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Also, I just re-checked the pool skimmers. both of them seem to have hairline stress fractures, but they don't seem to be cracks all the way through and there's no give to the plastic, so not sure if these could be the cause. Can't say if I have ever noticed these, but the skimmer was...

Yes, there is a equalizing line between the pool and spa. When I shut off the spa schedule, I sealed that line to make sure the 2 didn't have any way to interact. The spa skimmer had cracked last year, so I used the pool epoxy/putty to seal it when I opened the pool. I assumed that was the...

In-ground pool, in-ground spa. Same equipment, but the plumbing in and out for both are separate, so I can either run the pool or run the spa. I have it set to run 24/7 for the pool with a 30 minute cycle for the hot tub each evening. Symptom: Water level in both spa and hot tub drops quicker...

Just an update...I watched it last night and caught it while it was back on, so it is cycling like it's supposed to. It doesn't seem to be 180 or 120 minute cycles, so not sure what it is. It's definitely not 60 minutes, so maybe 90 minute cycle. Just goes to show you can still learn something...

Thanks, that helps. so it says the AquaRite is 180 minute cycle, and 120 minutes prior to firmware 1.55. I'm running v1.4, so if I read the post correctly, it is at 120 minutes. So at 25% it should run for 30 minutes, then stop for the other 90 minutes. if it's 180 minutes total, it should run...

You're saying if it's at 100%, it's always generating, and if you have it on 50% it cycles on/off every ~30 minutes? I've never noticed that, but that would explain the behavior i'm seeing. The only reason I was alarmed at this behavior was because the last time it did this, it never cycled...

Yep, that's the article i reviewed after I replaced the thermistor and still had issues. Also looked through past posts and couldn't find the same issue I'm seeing. I timed things...I can set it to "auto" and it will turn on and run and sometime between 20 and 30 minutes it shuts off. Still says...

I have a Hayward Aquarite SWG with a T15 cell. The control board/cell were here when i bought the house in 2013. I replaced the cell last summer when it had issues. This past week we had some storms/power outages and my control board ran into the typical thermistor issues. When set to "Off" the...

Yeah, looking around online it says if it's software version 1.5 or newer, it supports all cells, but only way i know how to check the software version is to have it powered on (and in use). Other threads on the forum ask the same question regarding upgrading software or whether you can swap...

Yeah, neither my pool nor his has a breaker panel at the pool pad, only power lines that come out of the ground and into a junction box that then splits to the GFCI outlet/power switch for pool equipment and the light switch for the pool lights. I appreciate you sharing your breaker box there...

The pump is the Pentair 3hp Intelliflo (EC-011028). The SWG he got is the Hayward aqr9 (for 25K gallons). His pool is ~19K gallons. The surge protector you linked is something that would be installed at the circuit breaker inside the house? I'm not sure I follow what you mean by "This will go...

My brother bought a new home last year that has a pool and he's replacing his pool pump and installing a SWG this year with my help. He purchased the Intelliflo VS pump and the Hayward Aquarite SWG. He doesn't have a pool heater or anything else special, and he has a simple Intermatic T10X (not...

Thanks for that info. I did not update the SWG to pentair, so it will (hopefully) be the only manual thing I have to control. But the Aquarite I have has the same flow sensors and will say if it has no flow. My old Jandy heater also had a flow sensor, so if the MasterTemp does as well, then I...

The booster pump is to support the polaris vacuum we have. I wasn't aware those settings for the circuit would do anything, I just thought it was a label and set it as a cleaner. I've changed it back to "generic" to see if it continues to randomly come on. I've already begun asking about...

I was taking pictures of the wiring and while i was there inspecting them, the booster pump kicked on again for no reason. Because the wiring is a bit messy, i'm going to lay it out in writing too so you can follow the picture. the top section behind the buttons was also a little messy and hard...

So I went to the gym this morning from 8am to 10am. When I got home, I just checked the app to make sure the booster pump hadn't started up again. Somehow the booster pump was on but the pool pump was off. I checked the 'history' section which showed that the pump shut off at ~8:25 this morning...

And:

Thanks, I played around with things some more to test out settings. I will install ScreenLogic on my computer so I can show you those pages you want. but that will probably be tomorrow. I also sent my pool guy an email asking about switching to the Intelliflo pump instead...we'll see what he...

Yeah, it's partially my fault that the automated system isn't automated. We planned on just a few things and then he made some suggestions that sounded nice so we said yes, and I just assumed they'd work together since they're all Pentair. I just didn't do my research ahead of time and it is way...

You can ignore #5. I went through the boxes of 'garbage' and found the instruction manual for the pump, so I see I can schedule each button and times for it to run to make my schedule. Presumably I can time this with my booster pump, just not sure if I can do anything with it through the App yet.

Oddly, I have been running my SWG at 70% for 9 hours a day and it has kept my FC steady. I just tried putting things in the app (0 current, 3.5 target) with the 24 hour run time and it says I should run it at 66% to get that much chlorine. That doesn't seem to add up.

I just updated my pool hardware and plumbing this week and I have some questions that hopefully someone can answer. The pool company that replaced the stuff had a few suggestions but I figured I'd get the opinions here to make sure they pan out with what he said (or not). 1. I got a Pentair...

So for instance set my current FC to 0, set my target to 3.5, and use that suggested %, making any adjustments as needed? That makes sense, I just didn't know there was a '3-4 ppm' loss to use as my baseline.