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Even though the air would be blowing out of the returns, wouldn’t -some- water still get in while I’m trying to cap it? Should I use any special kind of cap if it’s submerged? What about water level relative to skimmer. Should I still be below skimmer, so no water remains in it? with this...

I’m warming up to this idea but I’m still not putting together the pieces. How would I achieve this? Last year I drained water, and blew from my skimmer. I air locked my main drain, and it was easy to know I got all the water out of my jets since they were above the water line. If I don’t...

Closing Pool in Cleveland Ohio You guys helped me out a lot last year, thank you. Last years post above.. I have auto cover. Is it necessary for me to drain below the return jets? I have a cyclone blower, and I’m wondering if I can fully blow those out without draining them. Thanks!!

Hi all, I have a Pentair offline chlorinator, and I want to decommission it. Unfortunately the tubes are all dry rotted, I broke the actual unit, and I want to see if there’s a quick way to cap / plug these. Or do I need to think about replacing the PVC?

Working great! Thank you. Couple more questions: Should I close all valves to returns, from skimmer, etc? When I opened the pool, only the drain valve was shut and the rest were open. Was I supposed to blow with the heater/filter caps off?

Thank you so much for the detailed reply. So you recommend doing all the blowing poolside, from the skimmer? Got it. When you say add the antifreeze to each line, I assume you mean into the skimmer, and into the return lines? (Accessed after the heater)?

-25K gallon -In ground -Vinyl liner -Raypak heater -Hayward Cartridge Filter -1 skimmer, 1 drain -2 return jets -Cyclone blower (3hp) -Automatic rolling cover Hello all - I need some sanity checks like everyone else on closing my pool. Mainly looking for advice on -where- to blow out...

Very true. I’ve started trying to understand rotating my water in an 8 hour period, but the tape measure for head room will need to wait until tomorrow to validate these settings. Optimization tomorrow! That might warrant a new post… :) In the mean time, here are my takeaways from anyone...

Relieving the pressure and disconnecting the piping from the filter was the key point I needed. Managed to use all existing plumbing. We’re rocking and rolling. Thank you all, this is my first post in this community and you guys have been awesome. I hope to help some future newbies like...

Yes they do match up. I stayed in the Hayward super pump family for that reason to try and make this easier. It came with a 2” to 1.5” bushing reducer. I’m just a bit confused with this setup on the best route for where to cut, where to add couplings/unions/pipe.

Alright guys, new pump is here. Home stretch. Previous comment was made about updating my unions. Can I get some guidance on removing and replacing this? Where should I cut and what should I plan to replace exactly?

Exactly my plan! Thank you. I’ll get that signature updated!

No salt chlorinator, and yep I have a heater.

Yes I am. Thank you for the tip. I was anticipating I could leave the wiring as is and just make sure the lever is always in the on position. But should I do something different?

I’m open for suggestions for sure. Honestly I got attached to this after using the Hayward tool that says replace my pump, and found this model.

Will it be okay to use the W3SP2603VSP with my existing mechanical timer? I will have the on / off pegs out.

Thanks Jim, I’ll head to the pool store to look for some unions. I don’t think this comes with any. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for? Not sure how you could tell this was a Home Depot special :)

You guys are good. I measured a few spots and it was a hair under 2” but you’re right, the elbow is marked 1.5”. Lesson learned. The VS pump seems to advertise itself as 1.5”, but I see comments it’s 2” and has adapters to 1.5”. Is that a problem/risk for a leak?