Search results

Chris, Thanks for the reply. My setup is probably 12 years old give or take, and I live in Southern California. As far as I know, there are no obstructions or bubbles. I guess I'm trying to estimate the improvement in functional, not "rated" efficiency between these two heaters. A quick...

I have an in-ground spa but no pool in my current house. Came with all Pentair equipment, with a MiniMax NT heater. Takes quite a while to heat the spa. Of particular note is that my heater is a LONG ways way from the spa itself. I have been considering swapping this older heater for...

I replaced the bulb in my spa about 1 year ago and it is already burned out again. Have not checked it to see if it is water tight, but was when I replaced it last time, and it ran 1 year or so. Any recommendations on a bulb brand that will last longer next time I replace this, or other tips...

I have an inground spa build just like a pool (pumps, heater, etc) but just a spa. It has a built in light -- looks to be something like a Pentair Aqualight with a "normal" looking bulb inside. 120V. I'd like to place this with an LED bulb, but not sure what will work in this fixture, good...

I'm actually looking to see if I could repurpose an filtration system for a modest sized above ground pool for a large roman style fountain that I have in my new home. The fountain holds about 800 gal of water, and didn't come with a filtration system built in. It collects debris, some algae...

Interesting enough... The system has Goldline / Hayward controls, and older pentair pumps, which seem to work, so if Pentair are good pumps (had them on my old pool), why not?

Looking at the remote unit -- says SW version 2.41. I'd have to go out into the dark to see the main unit. When you say "which controls do I have", what should I be looking for? - jeff

I'm the new owner of a home with an in-ground spa, no pool. Older Pentair pumps and heater, some which are leaking slightly. Thinking of an overhaul for energy efficiency to new pumps and a new gas heater. I see Raypak is highly recommended on the heater. Why Raypak? What pumps should I...

I'm in drought stricken So Cal. If only we had water :). I've tried everything to avoid drain / refill, but really struggling with what seems as metals and I've added sequestrant and can't seem to safely add chlorine without causing the pool to turn an iron brown color. CH == calcium, right...

Looks like its gotten to where a drain / refill is going to be necessary after years of not doing so. Too much calcium and other stuff that just has to go. I didn't do the initial startup when we put the pool in, and I've since become a BBB follower. So the question is, what is the right...

I've tried to avoid phosphate containing sequestrant and instead using non-phosphate ones. Possible with those to achieve the same? I have a pool with a lot of organic material anyways, so I try and keep the phosphates in check to avoid algae (though I know that view is not entirely popular on...

Folks -- ascorbic acid treatment went great. Iron stains lifted like magic. So I used Poly60 to hold off algae and that went okay. So I started adding Chlorine back and the pool turned iron yellow/brown. So I added a modest amount of ascorbic acid back to the pool and bang, it went away...

Overnight loss test looks good. I ran the AM test twice and got within 1 drop each time. My cell is going into its fifth year, but is way oversized for the size of the pool -- IC40 on a 15K gal pool, so I usually run it say around 25-30% depending on the time year, sometimes much less...

Guys, My SWG (Pentair) recommends CYA 75 or greater, so shocking is super tough with CL only. I have some Bromine, and some poly60. If I do need to shock (will do a drop test tonight), can I shock with a combo pack of these things? If so, how high is high enough? Drop test is funky after...

CYA levels are plenty high at least 80. No scaling to speak of on the plates. Worth trying to calibrate the cell if that is possible? Maybe I really have some latent algae problem I've not detected?

Folks, I keep a log of my pool for comparison year over year. This year so far I've had to run my SWG at a setting quite a bit higher than last year (but our weather has been weird too). There are some differences and I'm wondering if that is playing into things. Last time I did an overnight...

I've read the pool school recommendation on water balance for SWG pools, and it says TA of 60-80 is very important, but does not say why. Can someone explain? Further, I have a pentair IC-40 SWG, and my salt level ended running a bit high, the SWG complains it is high (but often that reading...

Lot 2071A

It is clear as water, colorless.

I recently broke out a new vial of this reagent. Now I'm suspecting that it is possibly bad because my CC numbers have been uncharacteristically low (more or less zero when usually I run about 0.5-1 due to so many leaves that fall into my pool). Is it possible that this reagent is bad, or am I...

Okay, sounds reasonable. What would you consider "some extra" chlorine? 1ppm? 2ppm? -- Jeff

Let's say that I master the BBB method at some point and have my pool dialed into 5-6ppm FC as I should. Now, how do I account for big pool parties, the 6 kids from up the street crashing the pool on some random hot afternoon? I've got a SWG, so nothing happens too fast. Should I just add a...

I had made the assumption that I should run my waterfalls daily in order to flush them and make sure algae can't get a foothold. Now I'm wondering if I should do that at all. Seems like maybe it is pushing any algae I might have into my pool on a daily basis and providing nice, oxygen rich...

Sounds like me! I had the pool at 35 ppm to shock it at opening (overshot a bit). It took like 2 weeks to drop into the 9ppm range, then I switched my SWG back on and hovered around 5.5, that is when I got into trouble. I keep hearing that maybe I didn't finish the shock the first time, but I...

Thanks for the encouragement! I agree -- not enough FC or letting latent algae get out of control. Trying to understand recommended FC levels against what seems to work in my pool which is +1 or +2 ppm from the tables and trying to see if for my pool that is "normal" or if I really have an...

Sure, I get that. I agree I shouldn't need it -- which is why I'm trying to debug why I've been unable to 100% lick my algae issues, when they appear to go away for weeks and then return all of a sudden :oops: . I'd really rather understand with regard to shocking and algae what I'm doing...

You've probably seen my other post about algae coming back. I'm really trying to understand what I didn't follow with the last time I shocked. I had very high sustained FC levels, brushed, pool looked great, was that way for 2-3 weeks before it started getting really hot, FC never dropped...

I've got a SWG pool and been having problems with a bit of algae creeping back in when FC levels fall to "recommended" levels. Even though I've got a SWG pool, any harm at running at slightly higher "bleach" levels? That would mean more like FC of 6-7 rather than 5-6. - Jeff

I'm going to do a bit more than 1 turn for a bit and see if that helps. I've got a SWG so running the pool at night means my drop test is no good unless I turn off the SWG. Do you generally recommend this? - Jeff

Do the phosphate tests only act on certain types, like fertilizer derived ones? Seems like algae since it failed a drop test two nights ago and so I kept the FC levels high yesterday and it looks fantastic. Drop test last night was inconclusive since the levels showed it went up by 0.5ppm...