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Hi everyone! I have a raypak 206A that has been operating pretty constant since we purchased this house about 4 years ago. We're not sure of the age of the heater or the pool (house was foreclosed), but we're experiencing an issue where the heater goes off within a couple minutes of firing up...

One more update...less than 10 minutes later, the red flow light came on and chlorine production stopped once again. I would have to think I have a faulty flow switch, and will be using 8.75% bleach to shock until I can get a new switch installed.

Sorry for the delayed response, as it will be very apparent what the initial issue was: I took a reading from the return, and got zero FC. When walking back to the pool, I noticed I had flashing green and red flashing lights on my IC40, and the flow indicator was red. I shut down the system...

I am running tests and will post momentarily. Thanks everyone!

For the past several days I have been taking FC and CC values using the drop method, and I am showing zero for FC AND CC values. I have all green indicators on my IC40, and have pushed to 100% chlorine output with no change. The odd thing is the pool continues to stay clear with no sign of...

Thanks everyone! As a way of attempting to manage the situation without going to full shock, I did bump the SWG to full (I have an IC40 for a 25,000 gallon pool), and added 2 gallons of 8.25% bleach (to help raise the FC quicker). It has been holding steady at 7 all day, and I can tell you...

Long story short, we had a huge torrential rain last weekend that caused my pool water to rise so much that the skimmers closed, and the pump shut off, thinking there was a blockage. We ended up with a ton of dirt in the pool that we cleaned, and swam all week in the pool. When I got home...

Hey everyone...I am certain this question goes beyond a lot of the forum content, but being the fact that I now have a variable speed pump installed, I started to wonder the heating efficiency of water at various flow rates, and whether a heater can be more effective by heating water more...

...sometimes the obvious answer is the most "un-obvious". We completely turned off the SWG this morning and will keep an eye on the numbers. Thanks for assuring my sanity!

We have gotten the CY finally above 60, and our PH is holding at 7.5, even though our TA is still at 160. We turned on the SWG 2 nights ago, and at first saw our FC raise from 3 to 5. I turned production down to 20% on the SWG, but testing last night showed Ph holding, CYA at 60 and FC was now...

If you pour your test sample all the way to the top of and can still see the dot, it means you have very little (or no) CYA. You will want to refer to the pool school for an idea based on your circumstances on what CYA you should be shooting for, and then start getting a gameplan through the...

Thanks everyone. As part of my "A" personality, I try to strive for exactness, and heaven help me when it comes to being given a set of data points. :hammer: I do appreciate all the feedback, and will learn how to relax a bit with some of the data.

Assuming the CAyA test is being done correctly, then according to the chart, you shock level should be 10. You didn't mention before what condition the water was in, but you had hinted that you were itching to swim today, which I take it to mean that the pool had been properly shocked, (which...

Hey everybody. First off, here are my last set of numbers, taken with a TF-100 kit, just about 30 minutes ago: TA 210 CA 160 CYA 58 Ph 7 FC 8 CC .5 I want it verify my thoughts with the board regarding how to bring down the TA and keep the PH here it should be. Because the two are linked...

We're you able to test the CYA level last night? As you can see on the CYA chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock if you have a CYA of 50, then you are right on target with a FC of 20, but if your CYA was either higher or lower, you could be signifintly off on...

Just to clarify, the PH is 7.5 and not 8.5. The 8.5 relates to my FC level. I have the TF--00 test kit. Because this is a SWG, I would like to raise the PH up to about 7.8, but I would be more happy with getting the TA down first, along with raising the CYA. Ill keep ya posted in case things...

Hey all. I am through the shocking process and now bringing my FC level down to maintenance levels. I have been in the process over the past several days of raising the CYA through the pantyhose method, but it is going slowly. Here's my results as I just tested: CYA 45 PH 7.5 FC 8.5 CC 1...

It seems odd to me. There is a 1 1/2" line that T's off right before it goes to the returns, and then has an adapter that looks like it converts down to 3/4"' to enter the pump, and then coming off the pump it converts back to 1 1/2". My theory is since I'm replumbing the pad to 2" is to use a...

Hi all. I have just converted over to a robotic system, leaving my pressure-side unit at this point an antiquated . I am reworking the remainder of the pad this weekend, and will be converting the rest over to 2" (including the section that "T's" off the return line and goes to the pump...

Speaking from first-hand experience with my debut pool opening, the test kit is going to be crucial to you getting the water clear. There is a great sticky about how to go through the process of converting a sickly-looking pool to a blue oasis, but you will want to conduct frequent (30 minute)...

There is no doubt that I find myself over-thinking every aspect. Sometimes I feel as though I am in the mindset of a chemist getting an exact number for everything, and worrying over the smallest thing, even though as so many of the stickies mention that "we're not building rockets here". I am...

Hey all. Part of my rationale of getting an intelliflo VS +SVRS was to save on my energy costs by running the pump at a lower RPM. I have a 18x36 IG with 2 skimmers and 1 main drain, all running 1.5" to the pad, where I have converted to 2" right before the valve. I have a Sta-Rite DE filter...

Ling story short, we bought a house where the pool hadn't been opened in 2 years. Everything is relatively going well except a good portion of the winter cover hooks appear to be stuck, and I can't turn them back down. It looks to be a 1/4" hex wrench. Does anybody have a solution that has...

This is why I come to the forum instead of relying on the "experts". I was explicitly told to make sure I run in waste mode so it bypasses the filter. Thanks again to all of you. I'm S-L-O-W-L-Y becoming much more comfortable as a new pool owner. :cheers:

Hi all. Im almost through the shocking process, and spending a lot of time vacuuming and then subsequently running the hose all afternoon to fill the water level back. Is there any robotic cleaner out there that is capable of dealing with copious amounts of dead algae on the pool floor? Thanks!

I'm in the final stages of the shocking process, where I have a slight amount of algae left to kill off before getting into "phase 2" where I will be introducing the salt into the pool and powering up my IC40. At times I believe I'm "over thinking" the process, but when should I start cutting...

Hi all! I'm in day 3 of the shocking process, starting with 0 TC and a CYA of 40. I have been successful at managing the TC level to be at shock level (16 is target number), but with all the algae I'm killing off, it is causing me to back wash my DE several times a day, which has lowered the...

Nope. There is no such handle on my unit, so I'll be the nice guy and give no love taps to my unit. I am finding that my pump with it's lovely SVRS will automatically shut off if the filter gets too clogged. It's slightly an annoyance, since it is still requiring backwashing every couple of...