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Thanks. I will measure after the first bucket and see what range I am in and shoot for 50+

Thanks edited my post to say including shipping, it was cheaper for me in case it helps anyone else.

Found this listing on Amazon, cheaper for me when including shipping. 55 lb Pail of Granular Boric Acid Amazon.com

Oh thanks for the info! I thought I read another thread that TA has to be lowered first.

I have it set to 38K in pool math, but yes it I did probably over estimate. The shallow end is 3 ft and deep end is 8ft. I'll start off with one 55lb bucket and see where the measurement lands, after I bring my TA down.

I used the outdoor spigot next to the fill valve for the fill watrer test and kitchen sink faucet for the softener test. Just tried water from the RO filter and it's only 10, but that would be a lot of water wasted to fill with that.

No borates in my pool. Going to need 91lbs to bring it up to 50!

I do have a house water softener also, but looks like it doesn't help with TA as the measurement was the same.

Going to see if I can buy MA in bulk or something, going to need a lot! Thank you all for the help!

Just took a new set of tests this morning: Pool: TA: 120 CH: 450 pH: 7.4 FC: 4 (looks like scaling is happening already happening and need to bump up the %) Fill Water: TA: 240 CH: 125 (guess CH isn't the problem after all, thought it would be much higher) pH: 8.0 Getting my borate test...

I thought target for CH is lower? Good to know through. I’m spending so much on MA this year 😂

Good point, didn’t think about testing that since I don’t have to refill that often.

I have a solar heater and I think highest is temps get to maybe 95. As long as I keep pH around 7.2 it seems to be okay, but hard to keep it there for long.

Thanks. I am not sure if previous owner put any borates, I think they may have as I didn’t have any issues when I first took over the house as all the other measurements are consistent with previous years. I’ve tried to lower TA but it seems to always creep back up. Should TA lower with...

Not sure why but this season my SWG has been scaling very quickly. I assume its due to my CSI tending positive quickly because my CH is high and my fill water is hard. This was my plan to try to slow it down, but not sure what the best/cheapest way to do it. - Keep PH at 7.2 to keep CSI...

Where are you going to order from instead? Mine is probably going to die soon and was trying to see what the best options were.

Thank you. Going to wait for my FC to drop so I can see if I can do a 10mL sample with the old bottle to compare. Passed OCLT so looks like I am out of the woods for now, although did have 0.5 CC but FC remained at 16.

I started SLAM a few days ago, but because I was low on R0871 I was just doing 5mL samples as I saw suggested in a few other threads. Maybe I didn't do it right, but looks like the results may have been wrong or the reagent is bad. The bottle from the TFT kit didn't have an expiration date...

Oh thanks for the picture, that looks like it would probably fit in my system as well. This is what I currently have and can't take it apart at all. I tried rinsing it out but didn't seem to help. Looks like with this new configuration I am draining most of the water from the collectors, but...

Thanks! Once I got up the roof it was more obvious what you meant, so I went and and switched the end cap and VRV around. The clamp around the VRV was loose, so that was the leak I was seeing as water was dripping from the seal. Now that I have the VRV over on the supply side and lower on the...

I’ll have to check that when I get on the roof. I don’t see anywhere on the other side where I could easily add in the VRV, without cutting the supply pipe which I was hoping to avoid (at least on the roof)

Don’t think I’d be able to easily move it as it’s currently plumbed up like this. I guess I could extend where the spigot is and add some pipe to tee in the VRV.

Thanks for the suggestion! Would a good place be to put it under the eave on the supply side going up toward the roof? It probably won’t end up being under the eave if I put it in the middle of that section though. Also does the direction of the valve matter? Should it pointing up, down or...

I guess Fafco had their own mounting system. This is what it looks like, so to use that type I would need to buy one of their couplers so I could use standard PVC. Sungrabber Vacuum Relief Valve Fafco - Solar Swimming Pool Heating Panels - Amazon.com : Sungrabber Vacuum Relief Valve Fafco -...

Got mine up to 78 with the solar running, but my wife and kids are too spoiled and it was still too cold. I thought it was nice since it was so hot out, but another hot day tomorrow so maybe I can get it up a little more. I'll leave it off after tomorrow since it is going to cool down quite a...

Not sure I trust myself doing all of that plumbing on the roof, but good to know. After taking a closer look it looks like the VRV has a small leak so probably going to have to replace it. Guess I’ll hop on the roof next week when it’s cooler to take a closer look.

I took apart the valve and verified it is a Jandy one. There is no hole in the diverter and appears to be the Neverlube version. I couldn’t find a drain down valve by Jandy and assume the Pentair one won’t fit, so drilling a hole seems to be the best option here. I actually added the Flovis to...