks. If anything, it's increased with the rainfall. I would say you have a fairly major leak.

Rover - because he wanders around the pool.

Keep adding the acid to bring down the PH and the TA will follow. Eventually, the TA will get to the point where your PH will stabilize. My TA is now at 50 and my PH has been rock solid at 7.3 all summer. I don't have a spill-over spa so that doesn't affect me.

:goodpost:

Well, I don't need to run anywhere. My pool is perfect. :kim: He said he hadn't signed the contract yet so still some hope. I told him the only reason the PB wouldn't want to sell him on SW is because it takes away that recurring revenue they all like.

My neighbor mentioned to me they were looking at getting a pool installed. I told him to make sure he got a salt-water pool. He said he had initially wanted a salt water pool but their PB talked them out of it saying they were expensive in the long run and a 'smart pool' was the way to go. ...

Excellent decision. I wasn't being flippant with my previous comment. Electricity can kill. I am comfortable with electricity and am prepared to tackle most jobs although I am by no means a professional. However, gas is a different matter which I will leave to the professionals. It's...

Call a professional.

You don't have much to work with there. I don't see how you could replace one valve without dismantling the whole manifold. If you have to do that, I would use the opportunity to replace all 3 valves. I would also consider going to 2-inch pipe into the pump. Use 2 inch tees on top of each line...

I guessed that was the case. 20ft is pretty extreme. But even a 5 ft difference means that any air leak at the pump or filter would result in a loss of prime. Could be a bad PVC joint or a worn seal in the pump basket. Putting the check valve after the pump means every time you remove the lid...

According to my trigonometry calculations, this would put your equipment pad around 20ft (two storeys) higher than the pool. That's a LOT of head to overcome. When you turn off your pump, ANY air leak in the system is going to cause the water to return to the pool under gravity. When you turn...

It operates on a 3-hour cycle. So, if it is set at 50%, it will generate for 90 minutes and then switch off for 90 minutes. Then on for 90 minutes, etc. At 25%, it's on for 45 minutes, off for 135... While it's not producing, the numbers will be zero.

No. more pool store BS. The flow switch will prevent the SWG from running if no flow. If it continues to run, you'll get a build-up of chlorine gas and (potentially worse) hydrogen gas in the pipes until the plates are uncovered creating a potentially explosive situation.

I would start by cleaning the connector to the flow switch. Squirt some WD-40 in there. It sounds more like a bad solder connection (dry joint) on the main board. All working until the cell kicks in which creates load and the solder joint breaks down. If cleaning the connection doesn't help...

I recently tested my tap water out of curiosity and got 2.5ppm TC.

I used to have this Acurite which worked for several years. It included a remote sensor with a plug-in remote probe. When the sensor eventually failed, there were no replacements available (discontinued).

That's almost identical to mine... Hope it serves you better than me. Ambient Weather WS-14 Wireless 8-Channel Floating Pool and Spa Thermometer

​I have an Ambient Weather WS-14 floating wireless pool thermometer which I like when it works. Unfortunately, the second floating sensor has now failed in little over a year. Currently, the display on the sensor just flashes on/off. I bought the current sensor in December after the previous one...

If all else fails, get a rebuild kit: https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-9-100-9010-Factory-Tune-Up-Replacement/dp/B0028IY6KC Much cheaper than buying a whole unit and replaces pretty much everything that wears.

How are you using the test strip? You only need an inch or so of water. I made the mistake of fully immersing the test strips and got a false low reading. Consequently, I overshot the salt level (by a lot) and had to do a partial drain to bring it back down.